Steger Direct, Rosengarten Peak, Dolomites (Rosengarten)

Approach

From the Vajolet Hut, follow hiking trail no. 584 briefly, then ascend directly left before the path 542 turning steeply left and traverse south below Punta Emma. Following the clearly visible path, after about 30 minutes you reach a green slope dotted with large boulders. From here, the start is already clearly visible. After overcoming a few more meters in altitude, you reach the fore-slab. In easy climbing (UIAA II) we ascend it from left to right to the start at the end of the first pitch (2 bolt hangers with sling).

Climbing Description

1st pitch (II) A small ledge leads from left to right to the actual start of the climb (40m). The belay is clearly marked with two bolt hangers and a sling. From here the fun begins.

2nd pitch (IV+) Traverse diagonally right to the clearly visible corner where a bolt provides security. The corner is left at the first left crack, another corner is crossed, and a belay is reached on a slab with two bolts after a short 20m.

3rd pitch (V) The yellow rock looks flaky but is surprisingly solid. Small holds in the corner evoke nostalgic thoughts of magnesium, but a gentle breeze quickly dries the hands again. Numerous pitons mark the way up, so be careful not to miss the seventh one, where you traverse left and ascend along the edge to the belay (30m). Two bolts here offer enough security for the upcoming crux pitch.

4th pitch (VI-) A wonderful corner awaits the climber. With good stemming technique and footwork, you surprisingly climb the crux without much effort. Here too, plenty of bolts have been placed. The following belay with three bolts is the last with this much metal for the next 11 pitches (20m).

5th pitch (IV) Ascend right but stay below the yellow walls until reaching a chimney leading directly to a small roof above. Before this, taking a bolt slightly left, proceed to the belay at a small knob (35m).

6th pitch (V) After a short traverse left, ascend a chimney until a large knob on the left invites for a belay (50m).

7th pitch (IV+) Climb above the belay on the indicated pillar and traverse right at the end (2 bolts). Then continue rightwards ascending the yellow ramp to the belay with two bolts (35m).

8th pitch (IV+) Initially follow the crack and the indicated chimney up. Before the corner, traverse left and before the left flake, cross a ramp right to the belay at one bolt (30m).

9th pitch (V) Pleasantly stemming over several large chockstones, first through the chimney, then exit left over the wall. Before a flake (left) there is a ring anchor for the belay (40m).

10th pitch (IV+) Follow the steep chimney upwards past a bolt to the knob on the left (45m).

11th pitch (IV) This pitch leads again upwards 45m through a rugged steep chimney.

12th pitch (IV) Gain further meters in the chimney to a belay clearly visible thanks to a sling (35m).

13th pitch (V+) Initially bypass the wide and deep crack to the left and then return to master the difficulty stemming at three bolts. A slight exit leads to the wall. On the right a chimney ascends, at whose base we belay at two bolts (35m).

14th pitch (IV) Traverse briefly to the right on a ramp passing one bolt and reach the belay on a ledge with three bolts (45m).

15th pitch (IV) Follow a ramp to the right, bypass the blocky ledge and climb it. Belay on a platform at three bolts (20m).

16th pitch (V+) Memories of the third pitch almost awaken. The same yellow rock welcomes you at the 16th pitch and numerous bolts and protection opportunities show the way. Shortly before the exit, which lies left at the throat of a chimney, one must extend well. The belay consists of a rounded knob, and cracks above right offer rear protection (30m).

17th pitch (V+) The start shows the water masses crashing through the chimney below. One should never climb here in the rain. The rocks are polished by the water, but at the start, the difficulty is easy, so the respectful view is without nervous tension. The chimney widens, and wonderful climbing—secured by three bolts—allows you to gain height almost effortlessly by stemming and bridging. The belay is located on a comfortable knob (30m).

18th pitch (III) The climbing essentially ends here. The III slab is very grippy and the summit, though still distant, is already visible. From the end of the rope, you reach a freely selectable knob on the broad ridge (50m).

19th pitch (II) and 20th pitch (II) About 100m follow now towards the summit using the easiest route. Belay wherever desired. At the end, there remain another 60-70m (I). The summit cross only appears shortly before reaching it. It rewards with a summit book and a wonderful view.

Descent

From the summit, follow the ridge northwards (cairns) to the normal route notch (UIAA I-II). Before reaching it, rappel once (III). Passing it, continue about 50 meters in the direction of another notch. Cairns show the way left to the west wall where many abseil possibilities await. They lead to the normal route's ascent chimney. Respectfully look at the polished rock. Two rappels lead to the base. From there, the clearly visible Santnerpass Hut. Here we follow trail 542 past the Gartl Hut descending to the Vajolet Hut.