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Hiking Trail recommended route Hiking Trail  · Mátra Mountains Open

Memorial hike around Csákány-kő

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  • The coffin-shaped block of Kékes from the clearing next to the memorial site
    The coffin-shaped block of Kékes from the clearing next to the memorial site
    Photo: Német-Bucsi Attila, Hungarian Hiking Association

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    In a land with a sad past, we start our hike at the Recski Forced Labor Camp Memorial Site. After recalling events, we enter the heart of the mountain range to recover from the low that history has brought us through the power of nature. In Mátra's dense forests, gentle clearings, undulating ridges, and steep valleys, our soul finds relief from the harrowing stories of the Recski National Memorial Park. From numerous viewpoints, our gaze wanders far over the wound of Csákány-kő across the wooded areas of the Northern Mátra. Every Hungarian should, if not required, visit this place to confront the dark side of Hungarian history and human nature and to clearly see the line between "good and evil" by drawing strength from the perseverance of prisoners and the preservation of human values.
    Open
    easy
    Distance 8.7 km
    2:40 h
    348 m
    348 m
    637 m
    315 m

    Every young person who completed eight grades may have heard of the Recski forced labor camp, but this was not the case in the 1950s. Secretly operating in the shadow of Csákány-kő, built after the model of Soviet gulags, the camp was guarded by distorted representatives of power, the state security officers called the "Fist of the Working Class," who kept the internal enemies of the then regime from all layers of society. From the railway worker of Hatvan to the head of the meteorological institute, Auschwitz survivor, doctor, artist, common people, and even disgraced former ÁVH agents were imprisoned in Recsk. During the sad and disgraceful years, the darkest side of the human soul ruled the northeastern slopes of Mátra. Even villagers were not spared, violent acts were common. Fear and terror prevailed around the forced labor camp. The regime cautiously guarded its dark secret behind the Mátra ridge, where people undesirable to the party were sidelined without judicial trial.

    This haze was broken by the only successful escapee, Michlay Gyula, the sole survivor who reached the west. On Sunday, May 20, 1951, in disguise, eight prisoners escaped through the camp fence; all but one were caught the following month. The successful escapee smuggled people to the west from the communist bloc even after World War II – thus he was able to flee to Austria through his connections, where he reported the camp's existence on Radio Free Europe and listed the names of 600 prisoners. Because of the media's impact and the rise of Imre Nagy after Stalin's death, the camp, which operated from 1950, was abolished after three cruel years. The facilities were bulldozed, and prisoners were forbidden under threat of prison punishment to speak of what happened in the camp.

    Oblivion’s dull haze began to break in the 1980s and in the 1990s the site and events were reconstructed from the accounts of detainees. The memorial and restored guardhouse and barracks can still be visited by anyone at the Recski National Memorial Park. It is deeply moving and thought-provoking how the cementing of power was achieved and can be achieved anytime if undeserving people decide over lives. The lesson of Csákány-kő, as written on the memorial park board, is: "Never again a political dictatorship enforcing state!"

    Detailed description of the hike is available under the Directions menu.

    Author’s recommendation

    • Although the hiking trail freely passes through the memorial park, it is worth spending time there, visiting the exhibition area, reading the informative panels, and reflecting on the events that happened in the labor camp. Allocate at least one, preferably two hours to explore the exhibition to understand where you are.
    • If the distance and elevation feel too much but you want to take a walk around Csákány-kő, you can skip most of the elevation or shorten the hike by about one and a half kilometers. To do this, above the Várbükk Forestry House, after reaching the gravel forestry road on the P marking, do not leave the gravel road under the high voltage power lines on the P markings but continue along the dozer road! After about a kilometer, when the forestry road curves completely in the hillside, switch to the K+ marking at the bend and follow it descending back to the originally suggested trail. This shortcut skips the Mátra-bérc section (K marking) of the tour, the climb leading to it (P marking), and the steep path descending from the Great Zúgó Mountain (K● marking).
    • Before or after the hike, inspired by what you have seen, you can find much information about the former forced labor camp online. Many books have been written about the events here; the most famous is György Faludy's "My Merry Days in Hell," but Zoltán Sztáray's "Csákánykő" and numerous works based on memories of former detainees are available. The only successful escape story can be watched as the film "Escape" directed by Lívia Gyarmathy. There is also a documentary with accounts from survivors titled "Jules' Escape" available online. A long documentary was made in 1988 with interviews of ÁVH officers and prisoners called "Recsk 1950-53 - The Story of a Secret Forced Labor Camp," also available online.
    Difficulty
    easy
    Overall difficulty
    easy

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    Great Zúgó Mountain, 637 m
    Lowest point
    315 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
    Nov
    Dec

    Track types

    Asphalt 11.55%Forested/wild trail 20.93%Path 54.27%Road 13.24%
    Asphalt
    1 km
    Forested/wild trail
    1.8 km
    Path
    4.7 km
    Road
    1.2 km
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    • It can be life-threatening to go close to the currently operating mine, so do not leave the hiking trail! Warning signs indicate the mine's protected area; it is not easy to accidentally stray to Csákány-kő.
    • Whatever way we approach the Recski National Memorial Park, be aware that the asphalt road leading to the memorial site is an operational mine road. The hiking trail that climbs on foot also crosses this road, which sometimes has dangerous truck traffic.

    Roadbook

    Itinerary:

    • From the memorial park, we follow the P+ marking to reach the Várbükk Forestry House.
    • From the forestry house, we continue on the P marking towards the Domoszlói Gate.
    • At the Domoszlói Gate, we join the ridge path on the K marking.
    • Between the Great and Little Zúgó Mountains, we leave the ridge on the K● marking to the Szegediek's well.
    • On the dozer road below the spring, we join the K+ marking which descends back to the National Memorial Park.
    • ???We cover the last meters next to the memorial park on the K▲ marking.???

    Detailed information about the hike:

    At the Recski labor camp

    We start from the National Memorial Park parking lot at the former entrance of the Recski Labor Camp following the P+ marking. During the summer season, the exhibition about the camp's history based on prisoners' stories is open in the building opposite the entrance, which was formerly an officer's barrack converted from the forestry house. This requires a slight detour; the path leads left from the entrance past small ponds dug by the prisoners. By now, these ponds are home to lush aquatic life under the shade of tall poplars. The most worn path leads under the ponds to the reconstructed penal barracks – it is worth visiting as it is just a few minutes detour.

    The P+ marking leaves the former camp area above the barracks through dense forest. After visiting the exhibition and gaining insight into the life in the penal camp, leaving this difficult place almost feels like liberation. The eight prisoners who managed the only successful escape fled this way, and one of them eventually succeeded in fleeing westward. We follow dense forest below Csákány-kő, ending at a larger clearing. From the clearing, the bite-shaped Kékes massif dominates the landscape. The marking descends slightly onto the Várbükk dozer road winding towards the Várbükk Forestry House.

    In the Várbükk Forests

    At the second branch of the dozer road, our path is crossed by the P marking coming from Parádfürdő, which we follow towards the Mátra ridge. The road curves back to the impressive forestry house. Crossing the atmospheric meadow behind the house, we turn into the groved forest on the opposite side. After a short climb, we reach the road leading to Domoszlói Gate, followed by the marking for a section. At Vár-well, where the high voltage line crosses the forestry road, the P marking branches off onto the path climbing towards the saddle.

    At the base of the extremely steep northern side of Oroszlánvár, zigzagging between dark beech forest and the clearing under the overhead cables, we climb to Domoszlói Gate. The natural passage was carved by a stream in the presumed caldera of the Great Szár Mountain, which locals used as a crossing between the two sides of Mátra. We cross the road followed lower here again at the saddle, and can catch our breath at a simple resting place after the tiring ascent.

    On the Mátra ridge

    After a deserved rest, we follow the gently undulating ridge along the K marking, which indicates the trail of the National Blue Trail. For a short section, we also get a taste of the atmosphere of hiking across the country. In sparse woods dotted with dogwoods, we have limited views to Kékes and the High Mátra mountains. This section crosses one of the most deserted parts of Mátra, where the trail meanders far from inhabited settlements. The nearest villages lie deep below after several kilometers of dense forest stacking up in the Parád-Tarna valley and on the other side at the edge of the Great Plain.

    With a long ascent on the ridge, overcoming over 100 meters in elevation, we reach the elongated peak of Jagus where we get some views to Csákány-kő. The sharp ridge serves not only as a water divide but also divides vegetation. Oak trees inhabit the sunlit southern slopes, while the steep, colder northern beech forests have been heavily reduced by forestry management. Among groups of standing tree trunks and emerging new generation, we look into the northern valleys of Mátra. Below us, the yellowish andesite mine of Csákány-kő, called "Chamois" by prisoners because of its former shape, now spreads its stones as building and road materials across the country. Nowadays much deeper levels are mined beyond the crater visible here.

    On one of the slopes of the undulating ridge, a forestry house was built in a fenced small clearing, but its bench and covered porch are unfortunately closed to tourists. Above the house, the 637 meters peak of the Great Zúgó Mountain is the highest point of our route. In the saddle on the far side, we reach the branch of the K● marking.

    Descent back to the memorial park

    We leave the ridge in dense beech forest on a steep path along the K● marking that descends into a small valley to the spring called Szegediek's well. The water source flowing in a steep depression under old beech trees was occupied by Szeged tourists in the mid-20th century; since then it flows surrounded by dense, lush vegetation. At the forest rest area below the spring, we can catch our breath as from here on we leave the steep ridge section and descend further over gentler terrain.

    Below the spring, we enter the dozer road and continue following the K+ marking. At the bend, the marking branches off onto a path along the edge of the clearing. We descend east of the Csákány-kő block in the Győrke stream valley back to the foot of the mountain. The last short section cuts through the hillside where dense forest and clearing meet at the junction of the mining asphalt road, returning to the entrance of the memorial park.

     ???We cover the last meters next to the memorial park on the K▲ marking.???

    Rest stop
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    Az egykori recski kényszermunkatábor (Recski Nemzeti Emlékpark)

    Public transport

    Attention! The starting point of the hike can only be reached by public transport with a longer walk!

    • The nearest bus stop: Recsk, OTP.

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    Memorial hike around Csákány-kő

    Directions

    • A K+ marking leads from the bus stop southwest to the starting point of the hike (3.9 km).
    • 200 meters before the mine entrance, a right-branching dozer road takes us to the memorial park, which is the starting point of our hike.

    Parking

    • Parking is available in front of the Recski National Memorial Park, from where the hike also starts.
    • From the center of Recsk, we reach the Várbükk Road next to the railway station. You need to cover four kilometers on the asphalt road leading to the mine. The parking lot for the memorial park, located 200 meters before the mine entrance, is in the forest, right next to the road, including the entrance. Watch out for mine truck traffic!

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.904861, 20.093828
    DMS
    47°54'17.5"N 20°05'37.8"E
    UTM
    34T 432279 5306123
    w3w 
    ///formally.eruptive.portables
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

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    Equipment

    • Season-appropriate clothing, hiking shoes, drinking water, food. For navigation use the Természetjáró App.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from Hungarian.

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    Status
    Open
    Difficulty
    easy
    Overall difficulty
    easy

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    8.7 km
    Duration
    2:40 h
    Ascent
    348 m
    Descent
    348 m
    Highest point
    637 m
    Lowest point
    315 m
    Round trip Scenic Cultural/historical interest Geological highlights Summit route 'Healthy climate'

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