Balaton bike circuit: route, rest areas, service columns, suggested segmentation

Siófok–Alsóörs: The eastern basin of Lake Balaton

• Distance: 43.3 km
• Elevation gain: 357 m
• Start point: Siófok train station
• End point: Alsóörs train station

Starting from the foot of the Baross Bridge in Siófok – roughly equidistant from the boat and the train station – we set out on the Balaton bike circle. We begin the lake circuit heading east, tuning into the tour first through the flat streets of the southern shore, then climbing up to the characteristic high shore of the eastern basin. We will have a unique view from several places; a heads-up that it will be hard to leave these spots. Returning to the shore, a colorful and varied route awaits us with forests, reeds, and charming holiday home areas.

We cycle through the first 10 km of our route along the straight streets of Siófok, passing by the hotels of the Golden Shore and newly built apartment buildings, old villas, and lakeside holiday homes. The carefree sightseeing is only interrupted by the fact that although the traffic is low here, the bike circle rides on roads shared with cars, so we need to pay more attention to our feet – and wheels.

The monotony is broken by a short but steep climb leading to the Balatonvilágos train station. From here, new perspectives open up as we arrive at one of the high shores of the lake's eastern corner, from where we can overlook the eastern basin, observing from afar the route still ahead. We follow the promenade along the high shore for a long stretch and it is worth stopping a little later at Balatonaliga’s high shore, part of Balatonvilágos. The promenade named after István Csók is the highest point here, about 30 meters above the lakeside holiday homes. In addition to the panorama, love locks, a romantic small bridge, and an inviting grassy park also tempt a stop.

After crossing a couple of turns past Balatonaliga train station, we turn onto one of the most atmospheric streets of the section, Sirály Street. On the right side, tidy small holiday homes line up, while on the left, many empty or undeveloped lots offer a splendid view of the lake spreading below us.

Crossing road 71, we reach Balatonakarattya, which we traverse almost entirely along the straight Árpád Street. Initially, we must overcome a long climb, then accelerate down a long descent towards a sharp curve, from where we join the main road.

Unfortunately, the bike circle does not pass through the most beautiful spot of Balatonakarattya, but if we turn into any side street from Árpád Street to reach Kisfaludy promenade, we won’t regret it. Here can be found the most beautiful of the discovered high shores: the endless water mass of Lake Balaton spreads before us lengthwise, while we can view both the northern and southern shores up to the Tihany Peninsula. The steep cliff is commonly called loess wall in everyday language, and its collapsibility and porosity hint at that, but only a few tens of centimeters of its surface layer are covered by loess. The high shores accompanying the lake’s eastern basin (observable from Fonyód to Tihany) actually consist of sedimented debris deposits of the former Pannonian Lake, and the steep collapses were shaped by the yet unregulated wave action of the lake and landslides.

At the bottom of the slope, we are already cycling in Balatonkenese, descending again to the shore level. The road leads through a quiet, low-traffic holiday home area’s sleepy streets, though in season large pedestrian and car traffic awaits in front of the beach.

We leave the village behind along a cool, atmospheric forest section even in summer, then arrive at Balatonfűzfő, the northeastern 'bend' of the lake. From here, the proportion of the separate bike path to the marked bike lane on the road will change in favor of the former – the bike circle features the separated bike path more characteristically on the northern shore.

The Fűzfő Bay separates us from the lake by a dense reed bed, but fortunately several lakeside promenades have been created; detour loops are marked by signs. The bike path itself eventually turns into the reeds (this excellent route was established in 2016, but the old route through the settlement was retained). A wonderful, nature-close section begins with rest areas, a fitness park, a pump track, and even a wooden boardwalk from where we can peek out over the bay from the reeds. Crossing a bridge over a hidden small harbor, we return to the houses, then head directly to road 71. We only depart from the road upon reaching Balatonalmádi, where numerous rest opportunities can be found in and around the modern sculpture-filled Saint Elizabeth Park. After Káptalanfüred, we again join road 71 to cross through nearby Alsóörs, where the section ends at the beach buffet row after crossing the railway tracks.

Alsóörs–Révfülöp: The roller coaster on the northern shore

• Distance: 42 km
• Elevation gain: 303 m
• Start point: Alsóörs train station
• End point: Révfülöp train station

This section passes through many settlements, and the bike path mostly leads into the cozy streets of lakeside resort areas. Between the settlements, it generally runs parallel to the main road, so we must continuously cycle on a roller coaster of elevations. Don’t expect serious climbs; rather, elongated ascents and descents alternate, while the idyllic Balaton landscape and proximity to the shore create an inimitable atmosphere along the route.

From the bustling lakeside center of Alsóörs, we cycle along a wide, low-traffic service road to the well-equipped Paloznak rest area. From here, we ride on a separate bike path to Csopak, where we must cycle along the busiest stretch, in front of the beach, sharing with pedestrians and cars. After a pleasant short forest section, we reach the main road again, then upon reaching Balatonfüred, we return to the lakeside. The bike path runs along Balaton’s busiest promenade, Tagore promenade – true, in a separated lane, but caution is needed for pedestrians crossing ahead and events in summer when cyclists can only move through pushing their bikes.

After leaving Balatonfüred’s dense center, we head to Tihany on one of the oldest sections of the Balaton bike path. On the narrow and bumpy road, we must avoid the small roundels once built for breakwaters. Signposts indicate a fork at the 'entrance' to the Tihany Peninsula: here we can detour towards the Tihany ferry along the bike path running by the peninsula’s shore. Staying on the bike circle, we continue towards Aszófő, from where a perfect quality, wide bike path leads all the way to Örvényes. The silhouette of the peninsula emerges behind the wildflower meadows on the lake side, and on the right, the hilly landscape of the Balaton Uplands attracts our gaze: the beautiful view makes us forget that we are cycling next to the main road.

At Örvényes, we cross to the other side of the road, then reach Balatonudvar. It is worth stopping briefly at the cemetery, where we find special heart-shaped tombstones. We cross the settlement through quiet streets before climbing back to the main road. It’s no surprise that we enter Balatonakali on a long descent; then staying on the nearer side of the tracks, we pass the charming old village and its main square before weaving back onto the main road.

We cycle extensively towards Zánka, while the half-cut conical shape of the easily recognizable Hegyestű rises on the right-hand side in the distance, then we arrive at Zánka on a scheduled descent.

Leaving the beach, we cycle through a shady grove of ivy-covered trees before turning our back on the shore and climbing steeply up to the Virágos hill resort at Balatonszepezd. We pass through the settlement at this height, paying close attention to signs due to frequent changes in direction. At the western edge of Szepezd, we descend back to the main road, which we leave at Révfülöp towards the shore – don’t miss visiting the nearby ruins of the Fülöpi church just a few meters from the bike path! Our section ends a few meters later at the train station, but the nearby center and harbor offer many restaurants for tired cyclists.

Révfülöp–Keszthely: In front of the magnificent witness hills

• Distance: 40.8 km
• Elevation gain: 295 m
• Start point: Révfülöp train station
• End point: Keszthely train station

One of the most beautiful and varied sections, winding on the edge of the Balaton Uplands and offering splendid views of the proud stones of the Tapolca Basin, the witness hills, starting at Révfülöp train station. If we want to spend more time in the area and are willing to undertake some detours lasting even full days, here are the most options: countless smaller and larger loops branch north from the main bike path. These are perfect for exploring the Balaton Uplands by bike, but expect significant elevation changes in some places.

Révfülöp in summer is a bustling center; near the boat station, not only many restaurants lie along our path but also the Rose Garden overlooking the lake, an excellent selfie spot with service columns and bike racks available. From here, we detour along the main road further from the shore to Pálköve, part of the administrative area of Kővágóörs. Before Balatonrendes and after crossing the perfectly smooth, highway-like asphalt crossing the railway, observe on the left one of the few remaining natural alder groves in the area! We pass by the World War memorial at Ábrahámhegy, and at Badacsonytomaj beside the Szent Imre Church, also known as the basalt church. A smaller climb awaits us here as the bike path runs along the Roman road at the foot of Badacsony, not by the shore. To reach the restaurants near the harbor, we must detour from the main path, but in return, we can immerse ourselves closely in the atmosphere of the most famous witness hill, where dozens of wine taverns await.

At Szigliget, we get further from the shore but cycle right at the foot of the castle hill. With the somber walls of the medieval fortress behind us, we glide on another perfectly smooth section to Balatonederics, where we turn south. Several stops are worth it here to look back at the increasingly distant witness hills, each showing itself from a slightly different angle; adding a small detour is worth it to the Balatongyörök Szépkilátó lookout, an unmissable panoramic spot. Mainly the castle of Szigliget and the characteristic hump of Gulács offer a unique view from here. Next to the Szépkilátó, there are several restaurants and buffets on both sides of the paved road.

The bike path leads down to the shore beforehand, opening one of the most beautiful parts of this section. Before the Balatongyörök train station, at one of the covered cyclists' rest areas, a particularly picturesque lakeside viewpoint awaits: beside the tiny Soós Bay wooden elder tree standing guard in the water, a narrow window opens toward Badacsony through the reeds swaying in the wind. After this, we cycle mostly close to the lake all the way to Keszthely. If we have the energy, before Vonyarcvashegy, we cycle up to the scenic chapel on St. Michael Hill, then enjoy the lakeside atmosphere gliding on good-quality asphalt! At Alsógyenes, opposite the railway, the slender tower of the Carmelite church in Keszthely already appears; from here, after circling the yacht harbor and passing the Balaton Bike 365 cycling facility (Energia Square), we glide into Keszthely train station, from where the city center and Festetics Palace are easily reachable.

Keszthely–Balatonboglár: From the lung of Balaton to the escaped witness hills

• Total distance: 41.2 km
• Elevation gain: 147 m
• Start point: Keszthely train station
• End point: Balatonboglár train station

We leave Keszthely, the capital of Balaton, along the shaded tree-lined Erzsébet Park established by one of the counts Festetics. From here, our journey has two completely different characters. To Balatonberény, we cycle embraced by nature, through reeds, groves, and woods. This is the edge of the Kis-Balaton marshy area, also known as the lung of Balaton, a protected area of the Balaton Uplands National Park, where the dense reeds of the Zala River flowing into the lake filter the Balaton water. Additionally, we cycle entirely on protected bike paths, frequently interspersed with cyclist rest areas harmonizing with the landscape.

We pass the formerly inhabited Fenékpuszta, where a short detour to the left from the bike path leads to the bird rescue and ringing station. A little further on, we can take a detour to the ruins of a Roman fortress, Valcum Castrum. We climb over the Zala River on a top-quality bike path bridge, then at the fork, turn left, pass under the highway, and set off along the southern shore of the lake.

We reach Balatonberény on a shaded plane tree avenue, after which the built environment dominates instead of the natural one. The advantage of inhabited areas is that we find numerous buffets and bike repair shops specialized for cyclists along the route. Occasionally, it's worth taking a left detour to the shore to admire the witness hills lined up opposite us. The best spot for this in Balatonberény is the town’s small but beautiful park in the outer suburbs of Hungarian expatriates, offering a wonderful view. A bit further on, we can discover the Csicsergő Island protruding into the Balaton, surrounded by reeds, giving a taste of how the Balaton landscape looked before regulation.

Sometimes we cycle on the sidewalk, other times on less busy roads. At Balatonmáriafürdő, it is worth glancing at the charming harbor before proceeding among holiday homes. From here, service columns appear, and we find numerous places with water supply, toilets, covered rest areas, and bike racks.

At Balatonfenyves, it is worth taking a lap in the bike-friendly harbor. At the narrow-gauge train (GV) terminus, we can even board the narrow-gauge train with our bicycle, which eagerly rattles towards Csisztagygfürdő or Somogyszentpál. The park in front of the town hall tempts with carved statues, a drinking fountain, and a smart bench where we can even charge our phone.

From Bélatelep, now merged with Fonyód and once an elite resort area, we can already glimpse the 'humps' of Fonyód, whose origin is similar to the witness hills decorating the opposite shore of the lake. At their base, the highway, bike path, and railway are squeezed to the shore, but a narrow ribbon is still reserved for beachgoers and anglers alike. In Fonyód, it is worth taking a walk on the pier, where the lookout tower of Sipos Hill is clearly visible. Moreover, if we have enough strength, we can take a short trip exploring the tower itself, visiting the romantic promenade adorned with reform-era villas along the Fonyód high shore.

We cycle further along the long Árpád shore open-air beach, parallel to the running track crossing the green lawn with its red stripe. At Fonyódliget, the colorful yurts of the busy Elizabeth camp are lined up along our path, then we pass the Nagyboldogasszony Chapel of Jankovich estate before reaching Balatonboglár train station.

Balatonboglár–Siófok: Horizontally along the southern shore

• Distance: 36.9 km
• Elevation gain: 125 m
• Start point: Balatonboglár train station
• End point: Siófok train station

This section, connecting the chain of contiguous settlements from Balatonboglár to Siófok on the southern shore of Lake Balaton, winds entirely on flat terrain without any significant elevation gain. In the area of Balatonboglár, we have to share the asphalt with cars. It is worth dropping by the bike-friendly Platán beach near the harbor, visiting the park planted with colorful flowers hiding the Tornászlány statue and admiring the Csavargőzös, a historic steamboat built in 1872 (inside we can learn about the history of steam boating on Lake Balaton). A small climb allows us to reach the Xantus János spherical lookout and the interactive 'high trail' opened in summer 2023, consisting of a canopy walkway, a boardwalk, and a lookout terrace. If we need some adrenaline, we can compensate at the nearby bob track.

Balatonlelle center is crossed by a magnificent bike path. Riding alongside the tracks on the lake side, shaded by trees on a straight road, signs warn of detours to various beaches. Crossing over the Tetves Creek, we enter Balatonszemes territory. We again join the shore, then cross a hardwood grove where the built environment briefly disappears. After leaving the beach, we cross through the town center before winding along the paved bike path with huge sycamore tree trunks in Fenyves Park.

At Balatonszárszó, it is worth taking a detour to the Lakeside Park to closely examine the clever memorial of Attila József; details are key. Across the railway on the street named after him is also his memorial house. Arriving at Balatonföldvár, a row of plane trees provides shade to the harbor, where the boat station reception building and Kvassay promenade can be seen. With a short detour across the tracks, we can visit the unmistakably shaped Shipping History Visitor Center whose 'Árboca' functions as Lake Balaton's highest built lookout.

The protected bike path leads through a newer plane tree avenue bent by the constant wind to Szántód. After departing from the drinking fountain, we can take a detour from the end of Kisfaludy Street to a wooden lookout reachable on a boardwalk over the water. In the center, with another short detour, we can ride down to the ferry to marvel from the narrowest part of the lake at the picturesque panorama of the Tihany Peninsula – or even take a ferry to the other shore.

On a protected bike path through a green area, we cycle to Zamárdi, where along Margó Ede promenade we can pass the Heart of Balaton statue. In the increasingly dense tangle of houses, entering Siófok, the southern capital of the shore, we cross the Balaton draining Sió channel on the Baross Bridge. Turning left at the first opportunity, we can visit the boat station, Rose Garden, and the beach, or the water tower functioning also as a lookout on the other side of the train station.