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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Dolomiti d'Ampezzo, Dolomiti Bellunesi

Hohe Schlechtgaisl

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  • High Schlechtgaisl (left) from the west
    High Schlechtgaisl (left) from the west
    Photo: Markus Kaserer, AVS Sektion Bozen

Selected alternatives for you
    Dreamily beautiful and solitary Dolomite 3000-meter peak
    difficult
    Distance 12.3 km
    3:16 h
    1,346 m
    1,341 m
    3,015 m
    1,682 m
    Not just a minor summit! The very rarely climbed Hohe Schlechtgaisl offers real Dolomite feeling in the shadow of the Hohe Gaisl. It is a combined tour with a steep (snow) gully and rock ridge. The climbing difficulties are moderate when following the correct route finding In autumn, the red “weeping” rock of the Gaisl shines especially beautifully.

    Author’s recommendation

    In early summer or autumn after the first snowfall, when there is snow in the gully but the rock ridge is snow-free.
    Difficulty
    II+T5 difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    3,015 m
    Lowest point
    1,682 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Climbing length
    100 m
    Belay stations
    with anchor point for abseiling, pitons
    Protection
    trad gear
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m

    Track types

    Length
    12.3 km
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    The rock quality on the west ridge itself is average, but the rock quality in the Gaisl massif is generally not the best. Every hold must be tested!

    Roadbook

    From the parking lot at Ra Stua Alm, proceed about 1 km along a wide forest road northwards towards Sennes. 30 meters past a bridge, make a short right off-trail and immediately reach an old wide mule track likely used for logging transport. Follow this trail marked with signs up to its end on a grassy plateau. From here, follow the sparse cairns straight through to a often dry small creek bed. Go up this creek bed a short distance until cairns point left to a steep path leading up to the Muntjela valley to the now removed Pia Helbig-Dall’Oglio bivouac at about 2300 m. Shortly before it, a Madonna statue on a rock wall commemorates the builders of the bivouac.

    This is where the trail ends. From the green foothills of Muntjela valley, a magnificent Dolomite panorama opens up with the south face of the Kleine Gaisl to the left and behind you the Tofane peaks as well as the high plateau of Sennes-Prags. At the valley end, you can clearly see the gully with a notch that separates the Hohe Schlechtgaisl (left) from the Hohe Gaisl (right). Several partly hard-to-see cairns indicate the way directly along the valley floor. Follow this until you reach the foot of the gully. Crossing the scree field on the right is much more difficult and in autumn, due to late sun exposure, it is frozen hard there!

    The gully is ideal with snow; without snow, it can be partially bypassed on the right. It is up to 40 degrees steep. 25 vertical meters before the notch, leave the gully and traverse left across a narrow ledge (I), following cairns, to a exposed saddle. From here, there are two options: either ascend zigzag to the left over scree-covered terrain (I) to the summit (northwest exposure, so possibly snow), or directly ascend the west ridge (II+) to the summit. All other descriptions found online are more difficult. 

    The west ridge offers relatively good rock for Gaisl standards. There is also a normal piton with a ring for abseiling shortly below the summit. At the summit, there is a cairn hiding a plastic bottle with a soaked older summit logbook and a tin can with a newer summit booklet for the few summit visitors. The panorama from the summit is magnificent. You can see the entire Dolomites. Also impressive are the red “weeping” walls of the neighboring Hohe Gaisl.

    The descent is the same as the ascent, whereby the gully is much more pleasant going down. An ice axe offers greater safety. 

    Rest stop
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    Ra Stua Alm / Malga Ra Stua

    Public transport

    Unfortunately, no possibility to reach the starting point by public transport.

    Directions

    From Toblach through the Höhlensteintal past the provincial border towards Cortina. At the large left-hand hairpin bend near Podestagno, a narrow mountain road branches off to the right leading to Ra Stua Alm (open only on weekends from October).

    Parking

    Large free parking lot at Ra Stua Alm

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.625302, 12.098883
    DMS
    46°37'31.1"N 12°05'56.0"E
    UTM
    33T 277908 5167615
    w3w 
    ///concentration.skiffs.command
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Recommended maps for this region:

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    Equipment

    Crampons or snow chains and possibly an ice axe for the snowy gully; only one piton found for abseiling; those securing at II+ level ideally need a 50m rope and possibly slings for intermediate protection

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    II+T5 difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    12.3 km
    Duration
    3:16 h
    Ascent
    1,346 m
    Descent
    1,341 m
    Highest point
    3,015 m
    Lowest point
    1,682 m
    Out and back Scenic Summit route Insider tip Ridge

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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