Under the wings of the Turul

 Itinerary

• Starting from the intersection of Győri út opposite Tatabánya railway station and Álmos vezér utca, we follow the P● mark along the latter street to the foot of Csúcsos Hill.
• At the fork below Csúcsos Hill, turn right onto the P▲ trail, which leads to the Turul Monument.
• We leave the Turul behind on the P marked stairway.
• We take the detour on the right marked PΩ to Szelim Cave, then return along the same path.
• We descend on the P trail back to Tatabánya railway station.

Detailed information about the hike

When above-ground Tatabánya lived off underground Tatabánya

The city, considered the main work of socialist urban planning, was created in 1947 by merging Alsógalla, Bánhida, Felsőgalla, and Tatabánya — which had only become independent in 1902. By that time, the merger of these four neighboring towns had become necessary because the industrial-scale coal mining starting at the end of the 19th century attracted masses of settlers, and the population multiplied many times. Traditional farming drastically transformed, significantly changing the area's natural, economic, and social conditions. Mines and open pits opened one after another, and numerous other industries emerged, creating one of Hungary's industrial hubs.

The development gained momentum during the socialist decades, forming the unified city and further enhancing its significance as Tatabánya became the county seat. To create the new settlement, many old buildings and streets were removed, replaced by panel blocks, socialist realist public buildings, housing estates, and “Kádár-barokk” style buildings that still dominate the cityscape. By the mid-1980s, the population peaked at 80,000. This era is remembered locally as the time when above-ground Tatabánya lived off underground Tatabánya. However, decline soon began as coal deposits were exhausted, and after the regime change, heavy industry also ceased alongside mining.

Despite the crisis following the collapse of the old world, Tatabánya managed to renew itself. Industrial parks were established benefiting from favorable transport geography, attracting many companies and creating jobs. With the restructuring of the environmentally damaging economic structure, the region became more livable, and forward-looking, broad, and nature conservation-based strategic developments are ongoing. However, traditions formed over time still live on today; the solidarity among miners serves as an example. They preserve and pass on their customs and outlook to later generations. Plaques, statues, events, and exhibited mining equipment in Tatabánya and the neighboring coal basin towns recall the past.

The largest is the Open-Air Mining Museum. Among the events, Miners’ Day is notable, commemorating the 1919 Tatabánya gendarmerie shooting, held annually since 1951.

From the housing estate to the forest

We start at the square in front of Tatabánya railway station, passing through a pedestrian underpass beneath Győri út. Emerging on the other side, we find ourselves at the mouth of Álmos vezér utca, from where we follow the P● signs, walking past block apartment buildings. Soon we turn left into Komáromi Street, planted with plane trees. Don't be confused by multiple circular colored marks painted alongside standard hiking signs! These indicate stages of the popular Gerecse 50 endurance hike, which we will encounter in coming kilometers.

Passing through Újváros, the residential and service buildings built in the 1950s-60s remind us of the formation of unified Tatabánya, when these structures were symbols of modernization. Along the route, we also find various shops where we can easily get anything needed. Turning right onto Kós Károly Street, we step onto a concrete slab pavement shaded by pine trees, then cross the main road 1, the motorway, and walk parallel to the noisy M1 motorway for a while.

On the other side, a much calmer scene awaits us: weekend houses and small gardens with vineyards and fruit trees spread on plots above, enticingly rising the target, the densely forested Csúcsos Hill and Kőhegy massif with the Turul Monument and the gaping mouth of Szelim Cave. Its highest point clearly shows the unique lookout tower rising above the trees. Turning right onto Áfonya Road, we begin to ascend, then following the concrete fence of the former sanatorium, we leave buildings behind and finally step into the forest. Among young, mixed trees on a loess deep path, we arrive at the János spring resting place. The monumental spring enclosure in the “land of iron and steel” style consists of massive natural stone retaining walls; next to the cold water drip, there are benches, tables, and a fire pit.

Heading to Csúcsos Hill!

After the forest rest area, we walk gently uphill on a forest road through oak woods in Farkas valley, then twist through dense growth. Crossing a dry valley, we soon reach the fork of the P▲ path leading up to the top of Csúcsos Hill. Turning right here, the most difficult section of the hike begins. The roughly 140-meter elevation gain through the hillside is further complicated because water erosion has severely damaged the surface of the winding upward path. We walk among exposed, cleared limestone rocks, typically on slippery, crumbly, and lumpy trails. We step over protruding roots and stones, sometimes pulling ourselves up on tree trunks or trying to find firm support on thicker roadside debris.

At the summit, we come to a small meadow surrounded by benches and tables, where we can catch our breath while our gaze is drawn to the sturdy steel structure rising in the center. This building, once a mining shaft tower, was erected here in 1980 after the mine—where a lift operated for decades—was closed. In the 2008 renovation, it was named after mining director Vince Ranzinger, whose monument also stands nearby. We can climb to the top of the 30-meter tower on stairs, from where there are far-reaching views beyond the adjacent Turul Monument, Tatabánya city, and the surrounding Gerecse peaks to the Kisalföld plain, Sokoró, Bakony, and Vértes mountain ranges, and even—just above the horizon—the elevations of the Little Carpathians over 100 km away. On the lookout level, we can also inspect miners and their equipment, including the impressive cable drum that moves their cages up and down.

Returning to the ground, we stroll along the Turul Park forest path toward the statue. Our comfortable gravel path descending from the plateau also serves as an educational trail, where we learn about the flora and fauna of Gerecse through stops. Soon we find ourselves at a crossroads where the P trail intertwines with our path; turning right from here, we continue on the combined P▲/P markers. We pass picnic areas and then enter the geological educational trail, where we can study the rocks composing the mountains with distinctive samples and information boards transported here. At the end of our promenade, a rain shelter indicates that we have arrived at the recreational park built as part of the Gerecse Kapuja visitor center, opened in August 2018. Here, we can use benches, a playground, a fitness park, and in the central building, we can visit the exhibition hall, eat at the restaurant, and use the restroom facilities.

The Turul and Szelim Cave

Returning to the stairs and climbing to the top, we stand beside the Turul Monument. It is Europe’s largest bird depiction, erected as part of the millennium celebrations on the initiative of Komárom County. The monument, an important part of local identity, was unveiled in 1907, commemorating the 1000th anniversary of the legendary victorious battle at Bánhida. Its head wears a stylized Holy Crown, and its claws hold Árpád's sword, creating an interesting contrast with the view below of Tatabánya, considered the greatest work of socialist urban planning; two creations, two eras remembered. Their connection is also shown as the Turul is a central figure in the city’s coat of arms. A lookout is built in its forecourt, offering splendid panoramas of the settlement and surrounding area.

Behind the base, a stairway leads left, marked P, back to the city center. After 100 meters, the PΩ trail branches off right, a narrow path along a rock rim leading to the nearby Szelim Cave. From its entrance, we get another good view, but after two lookouts, the cave itself is the main attraction. This spring cave formed in Triassic limestone is a large archaeological site and important inspiration for local folklore. No lamp is needed to explore, as it has multiple openings—including an opening facing upward to the sky—through which sunlight streams in. Excavated finds show the cave was inhabited from the Paleolithic to the Copper Age, with remains of contemporary fauna discovered. Its best-known legend says that seven villages’ inhabitants fled here from the raiding troops of Sultan Szelim, but janissaries found and killed the unarmed people. Information on its formation and excavation is provided on an installed information board.

Returning to the P path, we descend the stairs, cross under the M1 motorway, then cross the main road at the zebra crossing and arrive at the housing estate consisting of four-story panel buildings. It’s worth looking back here as the views of the Turul and the rock rim of Kőhegy from this perspective are exciting. With this view, we say goodbye to Gerecse; Tatabánya railway station is only a few minutes’ walk from here.