Nagymaros – Nógrád (OKT-17)
As for landscape character perhaps it is Börzsöny that resembles the Carpathians the most. The caldera (collapsed magma chamber) of the giant volcano is easy to spot on satellite photos. Inside and outside the steep rim of the hollow there is the largest uninhabited and contiguous forest of Hungary.
Despite its small size Börzsöny grants a real mountain forest experience far from inhabited areas with varied rock formations. Exploring High Börzsöny or hiking to Csóványos involves lengthy ascents and elevation change requiring good physical condition. Mountain arrangement determines trail network as well. Trails converge at the highest altitude so discovering inner parts is a challenging hike if we plan to make day trips.
Each creek of the interior area leaves the mountain by feeding only Fekete Creek and the radial arrangement of creeks divided the mountain in a special way. Another specialty of Börzsöny is the unusual height of the ridgeline around the caldera, making the mountain seem higher than it really is (700-900 m) and creating an unusually extensive contiguous wilderness.
The trail sets off from the riverside village Nagymaros to climb Szent Mihály-hegy, the “fugitive” as geologically it belongs to Visegrád Mountains, although separated by the Danube. Julianus lookout tower grants a breathtaking view over the Danube hugging the mount. Then the trail continues to Törökmező and Kóspallag on the edge of the mountains. Past hikers’ lodge of Kisinóc the challenge to hike through Magas-Börzsöny begins. A lengthy ascent takes you to Nagy-Hideg-hegy with a hikers’ lodge on the barren top and the trail follows the rim of the caldera to the highest peak of the mountains, Csóványos (938 m).
Another lengthy ascend takes you to the eastern side and this section ends in Nógrád, at the train station right below the castle.
Author’s recommendation
- Stay overnight at the hikers’ lodge on Nagy-Hideg-hegy (Big Chilly Hill) and wake up in the morning in the middle of Börzsöny.
- Stay overnight in Kisinóci Turistaház (hikers’ lodge) near Kóspallag.
- Discover the Castle of Nógrád.
- Prepare with sufficient food and drink for a hike to Csóványos as no stores are available on the way except the hikers’ lodge on Nagy-hideg-hegy.
Recommended entries and exits
- Törökmező (near OKTPH_81): bus stop “Kismaros, Törökmezei turistaház bejárati út”
- Kóspallag (near OKTPH_82): bus stop “Kóspallag, Kisinóci turistaház” or “Kóspallag, templom”
Track types
Show elevation profileRest stops
Törökmező turistaházTóvik vendégház
Kisinóci Turistaház
Nagy-Hideg-hegyi Sí- és Túraközpont
Tips and hints
.Start
Destination
Turn-by-turn directions
Itinerary
Follow the Blue (K) marker all along the trip.
- Exit Nagymaros across Templom-völgy (Church Valley) and hike uphill to Hegyes-tető.
- Past Julianus lookout tower head towards the hikers’ lodge of Törökmező.
- A lengthy hike in the woods takes yout to Kóspallag.
- Hike from Kóspallag to the hikers’ lodge of Kisinóc.
- A lengthy ascent takes you to Nagy-Hideg-hegy.
- A one-hour-long ridgeline hike takes you to Csóványos.
- Ascend southeast from Csóványos to Fultán-kereszt (Fultán Cross).
- Cross Cseresnyés-völgy to reach Nógrád railway station.
Detailed description
Nagymaros – Hikers’ lodge of Törökmező
Set off from the train station (stamper at the platform) and passing a Gothic style church built in the 13th century the trail exits the village along Templom-völgy (Church Valley). Hike uphill along the narrow gorge to reach the ridge where the trail bends sharply right towards the peak. The fenced holes are abandoned mine shafts used to search for and extract metallic ore. After crossing Ürmös-rét the trail arrives at Julianus barát lookout tower on Hegyes-tető (482 m).
The bastion-like structure boasts a marvelous view over the Danube surrounded by mountains, such as Naszály near Vác, Visegrád Mountains on the other side of the Danube, Burda on the Slovakian side of Ipoly and Csóványos in the middle of Börzsöny.
Head steeply downhill from the peak towards Törökmező. The trail crosses a logging road more times and Köves-mező, which grants a view over the river and the Citadel of Visegrád. Crossing Csapás-rét (picnic spot) the trail arrives at Törökmező with a hikers’ lodge (stamper at the entrance of the restaurant).
Hikers’ lodge of Törökmező - Nagy-Hideg-hegy
Take your time to explore the springs behind the lodge. The trail descends to the valley and passes a cozy fishing pond. Ascending through a young forest you will reach the edge of Békás-rét. This is the last spot to enjoy a view over High Börzsöny before entering inside. Hike along and the trail soon enters Kóspallag on a paved road. Kóspallag is the youngest village in the mountains founded by Slovakian lumbers in the 18th century. Cross the village and the Calvary hill to enter the forest. In a few minutes the trail descend into a creek bed and leads to the hikers’ lodge of Kisinóc (stamper on the wooden pole at the pub).
Pass the lodge and the most exciting part of the section begins as the trail does not pass any inhabited areas until Nógrád. A lengthy ascent starts along a clearance (Inóci-vágás). A little stone cross commemorates a young skier, Ferenc Barna who died here in 1935. The trial changes from a narrow ridgeline to a rocky hillside track and arrive at the hikers’ lodge on Nagy-Hideg-hegy (865 m) on a forest road (stamper in the restaurant).
Nagy-Hideg-hegy – Csóványos
The grassy peak is surrounded by ski tracks and the clearances provide a view to various directions with mountains from previous and later sections of the Blue Trail. Check the logging track crossing the northern ski track at the top to perceive real dimensions of Börzsöny.
Head towards Csóványos, the highest peak of Börzsöny. The trail follows the rim of the caldera through an intact picturesque forest with varied rock formations. Check Hangyás-bérc and Szabó-kövek for the vista.
The trail passes the cliff of Korona-kő to climb to the peak of Csóványos (938 m). The lookout tower provides a stunning view over Börzsöny and beyond. Large areas of fallen trees are painful reminders of the devastation by glaze ice in 2014.
Csóványos – Nógrád
The trail dips suddenly from Csóványos and traverses a fabulous beech forest with mature trees along Fultán-vágás towards the ridge of Három-hárs. Continue along the valley of Szén Creek to reach the clearing of Foltán-kereszt (Foltán Cross commemorating a forester called János Foltán murdered by lumber thieves in the 19th century).
Exit the clearing to the south. Beware the logging road turns right while the trail turns left. Hike downhill along the ridge of Saj-kút-bérc into Cseresnyés-völgybe. Past a logging track the trail begins its last ascent to cross the border range of Börzsöny. Finally, you will arrive at pastures with a view over the volcanic peak of Nógrád with a castle on the top. Pass the old Jewish cemetery and the Calvary hill and enter the village along the railroad (stamper at the station on an information board).
Note
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
- Get off at Nagymaros-Visegrád train stop from Szob or Budapest, Nyugati Railway Station.
- Get off at bus stop “Visegrád, nagymarosi rév” from bus stop “Budapest, Újpest-Városkapu autóbusz-állomás” or Esztergom and take the ferry to Nagymaros.
- Get on at bus stop “Nógrád, vasútállomás” to reach Vác or Rétság.
Getting there
- In Nagymaros the trail sets off at the ferry port and passes through the underpass at Nagymaros-Visegrád train stop towards Börzsöny.
- Look for the markers at the level crossing of the train station in Nógrád.
Parking
- In Nagymaros, free of charge parking near Nagymaros-Visegrád train stop.
- In Nógrád, free of charge parking near the train station building.
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
- Hiking map of Börzsöny
Equipment
Basic gear: hiking boots, seasonable wear, drinking water, food. Use Természetjáró app. to navigate.
Statistics
- 27 Waypoints
- 27 Waypoints
Questions and answers
Rating
Photos from others