Ridge hike on the ridges of Eastern Mátra

Itinerary:

• The route follows the National Blue Trail K marking and the Mátra ridge ʍ marking throughout.

Detailed description of the hike:

Up to the Mátra ridge, to Kalapos-tető

We start at the Sirok, Nyírjesi út (housing estate passage) bus stop on the K marking. Unfortunately, the first approx. 1.8 km must be covered on asphalt, but since there is no closer bus stop with regular service to the point where the National Blue Trail leaves the road leading to Kőkútpuszta, we have no choice. From here, our climb is gentle and even as we pass through the scrubby forest towards the easternmost prominence of the Mátra ridge, Nagy-Őr-hegy. Crossing a small stream, we arrive at a clearing with a resting place at Sólyom spring. Unfortunately, the shelter is already shaky, but it serves its function. The vegetation of the clearing grows so wild in summer that the spring and hiking trail are hard to find.

In the oak woods above the clearing, we touch a large hay meadow on the eastern slope of Őr-hegy, from where there is the best view of Sirok castle and the Tarna river gorge. The marking runs beside the meadow, but to get the view, we must walk into the meadow.

Continuing along the gentle slope of Nagy-Aszó-hegy in young oak woods. After reaching a small shoulder, the K◼ marking branches off towards Kőkútpuszta, which is a joining point and an alternative route - the only difference being that the latter starts from a populated area.

From here, the path clearly turns onto the hillside, crossing two forestry roads, and making a larger arc turning south, we reach the actual ridge. We pass through the gate of a fence bordering an old clearing; this point marks the start of the strict ridge hike. Soon we reach the plateau of Kalapos-tető, where the ascent softens, then from nearby Aszó-tető, we proceed with gentle undulations around the 500-meter contour line.

Across Gazos-kő to Jóidő-kút

From Kalapos-tető, the landscape changes dramatically. The southern slopes change sharply at the ridge into steep slopes on the northern side. This break has tectonic and climatic causes. After formation, the volcanic block of Mátra tilted south due to the sinking of the southern edge of the fault line that supplied volcanic material. The northern side of the tilted mass was exposed to strong shear stress, causing the northern slopes to collapse along tectonic faults.

This fracture surface was further weathered by the harsh climate of ice ages, when water freezing in cracks increasingly eroded the northern rocks. This remaining surface can still be seen on the northern ridge, with one of the most beautiful examples being Gazos-kő, our first real panoramic viewpoint.

The rocky face of Gazos-kő plunges sharply along a clear line, offering a 180-degree panorama toward the northern regions of Mátra. From Bükk through Galya-tető to the Palócföld region topped by the volcanic cones of Karancs-Medves, the view extends far. Around Gazos-kő we now walk through beautiful old oak woods because the steep edges have not been logged.

Crossing the cone of Cseresznyés-tető, we arrive at the saddle of Remete-clearing, where we can refresh and get water from the nearby Remete spring, reachable by the K● marking turning off at the northern end of the clearing. The water flow in volcanic mountains unfortunately follows the weather closely and is unreliable. The rock cracks' storage capacity is low, causing springs to dry up quickly in drought periods.

From Remete-clearing, our path follows a forestry fence that divides a light, young oak forest. The trail skirts around Remete-tető with a gentle ascent, then slowly enters the intermittently functioning Jóidő spring area by the trees guarding a Mary's image at Jóidő saddle. From here, we leave the gently undulating logging road and start tackling the elevation.

Test at the first saw tooth

Behind Jóidő spring, we sharply turn right, leaving the comfortably leveling logging road to start climbing Szederjes-tető. We step higher among forest clearings accompanied by lonely beech woods. The upper logged hillside offers a view back along the upper ridge section: the eastern Mátra peaks stretch long towards Bükk. The steep ascent ends quickly as we manage the 120 meters of elevation gain within less than half a kilometer. We arrive at the summit along a gentle ridge.

Szederjes-tető offers limited views through the sparse trees around the summit but is interesting due to medieval rampart remains found on its northeastern spur. The excavated pottery shards suggest an Árpád era fortress, though no written record remains. Researchers believe it was likely built by the Borh-Bodon family from the Aba clan or the Kompolti family, rulers of the area.

The far side of Szederjes-tető is very steep too, although less elevation is gained and mostly descending. The ridge section crossing Kis- and Nagy-Zúgó-hegy involves minor leveling but is very atmospheric with a shady old forest covering the exposed northern side and ridge edge. We pass a fenced hunting lodge standing in a clearing, and descend to Domoszlói gate with varying views.

Through the dissected cones of the Szár-hegy caldera

This natural pass has bitten into the ridge by the backward erosion of valleys, forming the lowest crossing of the eastern Mátra ridge used by locals. From Recsk and Parádr, this is the most accessible passage southwards. The deep incision of Domoszlói stream is due to the volcanic structure. Experts suspect a large collapsed volcanic crater here, marked by surrounding peaks. The arc atop Nagy-Szár-hegy likely fragmented due to structural movements, creating a uniquely uneven summit region.

The next three mountains with separate steep cones form three waves along the ridge. The first one, Oroszlánvár, is the steepest and toughest challenge on our hike. The sparse, dogwood-covered hillside overcomes 100 meters of elevation in just a few hundred meters. Reaching the summit, we breathe easier as we circle the strangely ring-shaped depressed summit.

The clearly man-made fortification encloses a narrow area on the summit, possibly the core of a former fortress. After the Tatar invasion, the ruling Kompolti family may have built a castle here, which probably fell into ruin during Turkish times. No professional excavation has taken place, but presumably, the upper castle, lower defences, and service buildings on the western slope surrounded the summit.

Little is known about the castle, but local legends tell of bachelor lord Kompolti being seduced by his huntsman's daughter riding a tamed lion, earning the lordship's honor and heart. The beast was even carved into stone—in reality, the only lion here at the end of the Árpád era was the lord himself, who had to be tamed. Anyway, we ride the back of Oroszlánvár and descend along its grassy western ridge with its pale mane to the saddle.

The trail only passes beside the side of Cserepes-tető but traces a strong wave beneath before entering Cserepes saddle. A hunting lodge once stood here, now completely ruined. The next Nagy-Szár-hegy is in many ways the highlight of our hike. A strong ascent begins from the saddle, leading through mixed hornbeam-beech-oak forest to the summit. Separate from the Kékes block, it is a perfect volcanic cone, the highest peak of the Eastern Mátra. Kékestető attracts the tourist crowds, so this lesser-known mountain remains in its original splendor, untouched by human intervention. Let's keep it that way!

A rocky meadow lies on the summit, offering wonderful views mainly toward the southern slopes, the Great Hungarian Plain, and the Kékes block towering above. We deserve the sight and rest. The section pulsating behind us on our right closes with the largest cone; from here, we only need to descend to the Upper-Tarjanka meadow, the saddle under Hármashatár, from where we traverse the ridge edge sideways for a longer distance.

Rest walk near Markazi gate

On the next section, we walk relieved through sunny oak woods waving on gentle ridges. With minimal leveling, we feel the rest as a pleasant, very atmospheric forest walk, turning north around Mrazinca-tető and descending to Markazi gate.

Like Domoszlói gate, this passage was also opened by a valley cutting into a caldera—the Vár valley rising into the Kékes block is considered a caldera imprint by experts. At Markazi gate, this collapse meets the Ilona valley reaching north, which hides Hungary's highest natural waterfall and is clearly one of the most beautiful areas in Mátra.

Climbing the Kékes block

From Markazi gate begins the last, persistent climb that leads to the top of our country. On the ever-steepening slope, a zigzag path slowly spaces out the elevation gain. Passing under the meadow dotted with rocks of Kis-Sas-kő, we circle the ridge edge and head through the dark old beech forest on the northern side across increasingly wild terrain. Here we can witness elemental forces shaping this dramatic landscape up close. Blocks broke off along faults lying far below us, while we try to find footing on the fractured, frost-damaged surface. Fortunately, the distinct trail band leads around the ridge edges and the depressions between.

At one rock outcrop, we can peek above the dense beech forest down a short path leading from the trail to Dinsznó-kő. Do not miss this wonderful view! Above the scree, we swing around the wild ridge toward the landscape and overlook the northern foot of Mátra from Galya-tető in the distance to the fading mountains of Upper Hungary.

The lateral walk so far included minor undulations due to uneven terrain, but from here on, a monotonous ascent characterizes the path carved into the steep slope. We climb under the northern cliffs of Kis-Sas-kő, searching for grips on the cliff face. We stay on the shaded northern side until Sas-kő. Around 800 meters in altitude, the beech forest dominates at this height.

The long lateral walk is interrupted by the rocky line of Sas-kő, where the path crosses the ridge under rocks and approaches the exposed peak from the gentler southern side. From the rocks, the first views open southeastward over our trail so far, and from the memorial monument placed atop the cliff, nearly a full circle panorama opens. The obelisk made of natural stone commemorates tourists who fell in the world war.

From Sas-kő follows a very atmospheric ridge section where we alternately walk through groves, sparse forests, and rocky ridge at nearly constant elevation. We touch the Erzsébet rocks and a wooden cross standing in a clearing decorated with stones. At the saddle of Sötét-lápa, we cross a logging road and start the final ascent of our hike.

This ancient path climbing through old beech forests leads to Kékestető, meaning literally 'roof'. The summit block is a steep trapeze plateau edged with cliffs, and we climb up along its eastern ridge branch. As we manage the last hundred meters of elevation and the steepness suddenly eases, we reach the magical 1000-meter mark—the only such opportunity in the country. The highest point of Kékestető is at the western end of this plateau, so we continue along the rim below the meteorological station buildings.

On top of Hungary

On the last section of our journey, we walk through ancient beech forest. Not widely known, but one of the country’s last untouched forests can be found at the top of the country. The count owning the area preserved a forest reserve on the mountain summit, part of which was consumed by post-war construction frenzy after WWII at Kékestető. Here on the northern edge, we can still see the centuries-old forest as the hiking trail winds among ancient trunks.

Buildings multiply, and as we reach the ski clearing, the giant tower of the Kékes relay station dominates. Below it, the national color-painted stone block symbolizing the country’s top dwarfs, where mainly hikers arriving by bus or car bustle and take selfies.

Here we truly appreciate our hike through almost undisturbed wilderness, having reached our country's highest point. We can eat, drink, buy from the market bustle, or purchase souvenirs in the bazaar—but perhaps the best souvenir from Kékes is the experience of having climbed the country's highest peak among volcanic cones with panoramic views.