West face, Fourth Sella Tower (2605m), Dolomites (Sella)
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Rifugio Carlo ValentiniMARIA FLORA
Safety information
- A 60-meter rope is recommended for abseiling, as the stated 25m are tight.
- The abseil route quickly turns into a waterfall, so one should only start under dry and stable weather conditions.
Roadbook
Approach
From the Sellajoch, we initially follow the path to the Pößenecker via ferrata. Shortly before the Fourth Sella Tower, near a rock ledge, a path leads upwards. Over rubble to the start. (45 minutes)
Climbing description
1st pitch (IV) The start is located further right than in Bernardi's topo, extending the traverse. First bypass the mounds immediately under the yellow overhangs. From there, traverse far to the left and slightly ascending to a niche. Two slings mark the way. Belay at a sand timer and placed piton. (50m)
2nd pitch (IV) Leave the niche to the left and ascend over a slab to a flake. Belay to the right under an overhang at two pitons. (20m)
3rd pitch (IV-) Slightly right and then straight up past rock spikes to a ledge that lies right at the end of yellow overhangs. Belay at sand timer and piton. (35m)
4th pitch (V-) Initially ascend, then traverse left at the pitons. Two pitons are located at the start of the crux at a flake. Climb them (intermediate pitons) and at their end (intermediate piton) traverse left and ascend in a curve back right to the belay at the sand timer. (15m)
5th pitch (IV) Straight up over a flake. At its end (intermediate piton) right over a crack into a chimney to a sand timer with sling as belay. (30m)
6th pitch (IV) Over flakes to the right. From there right of the crack to a bolt in a niche and then right to the belay beneath a niche at a sand timer with sling and piton. (35m)
7th pitch (IV-) Leave the niche to the right and ascend over a slab. At the piton, right to the crack up to the belay on a ledge with piton. (45m)
8th pitch (IV+) Slightly left over a crack to the pillar. Climb it on the right and at its end right to a niche. Belay at placed pitons there. (35m)
9th pitch (III+) Left of the niche up a chimney to the exit. (35m)
Descent
From the tower towards the Sella massif, we already see a sling bundle for the first abseil station. From here, abseil a total of nine times (5 x 25m, 20m, 2 x 25m, 10 meters downclimb (I), 25m). The 25 meters are tight. A 60-meter rope is recommended.
The complete description can be found in the literature. This own description serves as a supplement.
Sellajoch
MARIA FLORA
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
By bus line 471 to the Sellajoch.Directions
From Bolzano into the Val Gardena and up towards the Sellajoch.Parking
Free parking is available at the Sella Pass.Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Standard alpine equipment (NAA) plus Camelot size 2
There are numerous setups for an NAA. My suggestion: DAV Section Duisburg has posted an equipment list for alpine climbing in the training section on their homepage for the relevant courses.
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions