Tapolca – Badacsonytördemic (OKT-05)

Our hike starts from the northern Balaton railway junction at Tapolca train station, proceeding via Szent György Hill and Szigliget to the Badacsonytördemic-Szigliget train station. The Tapolca locomotive depot housed the iconic Nohab locomotive series in the second half of the 20th century, commemorated by a Nohab locomotive fragment embedded in the water tower's side. Locomotive M61 004 derailed and was irreparably damaged near Badacsonylábdihegy on June 4, 1999 – the recoverable part can be seen in Tapolca as a statue locomotive.

The Blue Trail stamp can be found on the terrace of the Lokomotív buffet next to the train station. From there, we approach the town center through the atmospheric park by the public cemetery along a tourist path marked with all four trail bands. The small town atmosphere of Tapolca instantly changes when following the K markings to arrive at the Mill Pond.

The lake, formed by damming a stream, has been inhabited for seven thousand years. The town's name means warm water, and a watermill operated here even in the Árpád era. Tapolca’s main square later remained here, and today the medieval houses surrounding the lake transform the area into one of the country's most unique places. Leaving the Mediterranean-style outdoor terraces of the eateries, we visit the mill building, erected around the 13th-14th century, then leave the small town through a park equipped with a stream and beautiful footbridges.

The marked blue path leads toward the Southern bypass road, which we must cross. Next, we walk the following two kilometers along the main road toward Kisapáti and Nemesgulács. The monotonous walk is uncomfortable due to traffic and the hot asphalt exposed to the sun, but striking witness hills surround us: to the left and ahead rise Csobáncs, Tóti Hill, and Gulács, while the horizon is dominated by the giant block of Szent György Hill. On the way, we cross the railway, then after about a kilometer, the path turns right.

The worse asphalt section of the stage is behind us. We can relax as vehicles at the foot of Szent György Hill run at much lower speed and frequency. The volcanic cone's flattened skirt is cultivated by viticulturists; as far as the eye can see, grape rows stretch out. It is no coincidence that only lower areas were replanted after the phylloxera disaster due to the lack of water necessary for spraying. The area is idyllic for numerous grape varieties, as the Bakony mountains to the north reduce the oceanic air masses from the Danube valley; hence the climate here is drier, with many sunny hours and humid air due to Lake Balaton. The volcanic-rock-based soil is also important.

The road becomes steeper, and its surface increasingly incomplete. By the dried-up Bogdán Well, we proceed on stairs and soon arrive at the Kaán Károly Mountain Lodge, reopened in spring 2025 after renovation.

The house can be booked online, and around it, there is a renovated, spacious resting area where we can take a breath. The Blue Trail stamp is in the window, and all four marked hiking trails converge again a hundred meters from the house. Benches, tables, and fire pits provide comfort for visitors. The originally thatched, porch-style, panoramic building was erected in 1934 by the Balaton Department of the Hungarian Carpathian Association and was the first tourist house around the lake.

Kaán Károly Mountain Lodge – Szigliget

After stamping and resting, it’s time to tackle the climb of the 415 m high Szent György Hill! Again, we climb stairs, ascending beside basalt organ pipes – luckily there is something to hold on to, as railings have been built next to the difficult steps. The 10-30 m high and 1.5-2 m diameter basalt columns were formed by cooling lava accumulated in the so-called „lava pond” during earlier volcanic activities. Cooling caused rock melt volume shrinkage, with cracking from the edges inward perpendicular to the cooling direction. The columnar jointing typical for basalt is also decisive in today's landscape. Cracks grow larger over time due to temperature changes and frost, forming separate columns. Although basalt organs are not rare (we can see them on Badacsony, Gulács, and Hegyes-tű slopes), those on Szent György Hill are perhaps the largest and most intact.

Climbing to the level of the organ tops, we reach two excellent viewpoints. To reach the Stone Gate viewpoint, turn right on the P marked trail some 50 meters, while the other leads in the opposite direction via an unmarked but very well-trodden path. Both locations offer views to the north and east, with Gulács as the primary attraction. We see the landscape stretching from Tapolca to Badacsony. Below, vineyards ripple, the trains of the Balaton railway creak further, behind them witness hills are visible, and between them, the Káli Basin can also be glimpsed.

The Blue Trail does not reach the Szent György Hill summit, but it is worth a detour of barely 300 meters! At the summit, there is a small resting place, and the panorama opens in new directions: we can see Szigliget, Lake Balaton, and the Keszthely Mountains. After the detours, return to the K marking, which starts descending through the southern and southwestern slopes of the hill’s forest. In one section, we walk together with the S and P marked trails, where they branch off, allowing more detour opportunities.

At the T-junction, following the S and P marks, we soon reach the Lion-headed Well – water trickles from the mouth of a lion carved into the 1901 fountain basin. This is our only water source on the hike, so it's worth making use of it. Locals also come here for water, and 1-2 cars might queue with a few empty plastic containers. Continuing along the S and P marks, we reach the beautifully maintained Lengyel Chapel.

Descending from the witness hill slopes, we arrive at the friendly village of Hegymagas. We walk perpendicular to the main road almost to the edge of the village, then turn left onto the bicycle path toward Szigliget. The second asphalted, sun-exposed part of the Blue Trail awaits, but at least it has relatively low traffic, so cars won’t hit us. Szigliget castle grows larger before us, but it’s also worth looking back because we can see the southwestern face of Szent György Hill. After an uneventful 2.5 km, we reach road 71, then later Szigliget. A great buffet operates by the main road, where food and drinks are available, and it’s hard not to stop for a sip after conquering the straight, asphalted bike path.

A few minutes later, we are in Szigliget's historic center, where we find two stamps close to each other: one on an information board and the other opposite in a wine bar. Although not part of the Blue Trail, we recommend visiting the castle (the third Szigliget stamp is found at the ticket office)! Inside, fascinating exhibitions await, but perhaps the best part is the full panorama. To the south, Lake Balaton dominates the horizon, and in the distance, we can see almost all the major Balaton Uplands witness hills. The flat terrain between them features fields, pastures, reed beds, and vineyards, making the landscape varied, while to the east, the 437-meter-high Badacsony attracts the gaze.

The Szigliget Castle was built during the wave of castle construction following the Tatar invasion in the 13th century and continuously expanded by its frequently changing owners. In mid-16th century, Turkish armies besieged it several times but could not take it. The castle's importance gradually decreased afterward; in 1697, lightning caused an explosion of gunpowder stored in the Benedictine tower, causing massive damage. The burnt, collapsed castle was not rebuilt to prevent Rákóczi’s soldiers from using it. The castle ruins dispersed by locals were renovated in several phases in the 20th century, with the last major work in 2013.

Szigliget – Badacsonytördemic-Szigliget

We continue towards the highest Balaton Uplands witness hill. First, we meander a bit through Szigliget streets and take a 50-meter detour along Réhelyi Road to visit the Avasi church ruins. This part of Szigliget was inhabited already in Roman times; the church also known as the Half Tower was probably built in the 13th century.

Following the K markings, the settlement soon disappears beside us, but we stay on asphalt roads. A minor traffic connecting road joins from the north beyond the Antal Hill, where the Balaton bike ring also merges, and from here, we proceed straight toward Badacsonytördemic. We cross over the densely reed-covered Eger stream, then the 71 road and the railway. The end stamp of this stage can be found on the left inside the train station waiting room. Railway workers were prominent participants in hiking movements in the 20th century; many section demarcations remain valid and recognized according to their logic. This Blue Trail section also ends at a train station, whose track-facing facade has two metal plaques commemorating the railway community's role in Blue Trail hiking.