Black Crack (Trettachspitze)

The Trettachspitze is one of the best-known and most impressive peaks in the Allgäu Alps and is also affectionately called the Allgäu Matterhorn. On beautiful summer days it is mainly climbed via the northwest or northeast ridge. The climbing routes on the west face are climbed less often. The "Black Crack" is the easiest route through the west wall and was first climbed in 1935 by Kaspar Schwarz and companions. It offers 6 pitches in steep, adventurous climbing, often in the upper fifth difficulty grade (partly III and IV) on mostly solid rock except for the 1st pitch. Route finding is occasionally not easy. The belays are almost all equipped with two bolts, and in the pitches there are a total of five bolts, some pitons, and two sand clocks. It can and should be improved with nuts and slings. Mastery of the fifth difficulty grade is definitely required, even if the last piton is 10 meters away. Overall, a very rewarding alpine undertaking in the heart of the Allgäu Alps.