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Long Distance Hiking recommended route Stage 19 Long Distance Hiking  · Cserhátvidék Open

Becske - Mátraverebély (OKT-19)

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  • Photo: Barna Burger, Hungarian Hiking Association

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    The Blue Trail reaches the more scenic part of the Cserhát. Amidst gently rolling forested hills, friendly villages preserve the atmosphere of decades past beneath wide pastures. Steeply climbing but on low volcanic hills, we can admire a chain of views opening onto one of the country’s most charming regions.

    Open
    difficult
    Distance 73.8 km
    22:40 h
    2,400 m
    2,455 m
    578 m
    176 m

    Walking among the pleasantly rolling, gentle hills and small, quiet villages, we might not imagine what wild, untamed events shaped this landscape, free of natural extremes today. The enormous roar of volcanos with various activity and their hot lava flows made this region dynamic. Today, the volcanism from millions of years ago defines the eastern section of the Cserhát Blue Trail. We can see traces all around us: in the dark building stones of Hollókő Castle, in the foundations of the beautiful Old Village houses, in the fossilized lava flows of Szanda, or in the rocky trail sections of the Tepke ridge. Meanwhile, we cross through an extensive but deeply carved forest area by valleys.

    The industrially neglected Nógrád rolling area lacks big cities, while the mountain basin preserves the imprints of ancient times. Perhaps no other part of the country shows so strikingly in close proximity the coexistence of centuries-old architectural traditions, socialist era forced and layered village developments, and increasingly visible post-transition decline and despair mood. Of course, new holiday homes now advertise the appearance of tourism in places, but the settlement image of Cserhát still feels like a strange time travel.

    During our hike, we climb up to the summit of Szanda adorned with castle ruins, from where we must not miss the detour to the hilltop! The rockslide with columnar jointed andesite on the hillside hints at the volcanic origin and is a true geological delicacy. From above, we can observe the typical Cserhát landscape, immediately noticeable by its segmented nature: low heights covered by forest and pastures and fields in lower areas, with tiny villages hidden among them.

    Descending to Szandaváralja and Terény, we enter beautiful Palóc rows of houses, then drill into the largest forest of the area from the slightly faded Cserhátsurány. Passing Nógrádsipek, we climb a pleasant valley beyond volcanic peaks breaking through sedimentary rocks, then take a small detour to visit the great panoramic view from Dobogó-tető. Besides the Upper Hungary mountains, the next region, Mátra, also appears.

    After viewing the snail-shaped castle of Hollókő on the ridge and its panorama, we stroll the cobbled main street of the Old Village, passing one of the country's most beautiful UNESCO World Heritage sites. Visiting two more small villages is followed by conquering the wild paths of Tepke, geologically belonging to Mátra, with our highest peaks dominating the landscape. Descending further, Mátra’s massive bulk looks bigger and more inviting. But first, we visit villages nestled among new small Cserhát hills before reaching Mátraverebély and crossing the landscape boundary marked by the river Zagyva.

    The detailed route description can be read under the Description menu.

    Author’s recommendation

    • Do not miss the Szanda castle visit, it is only a 10-20 minute detour from the Blue Trail!
    • Terény features a unique exhibition, the Orsósmagnó Museum, worth dedicating time to!

    Section lengths between stamps (in kilometers)

    Becske  6  Szandaváralja  10.1  Cserhátsurány  10.5  Nógrádsipek  11.5  Hollókő  10.3  Bableves csárda  13.6  Nagybárkány  12.4  Mátraverebély

    Recommended intermediate boarding and alighting points along the route

    • Szandaváralja (OKTPH_93): Szandaváralja, cooperative beverage store bus stop
    • Cserhátsurány (OKTPH_94_1, OKTPH_94_2): Cserhátsurány, savings cooperative bus stop
    • Nógrádsipek (OKTPH_95_1, OKTPH_95_2): Nógrádsipek, bus station bus stop
    • Hollókő (OKTPH_96_1, OKTPH_96_2): Hollókő, bus station bus stop
    • Near Bableves csárda - Alsótold (OKTPH_97): Kozárd, Nagyméző junction bus stop
    • Nagybárkány (OKTPH_98_1): Nagybárkány, town hall bus stop
    Difficulty
    difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    Tepke, 578 m
    Lowest point
    Zagyva valley, 176 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
    Nov
    Dec

    Track types

    Length
    73.8 km
    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Aranybakancs Vendégház & Bisztró
    Castellum Hotel Hollókő - Mikszáth Étterem
    Szent Jakab Étterem

    Safety information

    • Climbing the Tepke lookout tower is prohibited in stormy weather!

    Roadbook

    Itinerary

    Throughout the route, we must follow the K mark.

    • The K mark climbs up to the base of Szanda peak, then descends to Szandaváralja.
    • From Szandaváralja, passing through Terény, we go to Cserhátsurány.
    • From Cserhátsurány, we climb over to Nógrádsipek.
    • From Nógrádsipek, the Blue Trail climbs into Dobogó-nyereg and arrives at Hollókő.
    • From Hollókő, we rollercoaster through Szár-hegy to Felsőtold, then also pass through Alsótold.
    • From Alsótold, we turn to the Bableves csárda.
    • From Bableves csárda, we climb up to Tepke, then from there the Blue Trail leads to Nagybárkány.
    • From Nagybárkány, via visiting Sámsonháza, we reach Mátraverebély Szentkút.
    • After Szentkút, we visit Mátraverebély.

    Details about the route

    Becske - Szandaváralja

    We start from the airy center of Becske and head out through the street towards the village edge. We go up through a forest alley and then reach open terrain: from the hilltop, to the left, we can see Szanda rising steeply and to the right, the mined Berceli mountain. We approach the summit on a nice path, crossing the abandoned mine service road in between. Upon reaching the saddle, take a detour to the right on the KL mark to visit the castle!

    Before the castle, on an exposed section of the hillside, the trail is bordered by a railing: beyond it, we can see a real geological sensation. The rock draping the hillside in a folded manner is andesite, whose columnar separation is rare across the continent, as this formation is generally typical of basalt – a similar sight can be seen near Bér. The molten rock pushing upwards flowed into cracks and fissures of the overlying sedimentary rocks, where it cooled and solidified into rock. It contracted while cooling and took its visible appearance today. The volcanic rock slowly emerged from the surrounding faster eroding environment and was exposed due to mining activities, revealing this unique formation.

    Not much remains of the castle: only a fragment of the former residential tower wall stands lonely on the peak. From here, the view is splendid: the landscape ripples from Börzsöny to Mátra, and on clear days the characteristic peaks of the Buda and Visegrád Mountains can easily be identified. Descending, we soon exit the forest and broad pastures take over on the hillside. We leave a beautiful panorama behind as we step into the rows of houses of the charming holiday village of Szandaváralja. The stamp can be found in the village center at the OKK information board!

    Szandaváralja - Nógrádsipek

    From the small but beautiful village, we climb onto a hill ridge. Enjoying views among patches of forest and hill scenery, we arrive at Terény. The village's pride is about 80 old houses with hip roofs. From here, we ascend the ridge of the next low range, from which we get a panorama of Cserhátsurány and the larger mountainous area rising east of it.

    From the settlement, we ascend on the old cart road that once connected to Szécsény, gaining altitude with pleasant views of Herencsény, a valley opening in multiple directions at the meeting of valleys. We walk on a low hill ridge and climb one more hill before Nógrádsipek, from where magnificent views open at several points. We descend deep into the hill world, where in the secluded valley village time seems to have stood still for a few decades. Nonetheless, a beautiful, forested environment frames the rows of houses, and the stamp is located on an information board at the edge of a park.

    Nógrádsipek - Hollókő

    Though we travel among hills barely over 500 meters high, the streams of the largest contiguous forest area of Cserhát can produce violent floods at times, as indicated by the reservoir created in the valley. We climb a beautiful, increasingly narrow valley; the andesite rocks lying in the bed already signal the volcanic heights of the mountain massif. To the right, the K● mark branches off; about 800 meters detour leads to Dobos-kút, which is not only a reliable and drinkable spring but also a great bivouac hut if spending the night outdoors. After reaching Dobogó-nyereg, a barely 10-minute detour to the right (marked S and then S▲) leads to the Dobogó-tető lookout: from the ruins of the dangerous geodetic tower, the most beautiful panorama around opens. Besides a significant part of the North Hungarian Mountains, the mountains of the Upper Hungary region appear, and we can enjoy views all the way to the High Tatras.

    The path leads downhill through a turf-covered oak forest to Hollókő. We reach Sós-puszta; from its pasture gate, we can gaze at a typical Cserhát scene: a mosaic of low, forested ridges, valley-side clearings, and inhabited basins form the landscape. (Walk out to the corner of the dirt road running along the upper edge of the field! From here, the northern part of Nógrád and the mountains of Slovakia can also be seen.) We enter the forest again and descend to Hollókő's Old Village. The Palóc rows of houses belonging to the World Heritage were built after the great fire in 1909. Strolling along the cobblestone main street, we finally turn back at the bus stop to József Attila street, where we can stamp at the Blue Trail information board set up next to the patch of terrain.

    Hollókő – Bableves csárda

    It is worth spending a few hours visiting the castle ruins in Hollókő, which contain unusually airy and detailed architectural features. From the hillside behind the castle, a wide panorama reveals itself: to the north, the southern ridges of the Slovak Carpathians, the higher areas of the Gömör-Szepesi Ore Mountains are visible. Returning to the Blue Trail, we take on the ridge of Szár-hegy. The forest is dissected by barren, bushy areas, from which we can look out over the valley below and the high ridge of Tepke. We follow a narrow path, then descend the hillside to admire again the next target (the Tepke ridge), which offers a view free from clearings. We reach only the edge of Felsőtold, cross the meadows, and then enter Alsótold. These two villages nestled in a small valley basin boast one of the most idyllic locations in the Cserhát Mountains.

    The K mark turns into the valley of Alsó-szurdok. This may once have been a true gorge, but due to the asphalt road winding on the opposite side of the creek, little of this remains perceptible today. We arrive at Bableves csárda, which is both a cozy restaurant and a stamping place. From here begins the most rugged and mountainous section of the Cserhát Blue Trail, indeed no coincidence: we climb the higher peaks of the mountain range, whose volcanic-origin ridges geologically belong to the Mátra.

    Bableves csárda - Nagybárkány

    We cross a small plateau on a plowed field, already spotting the Tepke lookout tower from the open meadow. Entering the forest, we take a small loop to reach the ridge, and climb steeply to the 567-meter-high Tepke. The steel tower offers a magnificent view: before us unfolds the whole hilly, colourful Cserhát, and the massive body of Börzsöny is clearly visible, as well as, if lucky, the lower stripes of the Visegrád and Buda Mountains. In the opposite direction, the massive ridges of Mátra form a wall, and with our gaze, we can search for the country’s two highest points, Galya-tető and Kékes. To the north, the flat plateau of Bükk, Karancs, and on clear days the Upper Hungary mountains swell.

    After the lookout, we tread a memorable steep-sided ridge path. We rollercoaster over the highest point, Purgá, and after Macska-hegy, we look out from a rocky ridge to Garáb. Finally, we descend steadily, and the path passes beside many springs bursting from beneath volcanic rocks on the hillside. Arriving above Nagybárkány, a lasting landscape welcomes us: initially, only the church tower peeks above the grassy hills, and the village appears only later, while in the background, the huge mass of Mátra shines blue. The stamp can be found in the shop at Petőfi street 48 in the village.

    Nagybárkány – Mátraverebély

    We climb another hill, and again the panorama is like a fairy tale: behind the outermost mountain ranges of Cserhát, the Mátra emerges. At the end of a meadow, we reach asphalt and pass the famous Sámsonháza quarry. Mining revealed a memorable geological phenomenon: the layers of volcanic activity stages are stacked, painting the cliff in different colors, with grainy and more uniform bands, topped by the white limestone paste of later marine transgression.

    We say goodbye to the typically small Cserhát villages at Sámsonháza, first crossing a creek valley, then a small watershed, to arrive at the Szentkút shrine. Legend says that here King Saint Ladislaus I’s fleeing horse's hoof caused the healing spring water to flow from the ground. By the renovated, shady pilgrimage site, it is worth exploring the small canyon valley of the Saint Ladislaus Rift and the hermit cave carved into volcanic rock and tufa. A short forest walk leads us to Mátraverebély, where we cross the Zagyva River and thus enter the Mátra area. The stamp can be found on the stairs of the Town Hall at the corner of Vasút street and Rét street.

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    • To Becske lower railway stop, you can get there by one of the trains running between Aszód and Balassagyarmat.
    • Arriving at the Becske, Nógrádkövesd junction bus stop, we can start the hike from the village center.
    • Trains run to the Mátraverebély railway stop from Salgótarján and Hatvan.
    • From the Mátraverebély, espresso bar bus stop, we can travel toward Salgótarján or Hatvan, but there is also direct bus connection to Budapest.

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    Becske - Mátraverebély (OKT-19)

    Directions

    • From the overgrown Becske railway platform, we need to start northeast along the edge of the road to reach the village center.
    • The bus stop in Becske is located along the Blue Trail.
    • In Mátraverebély, at the bus stop, we find the Blue Trail at the intersecting street; it also touches the railway station.

    Parking

    • It is worth parking at Szentkút in Mátraverebély, which the Blue Trail also passes through.
    • We can park in the village center of Becske.

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.910188, 19.376132
    DMS
    47°54'36.7"N 19°22'34.1"E
    UTM
    34T 378658 5307594
    w3w 
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    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Author’s map recommendations

    • Cserhát tourist map (note that not all maps of Cserhát show the entire mountain range!)

    Equipment

    • Basic hiking equipment: boots, season-appropriate clothing, drinking water, food. For navigation use the Természetjáró app.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from Hungarian.

    User Questions

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    Status
    Open
    Difficulty
    difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    73.8 km
    Duration
    22:40 h
    Ascent
    2,400 m
    Descent
    2,455 m
    Highest point
    578 m
    Lowest point
    176 m
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