From panel block jungle to the royal castle - from Tatabánya to Tata over the mountains

Itinerary

• From the corner of Győri Road opposite Tatabánya railway station and Álmos Vezér Street, we start in the direction of the Turul following the P markings on the latter.
• On the PΩ markings, we make a short detour to the Szelim Cave, then return the same way.
• We march along the P markings up to the junction before the Halyagos meadow.
• Before the Halyagos meadow, we turn left onto the S mark, hiking along it to the intersection of Baji Road and Diófa Street in the suburbs of Tata.
• Here, turning right, we continue along the yellow shell marks of the St. James Pilgrimage Route. These unique signs guide us to the end of our route, at the shore of Lake Öreg.

Detailed about the hike 

When the Tatabánya above ground lived from the one below ground

The city, considered the main work of socialist urban planning, was formed in 1947 by the unification of Alsógalla, Bánhida, Felsőgalla and Tatabánya—which became independent only in 1902. By then, the merging of the four neighboring villages had become necessary because the industrial-scale exploitation of local coal deposits starting at the end of the 19th century attracted masses of settlers; the population grew several times. Traditional farming was radically transformed, significantly changing the natural, economic and social conditions of the region. Mines and open-pit mining opened one after another, and many other factories and sectors appeared, creating the center of one of Hungary's industrial areas.

Development gained momentum in the decades of socialism, creating the unified city, whose significance was further increased by Tatabánya becoming the county seat. To create the new settlement, parts of the previous buildings and streets were removed, replaced by panel housing estates, socialist realist public buildings, residential districts, and "Kádár Baroque" style structures that dominate the cityscape to this day. By the mid-1980s, the population peaked at 80,000. That era ended then, remembered by locals as when "the Tatabánya above ground lived from the one below ground." Decline soon began as the coal deposits were depleted, and following regime change, heavy industry alongside mining also ceased.

Despite the crisis accompanying the collapse of the old world, Tatabánya managed to renew itself. Industrial parks were established, where numerous companies and factories settled due to favorable transport-geographical location, creating jobs. With the transformation of the environmentally damaging economic structure, the region became more livable, with progressive, extensive, nature conservation-based strategic developments occurring in the city. Traditions formed over time still live today—the solidarity among miners is exemplary. They preserve and pass on their customs and outlook to future generations. In Tatabánya and neighboring coal basin settlements, memorial plaques, statues, events, and displayed mining machinery remind us of the past.

Turul soaring over socialist realism

We start from the square in front of Tatabánya railway station, crossing under Győri Road by the pedestrian underpass. Emerging on the other side, we find ourselves at the mouth of Álmos Vezér Street, from where we follow the P markings past block houses. Opposite, you have a clear view of our first goal: the flat-topped, forest-covered ridge of Csúcsos-hegy – Kő-hegy. Among the trees, the limestone rocks of the mountain stand out strikingly white; on one peak poses the bronze Turul with outstretched wings, next to the entrance to the Szelim Cave. The eagle cliff, 150 meters higher than our position, falls steeply toward the Tata Valley.

Soon we reach the noise barrier wall of main road 1, cross the road, and then go under motorway M1. Next to the waterworks karst shaft begins the steeper climb, much of which is fought with a roughly 400-step staircase. Directly under the summit, the PΩ marking branches left onto a narrow cliff path leading to the nearby Szelim Cave. From its mouth you get a beautiful panorama of Tatabánya and the Vértes protrusions.

The spring cave, formed in Triassic limestone, is a large cavity of major archaeological significance and an important inspiration for local folklore. No lamp is needed to visit as it has several entrances—one even facing upward—through which daylight streams. Finds reveal it was a human dwelling from the Paleolithic to the Copper Age, containing remains of contemporary fauna too. Its best-known legend tells of seven village peoples fleeing here from the looting soldiers of Sultan Szelim, but the Janissaries found and killed the unarmed people. Information panels provide details about its formation and excavation.

Returning to the steps and climbing to the top, we stand beside the Turul monument. The largest bird depiction in Europe, it was erected as part of the millennium celebrations on the initiative of Komárom County. The monument, an important part of local identity, was unveiled in 1907 on the 1000th anniversary of the victorious battle of Bánhida. A contrast is formed by the ancient, mythological Hungarian symbol on its head, wearing the stylized Holy Crown and grasping Árpád's sword with claws, compared to the view of the socialist urban planning masterpiece, Tatabánya, stretching out below—two works, two eras. Their connection is symbolized by the Turul appearing centrally in the city’s coat of arms. A lookout area in front offers splendid views of the settlement and beyond.

Staying at the visitor center

The nearby Gerecse Kapuja Visitor Center aims to showcase the values of the mountain range and give a deeper understanding of the region. The central building fits well into its environment offering an interactive exhibition space, restaurant, gift shop, bike rental, and even equipment rental needed for via ferrata routes on the rocks under the Turul. Nearby, trails, rest and picnic areas, a playground, and an outdoor gym provide recreational opportunities. Three nature trails have been established where visitors can learn about the mountain’s flora, geology, related legends, and the history of national millennium monuments built at the end of the 19th century. The thematic routes can be explored with a downloadable mobile app offering content not visible on panels.

From here, we continue on the P marked tourist path, heading left from the visitor center building. This section coincides with the geological nature trail, so rock samples and information boards explain the sedimentary rocks building up the Gerecse Mountains. Slightly climbing through the park forest, we bypass the clearing leading to the Ranzinger lookout on the left, then descend the eastern slope of Csúcsos-hegy turning left at the fence of the Nagy-rét nursery. We step along a unique chestnut tree line by a straight steel net. To the right, in the Halyagos side, lies a wooded area called Polish Death, named after a tragic soldier fugitive of the 1848/49 freedom fight. We continue along a deep path embedded in loess amid young oak woods. Winds during the Ice Age scattered dust particles forming easily erodible rock, its formation aided by external forces and human traffic.

Our path leads into the narrow and deep Vaskapu gorge-like valley, where our trail begins climbing. The environment changes significantly from before: the sparsely vegetated valley sides are riddled with rock outcrops, the strikingly white limestone often covered by soft fresh green moss. After a bend, we spot a World War II military grave recalling the harsh battles fought in 1944/45 when the forest was less quiet.

On the trail, we step over stones and fallen branches broken by water or wind. Rainwater erosion scours both sides; in the upper loess layer we can admire the gnarled roots of trees still clinging to the edge. Approaching the gated fissure named after the prehistoric human site excavator, Vértes László Aknabarlang, the slope eases and we ramble through a slender young stand along a charming branch and leaf tunnel, following the light to the end. We pass the concrete-edged and iron-grated mouth of Arany-lyuk pit, then reach a crossroads. A resting bench invites us to sit, which is very tempting! It’s worth taking a breather under the trees.

Land of legends at Öreg-Kovács

We continue on the S marking along the edge of Halyagos meadow, and among trees glimpse the green flat area. Passing through oak groves, clearings, and logging areas, we leisurely climb to a stony road coming from Koldusszállás where we tread for the next kilometers. We walk on the highest ridge of the Western Gerecse, on the side of Öreg-Kovács. This mountain is significant not only for size but also folklore. One story says it was named after King Matthias who, disguised, met an old blacksmith here who hosted the simple man thought to be a clerk. After revealing himself, the just king rewarded the selflessness with gold.

Another legend relates to Sifliskő. The gingerbread maker was called siflis in Swabian. After the cart of a Tata craftsman heading to the market overturned, he furiously cursed but it backfired: he and his entire load turned to stone. The rock testifying to this stands on the mountain side. The wooded area called Simon Death refers to a forester Simon killed by poachers.

From the older heritage-rich, airy young woodland, partial panoramas open westward. The ridge base’s fields and villages show well the wind farm areas of Bábolna-Bőny and the silhoutte of the Győr TV tower.

We cross the mountain shoulder and winding through rocky beech forest arrive at the ruins of the St. Peter rotunda, where benches offer seating. Research suggests the Kovácsi village church founded in Árpád-era stood here, near which noble manor and cemetery were also excavated. Although buildings were destroyed during the Turkish era, the church reconstruction was built in the Agostyán Eco-village.

Passion to the vineyard hill

The next section involves nearly a 300-meter descent to the center of Baj, where we leave Gerecse and arrive in the lowland area. Continuing on the S mark, initially in beautiful forest surroundings, along a special section, we pass a mountain calvary. From the Golgotha group on top stretches a nearly 2 km-long Stations of the Cross. Its 14 stations, raised since 2008 by local Baj families who continuously care for them, are set in varied locations: on a clearing, among trees, on the hillside or near rocks, reminding of Christ’s suffering in reverse chronological order.

Alongside the tree trunks, we observe special marks of two long-distance pilgrimage routes beside the S mark: Via Margaritarum linking Mátraverebély and Máriacell, marked by a rosary, and the domestic section of the St. James pilgrimage (Camino Húngaro) marked by the yellow shell. Between Kecske and Reim hills, we start descending in a beautiful beech forest following a deepening intermittent stream trench. Navigating among floodwood and various sizes of rocks and rock outcrops, we descend to the first station of the Passion, then continue on eased terrain among the widely extended vineyards, cellars, and orchards of Baj hill. Leaving the forest, the landscape suddenly opens up and offers views. Right below us the church tower and colorful roofs of Baj are visible. Behind them gleams Lake Öreg with Tata Castle and other historic buildings on its shore, while the flatlands of the Little Hungarian Plain close the horizon.

The name Baj derives from Turkish, meaning rich, abundant. The village was destroyed during Turkish occupation then repopulated in the 18th century along with the whole area by the Esterházys who settled Germans. The count established a model farm and viticulture on the vineyard hill, which gained international fame. The Great Cellar built in 1754 could store 40,000 akó of wine and housed Central Europe’s largest wooden barrel of 2,150 akó (about 117,000 liters) capacity, handcrafted. Currently, around 70 hectares of vineyards are cultivated around Baj.

From brick to champagne

We walk down the well-kept vineyard hill on a loess path. The young rock deposited during the Pleistocene covers the western slopes of Gerecse and balances the landscape's unevenness. Highly fertile, good-quality soil formed from loess is ideal for grape growing and suitable for cellar construction due to its easy workability. At the hill foot, stepping onto an asphalt road, we walk toward Baj’s center. Crossing open fields, we see the twin towers of Tata’s large church and, in the other direction, view parts of the Gerecse ridge stretching south, including Kovács and Csúcsos-hegy. After the main square Catholic church, we turn onto Tata Road and walk parallel along the pavement past the town hall and several traditional houses. The village has a restaurant, grocery store, and bakery, so we can stock up from their offerings.

At the village edge, we bypass the former Soviet barracks and shooting range complex on the left and cross open land heading toward Tata. Clay layers lie beneath the surface along the road, upon which once-famous Tata brick and tile factories were built. The first brick kiln was established by the Esterházys in the 18th century.

Passing the Tóvároskert stop, we cross the Budapest-Győr railway line, then turn right after about 200 meters onto the yellow shell markings of the St. James Way. The linden tree avenue leads to the buildings of the noble estate champagne factory. The former distillery and brewery was converted in the early 20th century for noble drink production, with the main building including a ballroom for company gatherings. Other buildings served as stables, residences, and warehouses. The Tata champagne produced here was a popular and sought-after product.

Calming English Garden

Entering the famous English Garden area, we proceed along the fence of the Tata Training Camp. The fenced-off area, originally a lordly resting and pleasure garden, was given to athletes preparing for the 1948 London Olympics and has since provided high-level training opportunities for elite athletes.

Hungary’s first English-style garden was developed over decades from 1783. To create it, the wider area had to be transformed first. When the Esterházy family took ownership, the area was flat and marshy, fed by upwelling karst springs. Work included draining wetlands, building water channels, ditches, and dams, and establishing lakes among them. The terrain arrangement still shapes the cityscape, continued subsequently. One of Tata’s artificial lakes is the 18-hectare Lake Cseke, along whose southern shore we now stroll.

Unlike the French style gardens based on precise geometric shapes and predictability, the English fashion emphasizes natural irregularity. The focus is on contrasting impressions so that each branch and turn reveals a new landscape and mood to the walker’s eye. The artistically designed garden combines winding paths, streams, water surfaces, diverse plants, and different types of terrain. It also includes buildings in various styles, historicist structures, ruins, and stages along the pleasant paths and lawns. This contemplative garden brings extraordinary peace and a sense of nature to visitors. Today, Tata English Garden contains about 50 pine, 150 deciduous tree and shrub species and varieties. The massive plane trees and weeping willows are most striking, but truly exotic trees also appear along the walk.

Along the shore promenade, we pass the freshwater limestone-built Turkish mosque adorned with a crescent at the top; opposite it is the Kazinczy bench commemorating the poet’s visits. The stream flowing from the Mirror Spring merges with the Hell Spring’s waters, together feeding Lake Cseke nearby. Once significant karst water pumping around Tatabánya completely dried up the springs (they pumped water from Lake Öreg to Cseke), but now the water level rises again. Beside a narrow stone bridge, a Roman sanctuary gives an antique atmosphere, an arched grotto indents the hillside, with a carved stone altar at its center.

It’s worth making detours and exploring the park’s interior. Directional signs guide to the Little Castle, the Palm House, the open-air stage, the artificial caves, and other sights, with information available on them. Moreover, if time and mood allow, we can walk around Lake Cseke for a deeper immersion in the peace radiated by the place.

Several ruins incorporating various styles and building materials rise near the exit. Columns and pillar blocks from the Romanesque abbey ruins at Vérteszentkereszt, as well as bas-relief Roman tombstones, were incorporated in their construction.

On the streets of Tata

Leaving the park gate, the last leg of our hike leads through the streets of Tata to Lake Öreg. Via Damjanich Street marked by a World War I memorial, we reach Freedom Square, at the end turning right onto the city section of main road 1. We walk past beautifully renovated old public buildings, houses, and shops, and beside a centuries-old pharmacy building turn left onto Constitution Street. Crossing the stone bridge over Malom Creek, we arrive at the shore of the largest lake of the Tata lake system, Lake Öreg, now next to the castle.

Along the standing water, numerous monuments and other sights worth seeing await us: Tata, also called the city of living waters, is a treasury of natural and cultural values alike. If we still have time, we can stay here.