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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Dolomites

Delago Tower, Delago Edge

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DAV Sektion Duisburg Verified partner 
  • Route of the Delago Edge, Stabler and Winkler Tower, as well as the Gartl Hut
    Route of the Delago Edge, Stabler and Winkler Tower, as well as the Gartl Hut
    Photo: Oliver Knorre, DAV Sektion Duisburg

Selected alternatives for you
    The classic greasy climb at the Vajolet Towers in the Dolomites, 5 rope lengths.
    moderate
    Distance 6.1 km
    7:15 h
    841 m
    841 m
    2,790 m
    1,949 m

    1st pitch: From the belay climb up right of the edge, left on a bolt to the edge, then up the edge and to the belay on a ledge (28m, IV+, 1 bolt, SU)

    2nd pitch: Back to the edge and up an exposed vertical edge (2 bolts), continue over the edge, at the first ledge continue through the crack to the second ledge, belay here (25m, 3 bolts, IV)

    3rd pitch: First towards the edge, then right into the wall and the corner (IV, 3 bolts, photo), later III to the belay (23m, IV, 3 bolts)

    4th pitch: Climb right on the first, then the second flake up to the slab (1 bolt), keep left to the belay at the edge (25m, IV, 1 bolt)

    5th pitch: Over the edge (III) shortly up, then keep right passing blocks (II) to the summit (25m, III)

    Author’s recommendation

    Rappel to the upper Delago notch over the wedged block to the Stabler Tower and climb the West Face (45m, V+, by Hans Steger) or the last pitch of the Emmerich Route (40m, V+, by Otto Eisenstecken) both at the Stabler Tower.

    Difficulty
    IV+4c moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    Delago Tower, 2,790 m
    Lowest point
    Gardeccia Hut, 1,949 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    711 m, 2:10 h
    Wall height
    130 m
    Climbing length
    156 m, 2:30 h
    Descent
    841 m, 2:00 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts, trad gear
    Protection
    sporadic bolts, pitons, trad gear
    Rope length
    2 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    6
    First ascent
    Piaz, Jori and Glaser 1911

    Track types

    Asphalt 25.45%Dirt road 2.70%Forested/wild trail 22.51%Path 39.30%Via ferrata 4.72%Unknown 5.28%
    Asphalt
    1.5 km
    Dirt road
    165 m
    Forested/wild trail
    1.4 km
    Path
    2.4 km
    Via ferrata
    287 m
    Unknown
    321 m
    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Rifugio Stella Alpina Spiz Piaz
    Rifugio Re Alberto I° - Gartlhütte

    Roadbook

    Approach:

    From the Gardeccia Hut take path no.: 546 to the Vajolet Hut (50 min), then climb the Gartl via path 542 up to the Gartl Hut (60 min). Now ascend towards the Delago Tower, finally over the ramp to the start almost at the edge (20 min).

    Descent:

    From the summit first rappel 33m (east) into the upper Delago notch onto the wedged block, now rappel southwards a total of 4 times (20m, 20m, 20m and 25m) or twice using 50m half ropes. Climb down the last section (I) to the terrace and descend as on the approach to the Gartl Hut, then continue via the ascent route to the Gardeccia Hut.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
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    Photo
    Video
    Rifugio Stella Alpina Spiz Piaz
    Geostop #9.2 - DWHG - The reef preserved in the rock
    Rifugio Vajolet
    Gartlhütte (Rif. Rè Alberto)
    Rifugio Re Alberto I° - Gartlhütte
    Einstieg Delagokante (2.670 m)
    Einstieg Fehrmann (2.670 m)
    Einstieg Winklerriss (2.660 m) (Pos Korrigiert)

    Public transport

    The Gardeccia Valley has been closed to private car traffic for many years.

    The shuttle bus officially runs from the chairlift car park in Pera di Fassa to the Gardeccia Hut.

    You can drive by car up to Muncion, which is the last possible approach point.

    Price: round trip 10.00 € (as of September 2014)

    Directions

    From the Brenner Pass take the motorway (A22) to Bolzano North and then through the Eggental via SS241 past Welschnofen up to Karer Pass. On the other side descend to Vigo di Fassa and in the same town turn left onto SS48 towards Campitello di Fassa. In Pera di Fassa follow the road towards Muncion. This is the end of your own approach.

    Parking

    Parking at Muncion is scarce!

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.447197, 11.639768
    DMS
    46°26'49.9"N 11°38'23.2"E
    UTM
    32T 702747 5147122
    w3w 
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    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Climbing in the Rosengarten and surroundings, the most beautiful routes in the Dolomites, by Mauro Bernardi, Athesia Verlag

    Author’s map recommendations

    Topographic map 1:25000, sheet no.: 06, Val di Fassa, Tabacco Verlag

    Recommended maps for this region:

    Show more

    Equipment

    NAA

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Rating submitted
    Difficulty
    IV+4c moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    6.1 km
    Duration
    7:15 h
    Ascent
    841 m
    Descent
    841 m
    Highest point
    2,790 m
    Lowest point
    1,949 m
    Scenic Summit route Wall Abseil Descending on foot Out and back

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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