Budai Kilátások 20

Itinerary

• Start from the Gyermekvasút Széchenyi-hegy station following the Z▲ trail southeast, towards the radio tower.
• Where the trail forks near the radio tower, follow the Z+ trail for a short distance, then turn left onto an unmarked path. The path leads, after a barrier, to the asphalt strip of Farkasvölgyi út. Upon reaching Rege út, turn right, then immediately left at the next corner, passing the Széchenyi memorial, and return to the Gyermekvasút terminus.
• From the memorial, continue following the Z trail through Normafa to Anna-rét, where switch to the K↺ trail, which leads to the upper station of the Libegő cable car.
• From the cable car, follow the P trail all the way to Szépjuhászné.
• From Szépjuhászné, the S trail leads to Nagy-Hárs-hegy, then the S▲ trail to Kis-Hárs-hegy.
• Returning from the Makovecz lookout, first follow the Z↺ then the Z+, and from Szerb Antal street follow the Z trail until the asphalt road leading to Hármashatár-hegy.
• From there, the K and K↺ trails lead to the Guckler Károly lookout; after the lookout, follow only the K↺ trail.
• At Szépvölgyi út, turn right following the S trail, which leads down to Hűvösvölgy, the end point of the route.

Detailed description of the tour

The tour starts at the Gyermekvasút Széchenyi-hegy station, where you should start by registering your completion on the GeoGo site. The first domestic pioneer railway (later joined by several others in the country) began operation on July 31, 1948: the first train rolled out from Széchenyi-hegy towards Előre (today Virágvölgy) station; passengers included Rákosi, Rajk, Gerő, and Kádár “comrades” traveling cheerfully to the Úttörőváros in Csillebérc, as footage from contemporary newsreels shows. The line was later extended in two phases to Hűvösvölgy, where completing the Budai Kilátások 20 route will bring us to the finish. Although there are no pioneers anymore, children still serve in certain roles, and the stations appear just as they did at construction, so one can experience a small time travel when returning from the finish to the start.

Starting on the Z▲ trail, we circle around the Széchenyi-hegy radio tower. The broadcasting equipment has been part of Hungarian television almost since the beginning: the first broadcast happened in 1957 from a nearby temporary steel tower, but the 53-meter-high reinforced concrete structure near the Úttörővasút terminus was completed by 1958. For a long time, it was the only radio tower in the country, so broadcast interruptions were frequent. The newer 192-meter antenna tower was commissioned in 1975 and has since become an integral part of Budapest's skyline.

For a short time, we leave the Z▲ trail for the sake of the Z+ trail, then turn left onto an unmarked path leading to Farkasvölgyi út from the meadow—which was once a golf course. Between 1911 and 1951, the Budapest Golf Club operated a two-and-a-half-kilometer-long, nine-hole course here, with grass seed imported from England. It initially had a Scottish coach, and local Swabian children collected the balls. Club life flourished until 1948, with international competitions held on the splendid course, but the aforementioned comrades preferred pioneers on the hill over gentlemen playing golf, so simply put the narrow-gauge railway terminus on the course.

On Farkasvölgyi then Rege út, we reach the first checkpoint, Széchenyi lookout. Designed by Miklós Ybl, the building has an interesting history: it originally stood where Heroes' Square is today, functioning as a medicinal water well house between 1884 and 1898. It was demolished during the construction of the Millennium Monument and finally rebuilt on Svábhegy. The trees have started to surround and outgrow it, but from here, you can enjoy a beautiful panorama.

We start following the Z trail, and it is worth observing the large gardens and buildings lining both sides. Some villas remind of the turn of the century, and further away, you can spot the decaying block of Svábhegy Sanatorium. In 1883, a hydrotherapy institute opened here on the hillside, and in 1927 the current building began operation as a sanatorium, later converted into a resort hotel, and again a lung sanatorium after the war.

Soon, we reach the cog railway terminus, which has served the mountain area's transportation since 1874. Originally steam-powered, it was electrified by 1929; today’s red trains have been shuttling between Városmajor and Széchenyi-hegy since 1973. Opposite the terminus stands the former Golf hotel building (several hotels were built in the area between 1937 and 1941), later known as Red Star, then Panorama, welcoming guests. Walking toward the Gyermekvasút terminus along Golfpálya út, we pass the Kő buffet (an excellent refreshment opportunity), then turn toward Normafa on a gravel road parallel with the tracks. This notable (usually quite crowded) excursion spot is a great lookout except for the ski slope above, and the legendary Rétes buffet here offers strudel delicacies, along with lángos, hamburgers, chimney cakes, and various other foods and drinks.

The area has been a popular excursion spot since the 1840s, as its current name originates from that time (previously called Viharbükk, in German Wetterbaum). According to legend, artists from the National Theatre came here to rest, and in 1840 Rozália Schodelné Klein was so delighted by a gift handed to her here by Pál Nyáry that she broke into song, singing the Casta Diva aria from the opera Norma. It’s hard to imagine now, but Normafa and its surroundings once hosted one of the country’s most significant ski resorts—today, only the old buildings of the Normafa ski house remind one of this. It remains one of Budapest’s most popular excursion destinations, attracting large crowds.

Near Normafa is Anna-rét meadow, with fire pits, a cool playground, and a small chapel welcoming visitors. The meadow was already a favored outing place for the grape-growing population of Budakeszi in the 18th century. The Saint Anna chapel has awaited pilgrims since 1830, mainly arriving from Budakeszi and Zugliget. The next interesting spot—after passing by the site of former ski jumps—is the upper station of the Libegő cable car. This tourist-attracting chairlift has awaited passengers since 1970, covering a one-kilometer route with a 262-meter elevation difference. Interestingly, a naming contest was held for it, with unusual suggestions like Mountain Copter, Spacebus, János-hegyi Buzz, or Huza-vona. A buffet awaits worn-out hikers at the top station; after replenishing energy—and overcoming a steep climb—the János-hegy summit rises to 526 meters, where the Erzsébet lookout offers splendid panoramic views. Built in 1910 on the site of a wooden structure and naturally equipped with a buffet, this charming 23.5-meter-high tower has a memorial plaque nearby noting that Queen Elisabeth visited the area three times in 1882. Don’t forget to check in at the checkpoint!

Between János-hegy and Nagy-Hárs-hegy lies Szépjuhászné, where, according to legend, King Matthias met a beautiful shepherdess. A longer descent follows along the P trail. Crossing Budakeszi út, we immediately turn left, crossing the narrow-gauge railway tracks. During pioneer railway times, the station was called Ságváriliget and hosts a buffet; nearby (a few minutes’ walk) lies the ruin of the Budaszentlőrinc Pauline monastery.

A steeper climb leads up to Nagy-Hárs-hegy (follow the S trail), rewarded by spectacular views in all directions from the Kaán Károly lookout (checkpoint) at the summit. The trail descends quite steeply, soon reaching the entrance to the Bátori cave. This 360-meter long, varied karst formation is strictly protected and named after László Báthory, a Pauline monk hermit who, according to legend, lived here in seclusion for 20 years in the mid-15th century, spending his time translating the Bible. Earlier, woolly rhinoceros remains found here testify to its ancient fauna, and 15th-century silver coins and bronze coins minted under Terézia Márai were also found. From here, the path continues gently upwards to nearby Kis-Hárs-hegy, where you switch from the S to S▲ trail leading to a slender little lookout designed by Imre Makovecz—also a checkpoint. This building is part of the Makovecz routes, allowing visitors to discover buildings designed by Hungary’s master of organic architecture.

From the lookout, we descend to Ördög-árok, reaching the lowest point of the tour (first following Z↺, then Z+, and from Szerb Antal street the Z trail). We exit into the Kurucles neighborhood of District 2, then walk down Szerb Antal street to reach the Hűvösvölgy tram line. Crossing under the so-called Nagyhíd stop, we turn right and then left at the first opportunity, crossing a bridge over Ördög-árok. It’s worth making a detour to Napraforgó street, where exquisite houses of a 1931 Bauhaus-style experimental housing estate can be admired. Of course, these dozen houses are not like modern housing estates; elegant suburban family houses can be seen behind fences, mostly retaining their original character.

From Ördög-árok, the path climbs again to Gugger-hegy, passing the Apáthy rock, a projecting dolomite block overlooking Nyéki-árok. From here, Nagy-Hárs-hegy, Szépjuhászné, and János-hegy close the view, while looking the opposite way, you can see far beyond the city. The lookout is also a checkpoint. The Z trail curves along a narrow path, passing near Kőkapu rock formation, which is a sort of passage cave (you can actually pass through it). After crossing the asphalt strip of Görgényi út, we start another climb towards Gugger-hegy. On the summit, also known as Látó-hegy, awaits another lookout (Árpád lookout and checkpoint), built in 1929. The building differs from traditional lookouts, as it does not rise above the tree crowns but uses the ridge’s ledge facing the city. Although nearby buildings have begun to interrupt the panorama, you can still see from Gellért Hill to the Parliament.

Heading to the last checkpoint (but not the last lookout) along the Z trail, leading almost to Hármashatár-hegy, we pass a forester’s house and walk along a forest path parallel to the upper section of Szépvölgyi út to a waterworks. There, a steep staircase takes us away from the trail, then turning back into the forest from Selyemakác street. On a pleasantly gentle uphill, we begin climbing to the summit standing on the border of Buda, Óbuda, and Pesthidegkút, then turn right after a few hundred meters—now the climb becomes harder with frequent contour line crossings to Guckler Károly lookout, which we reach by following the National Blue Trail Országos Kéktúra K trail from the Hármashatárhegyi út intersection in a final sprint.

This oddly shaped lookout is not very tall, but its roughly four-meter height above ground level is enough for a full panoramic view. Budapest literally lies at our feet, with the whole Pest side visible, the Gödöllő hills behind it, and farther away, the Mátra peaks stretching towards the sky. Looking north, you can see the Cserhát, with Naszály closing the view above Vác, and the Pilis, Visegrád mountains, Budai hills, and Gerecse’s higher points are also clearly visible. As the last checkpoint, it crowns the tour, though a few kilometers remain.

We mostly descend towards Hűvösvölgy, first on the K↺ trail on the southern side of Hármashatárhegy on a winding, rocky, root-covered path, then—after circling a former border stone—on the initially quite steep S trail. We leave this one only for an unofficial lookout: after Határ-nyereg, turning onto an unmarked path from Homok-hegy, there is a fantastic view of the Hűvösvölgy glider airport. Along the path to the summit are two World War II ammunition shelters; returning to the S trail, sadly a military grave next to the trail commemorates a pointless and tragic “operation” when in February 1945 some German and Hungarian soldiers trapped in Buda Castle attempted to break through the Soviet siege ring to reach their own lines. Estimated only 700 succeeded while about 20,000 started.

The S trail touches one more slight elevation before beginning the final descent to Hűvösvölgy. No matter how tempting the lángos stand is along Hűvösvölgyi út, you must first cross the road, then the underpass under the tram tracks, and climb the stairs up to the Gyermekvasút Hűvösvölgy terminus to virtually check in at the finish. If you want to return to the tour starting point, Széchenyi-hegy, the best option is the narrow-gauge railway.