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Alpine Climbing Premium content Alpine Climbing · Allgäu

Geiselstein, south corner (V-)

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  • Route course of the south chimney
    Route course of the south chimney
    Photo: Christian Reiser, Outdooractive Editors
moderate
Distance 25.4 km
8:00 h
975 m
975 m
1,884 m
826 m
Classic climbing on the sunny side of the "Ammergau Matterhorn." Thoroughly renovated and very well secured at the hardest sections.

The south corner at Geiselstein (V-) leads in 8 pitches over 240 climbing meters to the Geiselstein (1884 m). The first three pitches consist mostly of loose rocky terrain requiring careful footing. The bolt spacing is noticeably larger on the easier pitches than in the very well-secured key pitches. The key move in the 4th pitch is a now somewhat polished ramp that opens from a small chimney. The following easier pitches lead in a logical sequence of corners to the summit. The exit pitch again includes loose rocky terrain. Start From Geiselsteinsattel, descend south and cross a scree slope until the south face bends westward. The start of the south corner is located on the west-exposed wall section to the left of a memorial plaque installed there (note: not the plaque directly at Geiselsteinsattel!). Route Progression (UIAA) Pitch 1: II Pitch 2: IV Pitch 3: II Pitch 4: V- Pitch 5: IV Pitch 6: IV+ Pitch 7: IV+ Pitch 8: IV- Descent The descent is via the normal

Localization

Parts of this content were machine translated from German.
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Profile picture of Christian Reiser Author Christian Reiser 
A dream without a plan is just a wish.

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