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Alpine Climbing Premium content Alpine Climbing · Allgäu

Ballisto - Geiselstein south face

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  • Wanker Fleck
    Wanker Fleck
    Photo: Isabelle Ernst, Outdooractive Editors
difficult
Distance 25.2 km
10:00 h
986 m
986 m
1,728 m
826 m

Very beautiful multi-pitch route consistently in the 6th grade on the south face of the Geiselstein, which ends directly at the summit cross.

The route consists of 6 pitches, which, except for one pitch, are in the mid to upper 6th grade.

The rock quality is mostly compact and very good, although slightly brittle in some places (ledges).

1st pitch (6) + 2nd pitch (6+) Approx. 45 meters long if you don't use the intermediate belay (after about 20 meters). Steep but well-grippy wall climbing with the crux at the last bolt. Then belay on a ledge, slightly trending right. (Attention: scree/rockfall) 3rd pitch (5) Good grip but beware of some loose rock (especially on the ledge). Leads jaggedly right to the belay. 4th pitch (6) Initially straight steep upwards, then briefly traverse right and up a slab. (Sandglass sling). Belay on ledge. (Another belay 5 m further right above jagged terrain) 5th pitch (6+) Over the jagged terrain to the slab. Very compact. Distances may be a bit longer than in previous pitches. After the slab, slightly right to the belay. 6th pitch Following the crack-corner straight up, then a few meters after the crux (Piaz rise) left over terraced ground to the summit cross. Build belay here and rappel or secure again.

Localization

Parts of this content were machine translated from German.
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Profile picture of Isabelle Ernst Author Isabelle Ernst
Den Mutigen gehört das Leben.

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