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Alpine Climbing
· Reutte Nature Park Region
Aggenstein southeast ridge (hut ridge)
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The Hüttengrat, seen from the hiking trail to the AggensteinPhoto: Christoph Schumacher, DAV Sektion Frankfurt/Main
Simple, moderately well protected climbing route on mostly solid rock at the southeast ridge of the Aggenstein. The first 4 pitches lead to the south summit, the last pitch provides the transition to the main summit.
Difficulty: up to 3-, mostly 2 / 2+. Orientation is very easy, as it always follows the ridge. Plenty of additional protection possibilities on rock edges or with nuts and friends. The route can be easily aborted at the 3rd belay station in case of weather change.
Author’s recommendation
- If the route is too easy, after the 2nd pitch one can traverse somewhat left descending over grass to the start of the "East Tangent" and climb this in 3 short pitches over steep slabs (4+) parallel to the southeast ridge to the south summit.
- After the route, if you have the whole day, you can easily add another climb on the south side of the Aggenstein, e.g. the or the
- Due to the southern exposure, the route is less suitable for hot days. On such days better to switch to the north side, e.g. the
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
The rock is not always completely solid. Since you are moving along the ridge, the risk of rockfall is very limited.Tips and suggestions
Good topo of the route on bergsteigen.comRoadbook
Approach:
From the Bad Kissinger Hut initially follow the hiking trail to the Aggenstein to the first hairpin bend. There, take a path diagonally left through the meadow to the start of the southeast ridge. The bolt for the first belay station is located on the left.
Approach time: approx. 20 min.
The route:
The route has a total of 5 pitches. All belay stations except the lowest consist of 2 bolts; each belay station has enough space for a second rope team. The first 4 pitches lead to the south summit of the Aggenstein, the 5th pitch is the transition to the main summit.
- Pitch (45m, 3-, mostly 2): From the belay climb a few meters steeply up the bulge (3-), then flatter along the ridge to the next belay station.
- Pitch (40m, mostly 2): Continue along the ridge to a distinctive grassy break / notch. The belay station is where the ridge begins again above this.
- Pitch (45m, 3- and 2+): Along the now steeper and exposed edge with some intermediate bolts to a belay in a niche.
- Pitch (45m, 2): Continue along the edge, getting easier and flatter upwards to the south summit, where there is a belay.
- Pitch (30m, 3- and easier): From the south summit initially descend on walking terrain to the notch between the south and main summit (protection is possible but not necessary) to the belay station. Then climb a short steep section (3-) upwards, then increasingly easier and flatter to a spur of the main summit (bolt). From here on walking terrain to the main summit. We found this section so easy that we did not use protection. Rappelling down to the southeast in the notch is not very useful, as you end up in steep grassy terrain. Better to continue to the main summit.
Descent:
Follow the well-used hiking trail, which is secured by wire ropes in the upper section, back to the Bad Kissinger Hut, approx. 1/2 hour.
Blick übers Tannheimertal bis zum Vilsalpsee
Aggenstein Peak
Aussichtshighlite übers Allgäu - Deutsches Alpenvorland - Seen - Füssen
Aussicht auf Forggensee nähe Aggenstein
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
- Bus line 120 from Oberjoch or Reutte to Grän (see Tannheimer Tal bus schedule) if approaching via Bad Kissinger Hut.
- Regional train to Pfronten-Steinach, from the station a few minutes to the valley station of the Breitenberg cable car (if approaching from Pfronten)
Directions
Access to Tannheimer Tal via Oberjoch or Reutte to Grän, district Enge (when approaching from Tannheimer Tal)
Access to Pfronten-Steinach, Breitenberg cable car (when approaching from Pfronten)
Parking
when approaching from the Tannheimer Tal: Lumberg parking lot (paid)
when approaching from Pfronten: parking lot at the cable car valley station
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
- Achim Pasold, Alpine Climbing Guide Allgäu including Tannheimer Mountains, Panico Verlag 2020
Extensive work for the entire Allgäu Alps, topos and approaches but unfortunately not very precise, and difficulty ratings in our impression not always consistent with other areas within the Tannheimer Mountains - Toni Freudig, Climbing around the Aggenstein, 2002
Contains all routes on the Aggenstein, only available at the Bad Kissinger Hut - Topo on bergsteigen.com
Good and detailed topo in a route description Southwest Ridge
Author’s map recommendations
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
- 50m rope (single or double)
- 6 quickdraws, max 10 if higher safety needed
- Stoppers and friends (mostly small and medium sizes)
- some slings
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions