1st pitch: From the belay climb up right of the edge, left on a bolt to the edge, then up the edge and to the belay on a ledge (28m, IV+, 1 bolt, SU)
2nd pitch: Back to the edge and up an exposed vertical edge (2 bolts), continue over the edge, at the first ledge continue through the crack to the second ledge, belay here (25m, 3 bolts, IV)
3rd pitch: First towards the edge, then right into the wall and the corner (IV, 3 bolts, photo), later III to the belay (23m, IV, 3 bolts)
4th pitch: Climb right on the first, then the second flake up to the slab (1 bolt), keep left to the belay at the edge (25m, IV, 1 bolt)
5th pitch: Over the edge (III) shortly up, then keep right passing blocks (II) to the summit (25m, III)
Author’s recommendation
Rappel to the upper Delago notch over the wedged block to the Stabler Tower and climb the West Face (45m, V+, by Hans Steger) or the last pitch of the Emmerich Route (40m, V+, by Otto Eisenstecken) both at the Stabler Tower.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Rifugio Stella Alpina Spiz PiazRifugio Re Alberto I° - Gartlhütte
Roadbook
Approach:
From the Gardeccia Hut take path no.: 546 to the Vajolet Hut (50 min), then climb the Gartl via path 542 up to the Gartl Hut (60 min). Now ascend towards the Delago Tower, finally over the ramp to the start almost at the edge (20 min).
Descent:
From the summit first rappel 33m (east) into the upper Delago notch onto the wedged block, now rappel southwards a total of 4 times (20m, 20m, 20m and 25m) or twice using 50m half ropes. Climb down the last section (I) to the terrace and descend as on the approach to the Gartl Hut, then continue via the ascent route to the Gardeccia Hut.
Geostop #9.2 - DWHG - The reef preserved in the rock
Rifugio Vajolet
Gartlhütte (Rif. Rè Alberto)
Rifugio Re Alberto I° - Gartlhütte
Einstieg Delagokante (2.670 m)
Einstieg Fehrmann (2.670 m)
Einstieg Winklerriss (2.660 m) (Pos Korrigiert)
Public transport
The Gardeccia Valley has been closed to private car traffic for many years.The shuttle bus officially runs from the chairlift car park in Pera di Fassa to the Gardeccia Hut.
You can drive by car up to Muncion, which is the last possible approach point.
Price: round trip 10.00 € (as of September 2014)
Directions
From the Brenner Pass take the motorway (A22) to Bolzano North and then through the Eggental via SS241 past Welschnofen up to Karer Pass. On the other side descend to Vigo di Fassa and in the same town turn left onto SS48 towards Campitello di Fassa. In Pera di Fassa follow the road towards Muncion. This is the end of your own approach.Parking
Parking at Muncion is scarce!Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
NAALocalization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions