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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Dolomites

Coston d´Averau, southwest chimney

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DAV Sektion Duisburg Verified partner 
  • Routenverlauf vom Ausgangspunkt, Albergo Sasso di Stria
    Routenverlauf vom Ausgangspunkt, Albergo Sasso di Stria
    Photo: Oliver Knorre, DAV Sektion Duisburg

Selected alternatives for you
    Quite inconspicuous due to famous neighbors, but impresses with very good rock quality, 7 pitches + 100m to the summit plateau
    moderate
    Distance 1.8 km
    4:15 h
    272 m
    274 m
    2,200 m
    1,935 m
    The route begins with beautiful slab climbing before transitioning into chimney climbing. After leaving the chimney, finding the way gets a bit confusing but impresses with sharp-edged rock.

    Author’s recommendation

    Espresso at Albergo Saasso di Stria and a slightly different view of Lagazuoi.
    Difficulty
    V moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Coston d`Averau, 2,200 m
    Lowest point
    Pian di Falzarego, 1,935 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
    Nov
    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    80 m, 0:20 h
    Wall height
    220 m
    Climbing length
    333 m, 3:00 h
    Descent
    265 m, 0:45 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts, pitons
    Protection
    pitons
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    6
    First ascent
    O. De Biasio and G. Testor in the 80s

    Track types

    Asphalt 2.70%Forested/wild trail 3.55%Path 13.36%Road 2.63%Unknown 77.72%
    Asphalt
    49 m
    Forested/wild trail
    64 m
    Path
    240 m
    Road
    47 m
    Unknown
    1.4 km
    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Falzarego Sattel Hütte

    Roadbook

    Approach:

    From Albergo Saasso di Stria (Pian di Falzarego) a small path (to the south) leads directly into the forest, but after a few meters you leave it to the left towards the west face of Coston d´Averau. You should not lose sight of this when finding your way, as the traces of passage through the forest eventually become less visible. After crossing a stream, hopefully without getting your feet wet, it goes steeply uphill through the forest/meadow directly to the start. The start is marked by an hourglass.

    Climbing route:

    1st pitch: Climb the slab on enjoyable rock upwards, the most difficult spot of the route shortly before the belay (35m, V, 2 pitons, 4 nuts)

    2nd pitch: Follow the crack towards the chimneys and belay at the start of the ramp at the small peak with pitons (23m, IV)

    3rd pitch: Not the ramp to the right but climb the black crack to the left, at the next ramp follow this to the right to the belay to the left of the corner (20m, IV+)

    4th pitch: Climb the crack to the right into the chimney, a short left at a piton, then back into the chimney and follow it upwards, belay at 2 pitons, shortly before the belay a recessed Camelot (40m, IV, 1 piton, 2 nuts)

    5th pitch: Continue up the chimney, first IV then II, at the corner go to the right up to the belay at the small peak, at a pine tree (40m)

    6th pitch: The ridge slightly to the left upwards, passing the tree on the right, belay on a small ledge (35m)

    7th pitch: Go right from the belay, then vertically towards the overhang, before the overhang right (piton) into the chimney, follow it to the exit at 2 nuts (40m, 1 piton, nuts)

    Easy in stepped terrain (I-II) to the summit plateau.

    Descent:

    First through the dwarf pine thickets towards the east, until you meet trail tracks. Follow these north (view towards Falzarego Pass) and back over meadows (initially still flat, later steep into the gorge) and later forest back to the starting point, 50 minutes. 

    Alternative: Through the dwarf pine thickets over meadows to Falzarego Pass and unpleasantly descend along the road

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
    show {x} more
    Photo
    Video
    Lagazuoi open air museum in the rock tunnel
    Lagazuoi open air museum in the rock tunnel
    Falzarego Sattel Hütte
    Martin Martinelli
    Lagazuoi Bahn Talstation
    Falzarego Pass
    Passo Falzarego
    Falzàregopass

    Parking

    Free parking at Albergo Saasso di Stria

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.514396, 12.002213
    DMS
    46°30'51.8"N 12°00'08.0"E
    UTM
    33T 270040 5155569
    w3w 
    ///unaware.adverts.wordplay
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Climbing in Cortina D´Ampezzo and surroundings, the most beautiful routes, by Mauro Bernardi, Athesia Verlag

    Author’s map recommendations

    Topographic map 1:25000, sheet no.: 03, Cortina D´Ampezzo, sheet no.: 07, Alta Badia-Arabba-Marmolada, both Tabacco Verlag

    Recommended maps for this region:

    Show more

    Equipment

    NAA and some medium Camalots

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    V moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    1.8 km
    Duration
    4:15 h
    Ascent
    272 m
    Descent
    274 m
    Highest point
    2,200 m
    Lowest point
    1,935 m
    Wall Descending on foot Round trip

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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