Normafa in its entirety

Itinerary

• Walk from the bus stop next to the Normafa Ski House along the Z+ trail to the Normafa viewpoint.
• From the viewpoint turn left and head towards János-hegy on the K↺ trail, which we follow until the fork after the former Budai Sport Hotel fence.
• At the fork turn left onto the red heart trail parallel to the asphalt road, towards the cardio path, which we follow to the Libegő cable car.
• Before the Libegő cable car, turn right onto the P trail, which leads up stairs to János-hegy.
• From the viewpoint, walk a few meters on the other side along the P trail, but shortly leave the asphalt road and descend.
• Descend on the switchbacks of the P⩍ trail to the János-hegyi passage cave.
• From the cave continue uphill on an unmarked asphalt road.
• Where the asphalt bends by the cave, turn right onto the P trail, which we follow only until the next asphalt intersection.
• Turn left on the asphalt (unmarked) for just a few meters.
• Turn left onto the Kᵯ trail, which we follow to the playground before the Libegő cable car.
• At the Libegő playground, before reaching the asphalt again, turn right onto the P trail and descend to a stairway branching to the right.
• Descend the unmarked stairway to the Béka pond, then climb back up the other stairway to the marked promenade.
• Turn left onto the P trail, which we follow to the previously mentioned playground.
• At the Libegő playground, turn right onto the Kᵯ trail, which we follow to the fork next to the Erzsébet kneeling place.
• At the Erzsébet kneeling place, continue straight on the K↺ trail, which leads to the end point of the route.

Detailed description of the tour

Ancient forest at Normafa

We leave the bus stop towards the Normafa Ski House on the Z+ trail. The building is now a restaurant, but it was built in 1927 with a customs function, later partially converted into a shelter on the proposal of the capital city. Behind it, after passing the strudel shop, we reach one of the best-known viewpoints of the capital city and the country. Opposite us, the wooded sides of the Buda Hills wave themselves into Budapest; besides the massive block of Pilis peak, the highest summits of Börzsöny also emerge. Behind Hármashatár Hill peeks the twin peak of Szanda from Cserhát, and to the northeast, the ridges of Mátra appear. The panorama has a unique atmosphere as the continuous noise of the capital meets the motionless peace of the forested hills. A metal relief map helps to identify the more important points. The location is named after the centuries-old tree patriarch, the “Viharbükk,” which reminded actress Róza Klein Schodelné of the set of Bellini’s opera Norma. For this reason, a member of the National Theatre troupe sang the Norma aria under it, unintentionally inspiring the new name, which soon spread to the surrounding meadow.

From here, we follow the K↺ trail, a level forest and meadow edge path, towards János-hegy along former ski slopes. Only a few rusty equipment items remind us of the old ski lifts; Normafa hosted a lively winter sports life for long, with ski jumps, slopes, and sled runs from the 1920s utilizing the ideal terrain conditions. At the info boards of the Ancient Forest educational trail, we read about the ancient forest formed by natural succession, while we stroll under huge and spreading old oaks and beeches. Taking a closer look at the trees along the path, we notice the forest is a bit different from what we usually know: it consists of trees of various ages.

Many trees of different ages can be seen here from one-year-old saplings to elders. There is also significant species variety: besides oak, there are mountain and field maples, hornbeams, and beeches. Fallen trees can also be found on the ground, as rotten wood provides a home for many creatures. Here, only a few trees are cut at a time, and seedlings emerging in their place strive for light. Because of this, the tree cover is continuous, hence it is called ancient forest.

The University slope and its magnificent panorama

From one of Normafa’s old ski slopes, the University slope, there is a splendid view of Budapest. Few know that the wide meadow was used as a ski slope for decades, and traces of the old ski lift are still visible. The best thing to do here in spring and summer is to spread out a blanket, lie back watching the sheep clouds, and picnic.

There are two playgrounds in the Normafa Park area with rope climbers, castles, slides, and swings; one is at Anna meadow, the other at the upper station of the Libegő cable car, welcoming little ones. Near the playgrounds, toilets and drinking fountains are available free of charge. At the picnic area near the strudel shop, the lángos vendor, and the outdoor dining units, you can relax in a green environment with a nice view.

The chapels of Anna meadow

At Anna meadow we visit the Saint Anna chapel along the K↺ trail, built anew in 1992. The original shrine was built between 1825 and 1830 at the meadow's edge in honor of Saint Anna and quickly became a popular pilgrimage site. The chapel was demolished after a workers' movement meeting in the 1950s. After the regime change, to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Budapest-Zugliget Association, an activist and their family rebuilt it, and a large wooden cross made of redwood was erected beside it. Today, benches, tables, and a fire pit await hikers beside the building.

From here, with a small detour, you can walk to the Atonement chapel behind the Saint Anna chapel, which opened in December 2023. Next to the puritan, minimalist chapel, a bell tower reminiscent of its style enhances the sacred character of the place.

Memory of Sissi on the hilltop

Continuing on the K↺ trail, we are soon near the asphalt road but separated by tall trees and the dense ancient forest. At a fork where our marked trail turns right, we take the red heart trail of the cardio path, leading to the Libegő on a path closer to the road. The Zugliget Libegő is the country's first passenger cableway, operating since 1970. On a nearly one-kilometer route, with two-seated suspended chairs spanning a 262-meter elevation difference, it carries passengers from the Zugliget basin to János-hegy in about 15 minutes. Passing the buffets, we arrive at the capital's summit, the Erzsébet lookout, via the steep, exhausting climb on the P marked stairs opposite.

The tower at Budapest's highest point, built in neo-Romanesque style, is named after Queen Erzsébet, who favored János-hegy for outings. The lookout's history goes back to 1885, when the construction plan was first conceived. At the time, a low wooden tower stood here. The Hungarian Tourist Association proposed replacing the dilapidated construction with a stone lookout in 1896. Among others, Frigyes Glück, a hotel owner, urged its preparation for tourism and organized charity collections during an international congress in Budapest.

The final plan, created by Pál Klunzinger, the city engineer, under the leadership of Frigyes Schulek, was accepted in 1907 and the necessary funds were approved. Construction began in June 1908, and the 23.5-meter-high, four-terrace lookout was handed over in 1910. The Erzsébet lookout is mostly made of freshwater limestone, transported by road to today's upper Libegő station and from there by temporary track to the hilltop. Currently, a café operates on the lower level, and an exhibition on the upper level presents the tower's history.

Its round, lookout-shaped exterior and wonderful panorama make it worth visiting. On clear days, the highest peaks of Pilis and the Visegrád Hills, Börzsöny, and Mátra can be seen in the distance. From here, you can also see the rocky terrain of Gerecse, the Vértes, and the Velence Hills block, as well as numerous Buda hills and surrounding settlements.

One of the capital's oldest thermal caves

Leaving Erzsébet lookout, we continue downhill on the P trail and, once we leave the descending asphalt road, turn right at a right angle onto the PΩ trail. We descend steeply on switchbacks near the János-hegyi road to the János-hegyi passage cave.

The cave is about 18 meters long and unique because it is partly natural and partly artificially expanded. On its walls, in the darkest middle section, you can find traces of chisel marks and drilling holes, while on both ends in the natural cavities, thermal water has carved spherical shapes. It is uncertain why it was cut through, but explanations might relate to ore searching during local iron mining.

Afterwards, we head uphill and walk on the unmarked János-hegyi road until we cross the P trail. We briefly go downwards on this and shortly after cross the János-hegyi road again. We turn left here, then a few meters further again left onto the Kᵯ trail, which gently ascends back to the playground near the upper station of the Libegő.

Budapest's only (non-natural) “sea eye”

From the upper station of the Libegő, we take a short detour following the P trail (to the right) to the small Béka pond, which proudly bears the title of “Budapest's largest natural surface lake.” The last meters are made by leaving the promenade on the right onto an unmarked stairway. The small lake is popular among families because of its idyllic environment, equipped with benches, tables, and a fire pit, making it a great resting and picnic spot. Although not large, the Béka pond is special: standing waters are rare on the sedimentary rocks of the Buda Hills, but here the clay layer beneath the basin retains the water.

Returning to the Libegő, we now continue right but again on the Kᵯ trail, which joins the K↺ trail after the Telekom tower. After leaving the TV tower, we can rest on benches at the Erzsébet kneeling place. At the Erzsébet memorial on János-hegyi road, there is a prayer bench and an image of Mary, originally the latter was hung on a tree. Later, in honor of the queen, a bust and kneeler by Alajos Stróbl were placed here, but these disappeared over time.

From the Erzsébet kneeling place, we follow the K↺ trail to the end of the hike. Along the way, near the Children’s Railway Virágvölgy stop, we pass by a forest classroom with signs, tables, and benches awaiting students and their instructors. This section of the hike is peaceful compared to the surroundings, in a forest avoided by crowds, among huge beech elders and undergrowth forming an impenetrable green screen. The elevation gain is negligible, and the forest Székely gate already marks the end of the hike.