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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Reutte Nature Park Region

Aggenstein southwest edge

Responsible for this content
DAV Sektion Frankfurt/Main Verified partner 
  • Aggenstein with Bad Kissinger hut
    Aggenstein with Bad Kissinger hut
    Photo: Christoph Schumacher, DAV Sektion Frankfurt/Main

Selected alternatives for you
    Nice climbing route with difficulties up to 4- on the south side of the Aggenstein in mostly good rock with a short approach from the Bad Kissinger Hut.
    easy
    Distance 1.4 km
    3:00 h
    239 m
    245 m
    1,983 m
    1,788 m

    Popular, moderately well protected climbing route on mostly solid rock on the southwest edge of the Aggenstein. The first 5 pitches lead to the south summit, the last pitch conveys the transition to the main summit.

    Difficulty: up to 4- (1 section), mostly 3 and easier. Orientation relatively easy, plenty of additional protection possibilities on rock heads or with nuts and friends.

    Author’s recommendation

    • If you still have enough time, another route on the south side of the Aggenstein can be easily added
    • Due to the southern exposure, the tour is rather unsuitable for hot days. On such days it is better to switch to the north side, e.g., the Kemptner Edge: Aggenstein Kemptner Edge
    Difficulty
    IV- easy
    Overall difficulty
    easy

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    Aggenstein, 1,983 m
    Lowest point
    Bad Kissinger Hut, 1,788 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    90 m, 0:30 h
    Wall height
    150 m
    Climbing length
    280 m, 2:30 h
    Descent
    200 m, 0:30 h
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    6
    First ascent
    unknown

    Track types

    Forested/wild trail 1.97%Path 79.61%No marked trail 14.25%Secured trail 4.15%
    Forested/wild trail
    28 m
    Path
    1.1 km
    No marked trail
    200 m
    Secured trail
    58 m
    Show elevation profile

    Tips and suggestions

    good topo on bergsteigen.com

    Roadbook

    Approach:
    From the Bad Kissinger Hut initially on the hiking trail to the Aggenstein up to the first hairpin bend. There, take a path diagonally left through the meadow, along the start of the southeast ridge onto a grassy ridge, descend a bit on it, then cross diagonally right under the rocks on the south flank of the Aggenstein until a grass ledge with rock outcrops is reached just before the southwest edge. Here the path ends, and you pass several closely spaced belay stations (bolt hangers) of climbing routes. The last of these belay stations is that of the southwest edge.
    Time required for approach: approx. 1/2 hour.

    The Route:

    The route has a total of 6 pitches. All belay stations (except the lowest) consist of 2 bolt hangers and are spacious enough to accommodate a second rope team. Bolt distances are mostly between 6 and 9 m, which is enough to find the route well; in between there are always good possibilities for additional protection.

    1. Pitch: (45m, 3)
      First on the grass ledge up to the edge, then straight upwards on the right side of it with few intermediate bolts but good protection possibilities to the belay.
    2. Pitch (40m, 3+/4-)
      Initially slightly right of the edge, then a bit further right on a slab. Over this onto a ledge below a steep bulge which is overcome at its weak point (a kind of groove, 1 bolt) (3+ to 4-, crux). Easier above to the belay.
    3. Pitch (45m, 3+)
      Above the belay briefly steep (3+), then clearly easier climbing close right of the edge upwards to the belay at a ledge.
    4. Pitch (50m, 3)
      Easily onto a ridge step, then over a steep step again just right of the edge to the belay.
    5. Pitch (45m, 3)
      Further slightly right of the ridge, no longer steep but rather inclined, to the south summit with bolt at the highest point.
      This pitch can also be bypassed on the left of the SW edge via grass ledges and rock outcrops.
    6. Pitch (30m, 3- and easier)
      From the south summit initially down in hiking terrain to the notch between south and main summit (protection possible but not necessary) to the belay.
      Here a short steep step (3-) upwards, then increasingly easier and flatter to a spur of the main summit (belay bolt). From there hiking terrain to the main summit.
      We found this section so easy that we were not belaying anymore.
      Rappelling southeast in the notch is not very useful as you end up in steep grassy terrain. Better to continue to the main summit.

    Time required for the route: approx. 2 1/2 hours

    Descent:
    On the well-traveled hiking trail, which is secured with a cable in the upper part, back to the Bad Kissinger Hut, approx. 1/2 hour.

    Rest stop
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    Photo
    Video
    Aggenstein (1987m)
    Blick übers Tannheimertal bis zum Vilsalpsee
    Aussicht auf Forggensee nähe Aggenstein
    Aussichtshighlite übers Allgäu - Deutsches Alpenvorland - Seen - Füssen
    Aggenstein Peak

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    • Bus line 120 from Oberjoch or Reutte to Grän (see bus timetable Tannheimer Tal) for ascent via Bad Kissinger Hut.
    • Regional train to Pfronten-Steinach, from the station a few minutes to the valley station of the Breitenberg cable car (for ascent from Pfronten)

    Directions

    • Access to Tannheimer Tal via Oberjoch or Reutte to Grän, district Enge (when ascending from Tannheimer Tal)
    • Access to Pfronten-Steinach, Breitenberg cable car (when ascending from Pfronten)

    Parking

    • When ascending from the Tannheimer Tal: Lumberg parking lot (paid)
    • When ascending from Pfronten: parking lot at the cable car valley station

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.534483, 10.562746
    DMS
    47°32'04.1"N 10°33'45.9"E
    UTM
    32T 617617 5265745
    w3w 
    ///tray.candle.building
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendations for this region:

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    Recommended maps for this region:

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    Equipment

    • 50m rope (single or double)
    • 6 quickdraws, max. 10 if high safety needs
    • Stoppers and friends (rather small and medium sizes)
    • some slings

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    IV- easy
    Overall difficulty
    easy

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    1.4 km
    Duration
    3:00 h
    Ascent
    239 m
    Descent
    245 m
    Highest point
    1,983 m
    Lowest point
    1,788 m
    Public-transport-friendly Round trip Scenic Refreshment stops available Flora Summit route Ridge Slab Descending on foot Pleasure

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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