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Alpine Climbing
· Val di Fassa
Teufelswand (Roda del Diavolo) - East Face, Battisti
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MapPhoto: Josef Melchart, Alpenverein Edelweiss
Short route on the east face of the Teufelswand.
The route must be entirely self-protected. Rock heads and hourglasses are sufficiently available. The climbing line is not always clear; there are several options. Despite varying rock quality and much loose scree, the route is recommendable.
Difficulty: Climbing UIAA 4, approach T4 and C.
Rock quality: 2 to 4 out of 4 (moderate to very good). Solid rock at difficult sections.
Protection: None present. Protection on rock heads and hourglasses must be placed by oneself.
Base points:
● Rotwand Hut (Rifugio Roda di Vael, 2283 m, Alpenverein S.A.T). From Karerpass (Passo di Costalunga) 530 m elevation gain / 1:30 hours. Or from Karersee (Carezza) with Paolina chairlift 180 m / 0:45 hours.
● Paolina Hut (2125 m, private). From Karersee by chairlift directly to the hut. Or from Karerpass on foot 380 m / 1:00 hour.
Information status: July 2014
Important note: The track only approximately indicates the direction. Pay attention to the description and do not rely solely on GPS data!
Author’s recommendation
● The data are given from the Rotwand Hut.
● Other recommended routes near the hut:
- Teufelswand East Face, Large Pillar (4-, eight rope lengths, description on bergsteigen.com).
- Fensterlturm South Ridge (4-, three rope lengths, descriptions on bergsteigen.com).
- Base of Fensterlturm South Pillar (4, three rope lengths).
- Base of Fensterlturm East Face (4-, four rope lengths), optimal "approach" to the south ridge.
- Fensterlturm Normal Route West Face (4-, two rope lengths).
- Masaré via ferrata and Rotwand via ferrata.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Rifugio Roda di VaelTips and suggestions
Further information ...
Roadbook
Approach: 320 m elevation gain, 1:00 hour from the Rotwand Hut. From the Karerpass 2:30 hours.
From the Rotwand Hut towards Fensterlturm (Torre Finestra). After the secured steep section before the Fensterlturm, cross left over the grassy slope to the east face of the Teufelswand.
On the east face (at about half wall height) you see striking black slabs with large holes. Approximately directly below lies a rock block in the grassy slope at the base of the wall. The start is just above this rock block at an hourglass with a sling.
Route: 5 rope lengths / 130 m elevation gain / 2:00 hours.
Descent: 450 m elevation loss, 1:15 hours to the Rotwand Hut or 2:15 hours to the Karerpass.
From the summit, descend northwards on traces and down to the saddle between Teufelswand and Fensterlturm (1-2). From there on the marked path (partly secured) southeast to the Rotwand Hut.
Rifugio Roda di Vael
Teufelswand
Fensterlturm (2.670 m)
Einstieg Fensterlturm (2.600 m)
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
Train to Bolzano (main station).
Bus 180 towards Karerpass, stop "Paolina" (for chairlift) or "Karerpass".
Directions
Brenner motorway south to just before Bolzano, then into the Eggental valley and toward Karerpass to the village of Karersee or further to Karerpass.
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Climbing guide "Climbing in the Rosengarten and surroundings" by Mauro Bernardi (out of print since 2025).
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Alpine climbing gear with 50 m single rope, 5 quickdraws, slings for heads and hourglasses, camming devices, helmet.
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions