Rampen-Führe (South), Sas de Mesdi (2762 m), Dolomites (Geisler Group)

Approach

From the Regensburger Hut we initially take path no. 13. After just over one kilometer, at a fork, we bear left and bypass a summit on path no. 13b. We then join path no. 2b. We follow it east towards the valley head. The route goes far below the rock walls. Upon reaching the Sas de Mesdi, we ascend only after passing the Kasnapoff tower on our left. We climb to the right of it through grass and scree and thus reach a small saddle behind it. The start (chimney) is now slightly to the right at the foot of the Sas de Mesdi in front of us. To its left we see a large boulder. The approach takes about one and a half hours.

Climbing description

1st pitch (IV+): The chimney is very eroded at the bottom and opens outwards. The right side at its beginning is longer wet. It can only be protected with cam blocks, so the lead climber has to use body jams or boldly stay wide-angled outside. Before a cluster of old slings on a cam block, it goes right to the wall and over a small ledge to the belay at a well-visible hourglass with a sling on a ledge. There are no bolts on this pitch. (35 m)

2nd pitch (III+): From the belay it goes about five meters to a small pillar projecting from the wall. We climb it centrally and also tackle the following slab directly. Finally, it goes over a gully to the belay at two bolts. In Bernardi's topo the belay is located higher and more to the right at an hourglass. As we did not find it there, the description from this point for pitches two and three deviates from the topo and an additional short fourth pitch arises. (40 m)

3rd pitch (IV+): From the belay at two bolts we climb briefly up and keep right. Do not follow the bolt below and to the right of the belay. We then descend slightly and go around the corner. The protection points are sufficient for the second climber. No additions are necessary. Before the wide step onto the opposite wall can be made, another belay at a bolt with the possibility to add gear is set. Otherwise, rope drag would be too great. (20 m)

4th pitch (IV): A few meters right and cross to the opposite wall with a wide step. Shortly above another belay. (10 m)

5th pitch (IV+): We climb slightly right to a well-visible bolt over a steep wall. Then it goes right at an hourglass until we climb up between two boulders. Do not climb the large yellow niche, but traverse right below it to the niche. (25 m)

6th pitch (III): We leave the niche to the right and climb the right wall of the gully until its end with a cam block. To the left there is a small head suitable for a belay. (30 m)

7th pitch (I-II): The last pitch runs right of the small tower to a ledge with a cairn. (25 m)

Descent

After the last belay, go right of the small rock peak to a small plateau facing north (cairn). From there continue initially north following cairns and with some steep sections descend to the normal route. We follow it down over rock (sections I-II). Cairns are still sufficient for orientation. At the end, over meadows and again rock to the hiking trail descending left from the Mittag col. This takes about 40 minutes. We follow the hiking trail down and, upon reaching a meadow with many paths, orient ourselves by the signs towards the Regensburger Hut. From there about one more hour to the hut. In total, the descent takes about one hour and forty minutes.

The complete description can be found in the literature. This own description serves as a supplement.