Alpine climbing in the Allgäu

The Allgäu region offers countless opportunities for climbers. There are many day destinations, but also multi-day destinations such as the areas around the Prinz-Luitpold-Haus or the Waltenberger Haus. Since there are also many mountain schools on-site, especially for those with little alpine experience, one can also hire a mountain guide.

Name, Climbing Height, Orientation, Difficulty Grades

Ammergau Alps:

• Hochplatte, 220 m, NW, VI+ to VII+

• Kenzenkopf North Side, 150 m, N, VII to IX+

• Kenzenkopf Southeast Wall, 190 m, SE, VI+ to IX-

• Geiselstein South Wall, 200 m, S, V to IX-

• Geiselstein East Wall, 350 m, E, V+ to IX-

• Geiselstein North Wall, 400 m, N/NW, V to VII

• Geiselstein West Wall, 140 m, W/SW, III to VIII

• Kräh, 250 m, N/NW, VI+ to IX-

• Niederer Straußberg, 110 m, W, VI+ to VIII

• Franziskaner, 80 m, S/SE, VI- to X-

• Torschrofen, 150 m, N, VIII+/IX-

• Hoher Straußberg, 250 (320) m, E/W, IV to VII-

• Pilgerschrofen, 300 m, N, IV to VI+

• Säuling, 200 m, E/W/SW, IV to VIII-

• Kleiner Säuling, 200 m, SW, VI+/VII- to VII+/XIII-

• Großer Zunderkopf, 280 m, NW, VIII-/VIII to IX

• Kleiner Zunderkopf, 170 m, N, VII-

Upper Allgäu:

• Lachenspitze, 100 (270) m, N, VII- (KS III)

• Bschießer, 150 m, S, V+ to VI+

• Fuchskarspitze, 80 (200) m, W/E, III+ to VII-

• Wiedemerkopf, 150 m, N/W, VII- to VIII

• Klupperkarturm, 50 m, SE, V-

• Wildengrat, 140 m, N, VI+

• Schneck, 220 m, E, VI+ to VIII

• Kleiner Daumen, 240 m, NE, IV

• Wengenköpfe, 120 (400) m, S/N, V- to VIII+/IX-

• Himmelhorn, 180 (950) m, S/W, VI to IX-/IX

• Kleiner Wilder, 180 m, SW, VI- to VIII

• Southern Höllhorn, 150 m, S, IV+

• Trettachspitze, 130 (400) m, W/N/E, III to VIII-

Near the alpine club huts or at many walls in the Allgäu and the Allgäu Alps, there are also climbing gardens with single and multi-pitch routes that are especially suitable after an alpine climbing tour to gain more climbing meters if a second alpine tour on the same day is no longer possible. In case of bad weather, there are several climbing and bouldering halls in the valley such as in Oberstdorf, Sonthofen, Kempten, Dietmannsried, Marktoberdorf, Rieden am Forggensee, and Kaufbeuren. Information on opening hours, prices, etc. can be found on the respective hall's website. 

Ammergauer Alps: The routes in the Ammergauer Alps are secured according to the respective spirit of the times of the developers and were not drilled with sport climbing-like bolt spacing. Many routes have been renovated, but this does not mean that additional protection points have been added. Only the existing bolts have been renovated. For this reason, you will hardly find alpine sport climbing routes in the Ammergauer Alps climbing routes. To have fun, it is important to be capable of the required difficulty level. A few nuts and friends are useful in almost all areas of the Ammergauer Alps, sometimes even absolutely necessary. Therefore, one should be skilled in handling mobile protection equipment.

Oberallgäu: The protection of alpine climbing routes in Oberallgäu is quite heterogeneous. There are well to very well secured routes on the Fuchskarspitze and the Schneck east face. Nuts and friends are therefore not always necessary, but in some routes definitely advisable or even absolutely necessary. Often, the harder pitches are well to very well secured, while easier ones are equipped with fewer bolts, so one should also be capable of the required difficulty level here. The protection on the Himmelhorn, in the Wilde Group and on the Trettachspitze is partly very alpine and thus reserved for experienced climbers only.

The Allgäu is definitely worth a trip. Those who can handle the sometimes rather brittle rock or the craggy passages and are able to also improve protection mobile will have their fun here. The unique landscape and the impressions of the approach and descent also contribute to the overall experience.