From the Hungarian Turul to the German gem

Itinerary

• From the Gerecse Kapuja, we hike on the P▲ trail to the northern foothills of Csúcsos Hill.
• On the P+ trail, we enter the Vaskapu Gorge.
• From the valley side, we switch to the P trail and continue on this to the border of Vértestolna.
• To the outermost houses, the P+, then on the main street of the village, the K+ signs guide us.
• After the church, we turn right onto the K● trail and follow it to the Bundschuh Well.
• From Bundschuh Well, the S● signs guide us back to the mountain.
• At the bend of the beggar's lodge access road, we turn right onto the S trail.
• Beside the ruins of the Kis-réti hunting lodge, we continue left on the P+ trail.
• We turn left at the edge of the Nagy-rét meadow, then continue on the P trail.
• We stroll past Gerecse Kapuja, then take the right branching PΩ trail towards Szelim Cave.
• On the PΩ and P trails, we return to Gerecse Kapuja.

Detailed description of the hike

Tatabánya and Gerecse Kapuja

Tatabánya, as the southwestern gateway settlement for tourism to Gerecse, earned a mixed reputation in the 20th century as a center of mining and industrial region in Hungary, facing several negative aspects. The significant environmental degradation primarily affected its surroundings and inhabitants, but impacts like the sharp decline of the karst water level, soil, and air pollution also harmed neighboring regions.

Although pollution has decreased drastically with economic restructuring, it will still take time for natural systems to recover and for the affected areas to be recultivated and revitalized. The city's focus on environmental and nature protection is highlighted by becoming Hungary's first climate-friendly settlement in 2007, starting an exemplary initiative. Several other beneficial investments have also been implemented, making Tatabánya more attractive to residents and visitors.

A recent development fitting this trend is the long-nurtured realization of the tourist visitor center. Opened in August 2018, Gerecse Kapuja's main goal is to showcase the values of the mountain range and familiarize visitors more deeply with the region. The central building blends well into its environment, housing interactive exhibition spaces, a restaurant, gift shop, bicycle rental, and even equipment rental for via ferrata routes on the rocks beneath the Turul. The surroundings have been renewed with trails, resting and picnic areas, playground, and outdoor fitness park offering recreational opportunities nearby.

Three educational trails have been established; hiking them reveals the mountain's ancient world, geology, associated legends, and the history of the national millennium monuments from the late 19th century. The thematic routes can also be explored using a mobile app, allowing access to content not visible on signs.

Csúcsos viewpoint

We start on the P▲ tourist path from the visitor center building to the left. The first section coincides with the geological trail, so with the help of rock samples and information boards placed along the way, we learn about the sedimentary rocks constituting the Gerecse mountains. We ascend slightly through the park forest to the opening leading to Csúcsos Hill, where we turn left and continue on another educational trail, this time diving into the area's animal and plant life.

On the plateau-like summit, a small meadow and resting place welcome us, from which a steel monument rises to the sky. The structure, formerly functioning as a mining tower, was erected here in 1980 after the mine—where a cable car operated for decades—closed. During renovation in 2008, it was named after mining director Vince Ranzinger, who has a monument at its base. We can climb stairs to the 30-meter-high tower's top, from where we can see the neighboring Turul monument, the city of Tatabánya, the surrounding Gerecse peaks, far into the Kisalföld plain, the Sokoró, Bakony, and Vértes ranges, and even the distant peaks of the Little Carpathians over 100 km away. At the lookout level, we can also observe the miners' large cable drum that moves their equipment up and down.

After taking in the views, we begin the most strenuous section of our hike, descending from Csúcsos Hill. The northern side has about 140 meters of elevation difference, and the trail surface is dotted with exposed roots and rocky outcrops due to heavy erosion. The slippery stone and loose soil further complicate the descent, so we should carefully and cautiously descend! If needed, use the thicker branches and trunks of roadside trees as handholds.

Limestone rocks in Vaskapu

At the bottom of the steep slope, a junction appears where we turn right onto the P+ trail, continuing on a section with a completely different character, ascending between Kovács and Csúcsos Hills. Narrow and deep gorge-like valley walls reveal rock fragments and even stone towers broken into plates in places; we enter a uniquely atmospheric rocky landscape. The valley called Vaskapu, deepened among the three ridges of Gerecse, reveals the rock material building the mountain range.

At a signposted junction, we note that we have joined the P trail and continue on it. The already mysterious atmosphere intensifies when around a bend we spot a World War II soldier's grave. The grave mound recalls the fierce battles of 1944/45 when the forest was far from silent. The sparsely vegetated valley slopes are full of smaller and larger rock outcrops; the strikingly white limestone is often covered with soft, fresh-green moss coating. On our path, we step over stones and stumble over water-borne or wind-broken tree branches. Runoff rains have eroded both sides, and we can admire the sprawling root system of trees still trying to hold on at the edge, as well as the upper loess layer deposited during the Pleistocene glaciation. The sediment material forming many sediment types found in Gerecse was scattered and deposited by strong winds in cold periods.

Reaching the Vértes László cave shaft closed with a door, named after the excavation of the prehistorical human site in Vérteszőlős, the ascent softens. We stroll through a slender young forest along a charming branch and leaf tunnel, following the light at the other end. We touch the mouth of the Arany Cave, reinforced with concrete rim and iron grid, then in level terrain find ourselves in the saddle between Kovács Hill and Halyagos. A bench invites us to sit down; let’s not resist, it’s worth taking a breath under the trees!

From the block to the basin

Still following the guidance of the P trail, we pass by the closed entrance of a sinkhole cave, then from the edge of the open Halyagos meadow we cross a hornbeam mixed oak forest. For a while, we trudge on a red limestone-covered access road, then start climbing the south side of the Kappan-beech ridge on a good oak soil road with a mild ascent. We reach a fenced clearcut offering a view of the Buda Hills and the peaks of Pilis. Turning onto a level trail, we continue in a silver-trunked forest with oak spotted with rocks, then shortly after begin a sharp right turn descent towards the Tardos-Vértestolna basin. We don’t have to wait long to see the village’s church and houses peeking out among trees.

From the junction at the foot of the vineyard hill, continuing on the P+ trail, we arrive at the village edge through orchards and wine cellars. As the landscape unfolds, the basin character of the region emerges clearly, framed by mountains from all sides around the settlement. Before reaching the center, a German language memorial plaque installed in 1943 reminds us of a tragic event and attests to the origins of Vértestolna’s residents.

Gem among the gemstones

Founded by Hungarians in the Árpád era, the village became a wasteland during the Turkish period, then was resettled with Germans by its landowner, Count József Esterházy, in the 18th century. The hardworking Swabians tidied up the wild area, kept animals, cultivated land, grew vineyards, and operated a mill in the secluded valley bordered by forested mountains. Until the end of World War II, almost exclusively they inhabited the houses, and they still make up about 40% of the population. The residents are proud of their past and present, preserving their culture and language. Tradition-preserving associations unite those striving and interested in this. The prefix of Vértestolna's name derives from the time when certain western parts of the mountain range were still considered part of the Vértes.

On the main street, switching to the K+ trail, we pass neat houses and orderly yards. Here we find a general store where we can inquire about visiting the local heritage house. In front of the mayor's office stands the tree of visible crafts, on which pictograms recalling old guild signs depict occupations and services performed here. On the lower part of its trunk, a 1938 plaque in gothic script with ornate German presents the village in two sentences, comparing it to a gem and the region to gemstones.

After the church, we turn right and leave Vértestolna behind along the K● trails. Between corn and sunflower fields, parallel to the Malom stream, we walk on a wide stone road towards Budschuh Well. From the open field, we have a good view of the basin framed amphitheater-like by blocks. Behind Vértestolna's rooftops, the Nagy-Gerecse flat back rises with its TV tower, while in other directions the rocky side of Kappan-beech, Halyagos, Őz-fej, and the forested ridges of Pes-kő culminate.

From the basin to the blocks

Besides the neatly maintained three-pipe drip of Bundschuh Well, a tiny clearing decorated with a totem pole nestles right on the stream bank. The idyllic environment and benches offer a good opportunity for a refreshing rest before returning to the mountain.

Starting on the S● trails, a wildlife protection metal fence joins us on the left, with the water of a fish pond flashing on the other side. Through the fence's gate (after passing, restore it to its original position!), we bid farewell to the open area and enter the forest. On a forest road, we begin climbing beautifully through an oak grove above the Malom stream valley, then wind on a sharp right turn on the southern side of Őz-fej. At a signposted crossroad, our footsteps land on a rocky road coming from Koldusszállás, and turning right onto the S trail, we trudge further on a moderate slope. Shortly, we arrive at the ruins of the former Kis-réti hunting lodge, at the edge of a handkerchief-sized clearing where a huge, spreading, ancient oak welcomes us with a bench at its base. Its backrest inscription refers to those living in or working for the forest: "Remember those who lived with the forest, and not only used it but also bore its burden!"

We ascend on the P+ trails to the southern shoulder of Halyagos, through a mixed forest of hornbeam and oak. Twice we cross an asphalt stripe of an access road, then passing under a few old oaks in descent, we turn left at the fence of the Nagy-rét nursery onto the P trail. One last ascent on the side of Csúcsos Hill brings us back to the familiar path from the start of our hike, from where following the geological trail, we stroll back to Gerecse Kapuja.

Turul and Szelim

We approach the Turul guarding the limestone cliff of Kő Hill from behind. Europe’s largest bird depiction was erected as part of the millennium celebrations initiated by Komárom county. The monument, an important part of local identity, was inaugurated in 1907 on the 1000th anniversary of the legendary Bánhida victorious battle. The ancient, mythological Hungarian symbol featuring the stylized Holy Crown on its head and grasping Árpád’s sword with its claws contrasts interestingly with Tatabánya’s cityscape below, considered the greatest work of socialist urban planning; two artworks, two era memories. Their connection is signified by the Turul being a central figure on the city’s coat of arms. In front, a lookout point is set up offering splendid panoramic views of the settlement and its broader surroundings.

Behind the pedestal, a stairs begin on the left, led by the P trail back to downtown. After 100 meters, the PΩ trail branches to the right; the path along the narrow rock edge leads to the nearby Szelim Cave. From its entrance, we get another fine panorama. This large karst cave formed in the Triassic limestone is a significant archaeological site and an important inspiration for local folklore. No lamp is needed to visit as it has several openings—including one facing up to the sky—through which sunlight streams. According to the excavated finds, the cave was inhabited from the Paleolithic to the Copper Age, where remains of contemporary fauna were also found. Its most famous legend tells of seven villages’ people fleeing here from the raiding troops of Sultan Szelim; however, the janissaries found them and killed the unarmed people. Information about its formation and excavation is displayed on an information board.

We return to Gerecse Kapuja the way we came, where we can linger or, if time and mood allow, explore other interesting spots in the area.