Alpine climbing in the Dolomites

The Dolomites are among the most beautiful mountains in the world and are probably the mecca for alpine climbers who like to stay on classic routes and want to climb big walls. The areas of the Sella and Langkofel groups are quickly accessible via mountain passes and offer not only long, full-day objectives but also many half-day goals. The Pala group is the most effortful to reach from the northern side of the Alps in the Dolomites. However, it offers the best rock. Those visiting the Dolomite region for the first time should plan at least one week, preferably two. For the often-long routes, stable weather conditions are needed. Several tragedies in the past have occurred here due to sudden thunderstorms and weather changes.

• Latemar
• Rosengarten Group
• Schlern Group
• Geisler Group
• Peitlerkofler Group
• Bocchekamm
• Marmolada Group
• Langkofel Group
• Sella Group
• Puez Group
• Fanes Group
• Pragser Dolomites
• Grappastock
• Cimonega Group
• Pala Group
• Civetta Group
• Schjara Group
• Bosconero Group
• Pelmostock
• Ampezzo Dolomites
• Tofana Massif
• Cristallo Group
• Sorapiss Group
• Marmarole
• Sexten Dolomites

Beginners should first try out other areas of the Alps and learn experience in placing mobile protection. Also, it makes sense, due to the rather sparse protection in the Dolomite region, to start climbs well below the personal difficulty level. Overstretching can quickly lead to accidents in the Dolomites.

Tip: Better to start on easier routes and be safe.

Alternatively, one can of course also be accompanied by an experienced mountain guide, especially if one does not trust oneself with lead climbing but still wants to enter the high Dolomite walls. Even with a guide, sufficient conditioning and climbing experience are necessary.

Besides the many high walls, there are also plenty of climbing gardens which are suitable for a more relaxed day in between. The Stone City at the Sella Pass offers great small sectors also in the lower difficulty levels in an extremely beautiful ambiance with views of Langkofel and the Sella towers.

In bad weather, one can also retreat for a day to the climbing halls in Sexten or Toblach or enjoy a rest day.

Alpine climbers from Germany, Austria, and Switzerland will certainly know the 100 challenging routes from the cult climbing guidebook “in extreme rock – 100 legendary climbing routes in the Alps,” as they belong to the most sought-after routes for alpine climbers. The book was first published in 1970, with Walter Pause as the author at that time. In 2015, the climbing bible was revised by Christoph Klein and Jürgen Winkler, resulting in a third edition. The book contains 100 routes from the entire Alpine region, typical for their respective mountain areas and extremely difficult for the conditions at that time. The climbing guide quickly became the bible for every ambitious alpine climber, and collecting Pause routes became an important source of motivation. Even today, the routes remain highly coveted. Many routes are still protected according to the spirit of the time (many rusty normal pitons) and need to be supplemented with removable protection. However, there are also a few routes well equipped with bolt anchors.

In the Dolomites, there are a total of 24 of the coveted 100 Pause routes in extreme rock. They are divided into the following alpine climbing areas (route name, difficulty, wall height):

Rosengarten Group:

1. Rotwand Southwest Face (Brandler/Hasse), VII, A2 or IX+, 400 m
2. Rosengartenspitze Direct East Face (Steger), VI-, 600 m

Sella Group:

1. Piz de Ciavazes South Face (Micheluzzi), VI-, A0 or VI, 500 m

Marmolada Group:

1. Mormolada di Rocca South Face (Vinatzer/Messner), VI+, 800 m
2. Marmolada di Penia Southwest Face (Soldà), VI, A0 or VI+, 550 m

Pala Group:

1. Sass Maor East Face (Solleder), VI-, A0 or VI+, 600 m
2. Cima Canali West Face (Buhlriss), V+, A0 or VI-
3. Monte Agner North Ridge, V+, A0 or VII, 1250 m (Eastern Pala Group)
4. Spiz di Lagunàz Casarotto Corner Crack, VI+, A1 or VII+, 1350 m (Eastern Pala Group)

Civetta Group:

1. Torre Venezia South Face (Tissi), V+, A0 or VI-, 500 m
2. Torre Trieste South Face (Carlesso/Sandri), VI, A2 or VIII, 650 m
3. Civetta Northwest Face (Solleder), VI-, A1 or VI, 1100 m
4. Punta Civetta Northwest Face (Andrich/Fae), VI, A1 or VI+, 750 m
5. Torre di Valgrande Northwest Face (Carlesso), VI-, A1 or VIII-, 290 m

Bosconero Group:

1. Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero North Face, VI-, A0 or VII-, 600 m

Fanes Group:

1. Heiligkreuzkofel Central Pillar, VII-, the usual variant VI+, A0 or VII-, 500 m
2. Cima Scotoni Southwest Face, VI+, A1 or VIII, 500 m
3. Tofana di Rozes Tofana Pillar, VI-, A1 or VII+, 500 m

Ampezzo Dolomites:

1. Punta Fiames Southeast Ridge V, 450 m

Sorapiss Group:

1. Sorella di Mezzo Northwest Face, V+, A0 or VI-, 600 m

Sexten Dolomites:

1. Western Peak North Face, Cassin Route: VI+, A2 or VIII-; Swiss Route: VI, A2 or IX+, 500 m
2. Great Peak Direct North Face (Hasse/Brandler), VI, A3 or VIII+, 550 m
3. Small Peak South Ridge (Yellow Ridge), V+, A1 or VI, 350 m
4. Zwölferkogel North Ridge, VI-, A1 or VII-, 650 m

• Dolomites – Routes and experiences 50 selected and narrated tour suggestions. Authors: Ivo Rabanser, Orietta Bonaldo, Edizione Versante Sud, 1st edition (2007), ISBN-13: 978-8887890426

• Climbing Trips – Dolomites. Author: Roberto Iacopelli, Edition Raetia, 1st edition (2004), ISBN-13: 978-8883142444

• Grade 4 Western Dolomites, Volume I. Author: Emiliano Zorzi, Idea Montagna Editoria e Alpinismo, 1st edition (2011), ISBN-13: 978-8897299073

• Grade 4 Western Dolomites, Volume II. Author: Emiliano Zorzi, Idea Montagna Editoria e Alpinismo, 1st edition (2011), ISBN-13: 978-8897299110

• Climbing in Val Gardena and surroundings – The most beautiful routes in the Dolomites Volume 1. Author: Mauro Bernardi, Athesia, 6th edition (2019), ISBN-13: 978-8868394257

• Climbing in Val Gardena and surroundings – The most beautiful routes in the Dolomites Volume 2. Author: Mauro Bernardi, Athesia, 1st edition (2011), ISBN-13: 978-8882667313

• Dolomites – Climbing in Cortina d´Ampezzo and surroundings. Author: Mauro Bernardi, Athesia, 2nd edition (2005), ISBN-13 : 978-8887272949

• Climbing in Val Gardena – Dolomites The 70 finest multi-pitch Alpine climbing routes. Author: Mauro Bernardi, Athesia, ISBN: 978-88-6839-225-3 (in English)

• Dolomites Vertical Volume North. Author: Stefan Wagenhals, LoboPlus, 4th edition (2010), ISBN-13: 978-3934650107

• Dolomites Vertical Volume South. Author: Stefan Wagenhals, LoboPlus, 2nd edition (2005), EAN: 9783934650053

• Climbing in the Rosengarten and surroundings - The most beautiful routes in the Dolomites Volume 2. Author: Mauro Bernardi, Athesia, 1st edition (2009), ISBN-13: 978-8882665692

• Three Peaks – Classic and modern routes. Authors: Erik Svab, Giovanni Renzi, Gerd Zimmermann, Versante Sud, 1st edition (2009), ISBN-13: 978-8887890969

• Marmolada South Face. Author: Maurizio Giordani, Versante Sud, 1st edition (2017), ISBN-13: 978-8885475045

• Best of Dolomites – Selected climbing guides. Author: Ivo Rabanser, Panico Alpinverlag, 1st edition (2018), ISBN-13: 978-3-95611-085-6 (out of print)

• Dolomiti New Age – 130 selected sport routes up to 7a. Author: Alessio Conz, Versante Sud, 1st edition (2020), ISBN: 978 88 55470 162

• Pala Group – Selected classic and modern routes. Authors: Tullio Simoni, Renzo Corona, Versante Sud,1st edition (2018), ISBN: 978-88-98609-88-8

• The Dolomites – Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata. Author: James Rushforth, Rockfax, 1st edition (2019), ISBN: 978-1-873341-97-1 (in English)

The protection in the Dolomites differs immensely from a sport climbing area secured with bolts in Switzerland. In contrast, the majority of classic routes in the Dolomites are relatively sparsely protected with many normal pitons and natural fixed points. However, this also defines alpine climbing in the Dolomites. The standard alpine equipment (short: NAA) usually includes some slings, a few medium-sized friends, and some nuts. Sometimes a hammer and pitons are also needed. In many climbing guides or alpine climbing tours on our platform, the required equipment is specified, sometimes with exact size details of the needed protection devices. Anyone climbing in the Dolomites for the first time should initially attempt very easy routes and practice protection with removable anchors there. A route graded UIAA V is already considered demanding in the Dolomites, especially for climbers inexperienced with sparse protection and the additional placement of removable protection. Gradually, with sufficient experience, one can slowly progress to slightly harder routes. In recent years, some routes with bolt protection have also developed, but these still represent the minority.