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Topo of the route "Titola"Photo: Luca De Giorgi, AVS Referat Bergsport & HG
At first glance, the line may not seem very exciting, but the climb surprises with beautiful pitches along an edge of excellent rock. The difficulties are manageable, the belays comfortable, the descent on foot, the rock very good, and the protection straightforward. This is a good choice to introduce beginners to Dolomite climbing or for a day with unstable weather.
1. [35 m, IV+, 4 bolts, 3 sand timers]: Climb up the groove/ravine to a yellow wall. Pass left under it and climb right along the grey wall. Belay on a cemented ring on a narrow ledge at the foot of the grey slab.
2. [25 m, IV, 2 bolts, 5 sand timers]: This pitch follows a faintly pronounced edge. From the belay climb straight up to the next belay (cemented ring) at a tree left of the prominent roof.
3. [35 m, IV-, 1 bolt, 5 sand timers]: Nice pitch! From the belay climb slightly up, then traverse right towards an overhang. A stemming move leads to the slab at the edge above the overhang. Climb right along this, then overcome a small corner. Belay at a drilled sand timer and a tree.
4. [28 m, III, 3 sand timers]: Climb a few meters up the grass to the start of the inclined edge (two sand timers), follow this to the belay at a cemented piton. Few protection possibilities.
5. [30 m, IV+, 2 bolts, 2 sand timers]: Climb to the start of the ramp and then follow it right. Beautiful exposed climbing. Overcome the tricky IV+ section at the end of the ramp (protected by a bolt) and belay at cemented pitons.
6. [28 m, IV+, 1 bolt, 2 sand timers]: From the belay carefully climb left of the grey slab (IV+), then continue up a corner. Build belay at a ledge with two offset sand timers. Watch out, don’t miss the belay!
7. [28 m, IV+, 1 bolt, 2 sand timers]: Climb right along the beautifully exposed edge and follow it to the exit at the trees.
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileSafety information
Length: 7 pitches / 215 m
Difficulty: VI+
Quality of protection / General difficulty: R2/II
Description of protection: Blue bolts, sand timers (partly drilled) and cemented belays.
Rock quality: Very good
Retreat: Retreating via the route is not recommended.
Descent: The descent runs along steep meadows and can be dangerous if the grass is wet.
Tips and suggestions
At the Malga Sella Alm, you can enjoy a well-deserved beer away from the main road. This stop is especially popular among climbers, where you can exchange information about other climbing routes.
Those wishing to repeat this route with the first ascensionist can find their contact here: www.maurobernardi.com/
Roadbook
Approach; From the parking lot at SS 242, follow about 100 meters downhill. At the easternmost hairpin turn under the Ciavazes south face, take hiking trail no. 656 and follow it for about 300 meters. As soon as the path starts to descend steeply, at the end turn left into a small ravine onto its scree cone. The distinctive edge up which the route leads can be easily recognized.
GPS coordinates for the start: 46.506842, 11.791560
Descent: From the trees at the end of the route, cross the large meadow heading west on a faint path. As soon as you reach the ravine, descend diagonally southeast under a rock band to the trees. Then descend northwest towards the stream. Cross it and ascend under the Abraham edge. Then follow one of the game trails over the scree to the road. WARNING, the descent is not without danger (see photo for better orientation), if the grass is wet, it is better to cross the large meadow from the exit and then rappel improvisedly.
Directions
Drive on SS 242 towards Sellajoch. Drive down on the other side towards Canazei and park shortly before the westernmost hairpin (directly under the western edge of the Ciavazes wall).Parking
Park in one of the bays at the edge of the road.
GPS coordinates parking: 46.506831, 11.787090
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Mauro Bernardi: Climbing in Gröden and surroundings, Volume 3
Athesia Publishing, ISBN 978-88-6839-064-8
Author’s map recommendations
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
The route was developed so that it can be climbed with 8 quickdraws, but it is recommended to bring some friends and slings as well.
Included in the NAA (Normal Alpine Equipment) are, among others:
• 2 x 60 m half ropes
• Helmet, harness, backpack, climbing shoes, etc.
• Sufficient slings (2) and HMS carabiners (4) to build anchors
• Belay and abseil device
• Set of friends from 0.3 to 3 (sizes refer to Black Diamond series C4 or X4)
• Assortment of nuts
• Extendable quickdraws (6)
• Hammer and some pitons
• Some kevlar slings
• First aid kit, mobile phone, bivy sack, headlamp
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions