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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Sella Group

West face, Fourth Sella Tower (2605m), Dolomites (Sella)

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DAV Sektion Duisburg Verified partner 
  • Wall painting; the fourth Sellaturm is slightly tilted on the far left and partially obscured in the lower part
    Wall painting; the fourth Sellaturm is slightly tilted on the far left and partially obscured in the lower part
    Photo: Thomas Schwindt, DAV Sektion Duisburg

Selected alternatives for you
    Nice route near the Sellajoch. Not crowded and especially recommended for warm days.
    moderate
    Distance 4.7 km
    6:00 h
    584 m
    584 m
    2,605 m
    2,194 m
    Away from the bustle of the Sellajoch, the Fourth Sella Tower is nonetheless very close. Particularly on hot days, it is a great climbing spot. Excellent pitches alternate between flakes and cracks.

    Author’s recommendation

    With accommodation at Rifugio Carlo Valentini, the car can stay parked, allowing you to enjoy the day alone with yourself and the mountain.
    Difficulty
    V- moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Fourth Sella Tower, 2,605 m
    Lowest point
    2,194 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
    Nov
    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    0:45 h
    Wall height
    250 m
    Climbing length
    270 m, 4:00 h
    Descent
    1:15 h
    Belay stations
    pitons, trad gear
    Protection
    pitons, trad gear
    Rope length
    2 x 50 m
    First ascent
    F. Glück and Co, 1929

    Track types

    Dirt road 36.58%Path 43.98%Road 5.73%Unknown 13.69%
    Dirt road
    1.7 km
    Path
    2.1 km
    Road
    269 m
    Unknown
    642 m
    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Rifugio Carlo Valentini
    MARIA FLORA

    Safety information

    • A 60-meter rope is recommended for abseiling, as the stated 25m are tight.
    • The abseil route quickly turns into a waterfall, so one should only start under dry and stable weather conditions.

    Roadbook

    Approach

    From the Sellajoch, we initially follow the path to the Pößenecker via ferrata. Shortly before the Fourth Sella Tower, near a rock ledge, a path leads upwards. Over rubble to the start. (45 minutes)

    Climbing description

    1st pitch (IV) The start is located further right than in Bernardi's topo, extending the traverse. First bypass the mounds immediately under the yellow overhangs. From there, traverse far to the left and slightly ascending to a niche. Two slings mark the way. Belay at a sand timer and placed piton. (50m)

    2nd pitch (IV) Leave the niche to the left and ascend over a slab to a flake. Belay to the right under an overhang at two pitons. (20m)

    3rd pitch (IV-) Slightly right and then straight up past rock spikes to a ledge that lies right at the end of yellow overhangs. Belay at sand timer and piton. (35m)

    4th pitch (V-) Initially ascend, then traverse left at the pitons. Two pitons are located at the start of the crux at a flake. Climb them (intermediate pitons) and at their end (intermediate piton) traverse left and ascend in a curve back right to the belay at the sand timer. (15m)

    5th pitch (IV) Straight up over a flake. At its end (intermediate piton) right over a crack into a chimney to a sand timer with sling as belay. (30m)

    6th pitch (IV) Over flakes to the right. From there right of the crack to a bolt in a niche and then right to the belay beneath a niche at a sand timer with sling and piton. (35m)

    7th pitch (IV-) Leave the niche to the right and ascend over a slab. At the piton, right to the crack up to the belay on a ledge with piton. (45m)

    8th pitch (IV+) Slightly left over a crack to the pillar. Climb it on the right and at its end right to a niche. Belay at placed pitons there. (35m)

    9th pitch (III+) Left of the niche up a chimney to the exit. (35m)

    Descent

    From the tower towards the Sella massif, we already see a sling bundle for the first abseil station. From here, abseil a total of nine times (5 x 25m, 20m, 2 x 25m, 10 meters downclimb (I), 25m). The 25 meters are tight. A 60-meter rope is recommended.

    The complete description can be found in the literature. This own description serves as a supplement.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
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    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
    show {x} more
    Photo
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    Rifugio Carlo Valentini
    Sellajoch
    MARIA FLORA

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    By bus line 471 to the Sellajoch.

    Directions

    From Bolzano into the Val Gardena and up towards the Sellajoch.

    Parking

    Free parking is available at the Sella Pass.

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.505787, 11.757140
    DMS
    46°30'20.8"N 11°45'25.7"E
    UTM
    32T 711534 5153940
    w3w 
    ///cooperates.barmaid.messing
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Mauro Bernardi: Climbing in Val Gardena & Surroundings - Dolomites Volume 1

    Author’s map recommendations

    Tobacco, Val Gardena - Grödner Alpe di Siusi, sheet 5, 1:25,000

    Recommended maps for this region:

    Show more

    Equipment

    Standard alpine equipment (NAA) plus Camelot size 2

    There are numerous setups for an NAA. My suggestion: DAV Section Duisburg has posted an equipment list for alpine climbing in the training section on their homepage for the relevant courses.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    V- moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    4.7 km
    Duration
    6:00 h
    Ascent
    584 m
    Descent
    584 m
    Highest point
    2,605 m
    Lowest point
    2,194 m
    Public-transport-friendly Round trip Scenic Refreshment stops available Summit route Wall Slab Abseil

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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