The magical world of Sár Hill

Itinerary

• Throughout the route, we follow the S sign.

About the route in detail

The Sár Hill

The Sár Hill, 500 m high, is a partially collapsed, denuded island mountain on the southern, sunken edge of the Mátra Mountains. Its main mass consists of andesitic lava rock, agglomerate, and tuff, as well as a small patch of rhyolitic tuff. On the easily weathered andesitic tuff, the main soils are chernozem brown forest soil, brown forest soil with clay washout, and black erubaz soil rich in clay fraction; on the rocky cliff parts, ranker soil has developed. The Sár Hill, open from the Great Plain side—together with other southern forelands of the Northern Medium Mountains (e.g. Naszály near Vác, Somlyó near Fót, Kopasz Hill near Tokaj)—has a strong mixture of mountain and foothill species with continental, steppe species. Its extraordinary value partly lies in the coexistence of Great Plain and mountain species in a small area, and partly in the fact that today these hills serve as refuges, i.e. last sanctuaries, for steppe wildlife strongly pushed back from once extensive areas. A significant part of the hill's vegetation is now secondary community. The most valuable habitats are the feather grass steppes formed on former vineyards, providing habitat for numerous rare and protected plant species. Also appearing secondarily on the old vineyard parcel-dividing stone piles are dwarf almond and cherry shrubs. Similarly valuable habitats are the northern-exposed horned cinquefoil meadows.

Through Vineyards

From the corner of the cemetery, we set off on a wide vineyard path following the S sign towards Sár Hill. We ascend among the vineyards. Soon, behind two mulberry trees, a fence hides. Viticulture has a long tradition in the Mátra wine region. The first written mention dates from 1042: "At the border of Saár, a monastery was built, which also included vineyard estates," but viticulture likely existed in the area much earlier. Pál Kitaibel, a renowned polymath and botanist, visited the vicinity of Sár Hill on May 12, 1803. According to his diary entry, viticulture was advanced in the area, with particular significance given to Sár Hill. "The red and black grapevines are pruned back to two buds on the shoots; the white is pruned to 3–5 buds, and when the cluster is already visible, in early May, the infertile shoots are cut off, and the empty shoots of the previous year are trimmed. The population of Gyöngyös is primarily engaged in viticulture, so extensive vineyards can be seen. The southwest, south, and southeast sides of Sár Hill behind Gyöngyös are covered with vineyards. The vines are planted in rows. They are usually not staked, but if pruned longer, a grape stake is used. For short pruning, the shoots are tied together. Linden bast is used for tying. The wine is strongly alcoholic and has a basic taste. The red wine is better, but the white is more sought after."

In 1884, the vineyards of Sár Hill were affected by the phylloxera epidemic; by 1890, the vine root aphid had turned the area into wasteland. After the epidemic, vines on the hilltop were no longer cultivated, and after World War II, they disappeared from the steeper slopes as well. Where larger vineyards remain today (mainly in the foothill parts), viticulture methods appropriate for large-scale conditions are applied. We continue straight along the vineyard rows, then turn left at the end along the sign.

Through Grasslands

We continue through a small but deep valley, then soon reach the Szőke path. Among the trees leaning over the spring house, we also find Tatar maples. This species was once a typical constituent of the forested steppes covering the loess-covered plains. The loess has been well preserved on the southern exposures of the foothill region of Sár Hill, so we encounter this species here as well.

One of Sár Hill's foothills, the saddle of Visonta Hill, becomes steeper. Here, above the cultivated areas, there is a beautiful view of Gyöngyös lying below. These steppe grassy slope steppes and dry mountain pastures hide most of the hill's protected species.

The shallow soil here dries out quickly, so bulbous, tuberous, and annual plants adapted to extreme water and temperature conditions are common. Different survival strategies are followed by some warm-loving shrub species of the Tatar maple loess oak forest, such as the low shoots of the woundwort, which can be found in abundance in this part of the plateau. Due to extreme conditions not always allowing sexual reproduction, it forms so-called polycormons spreading vegetatively by root suckers. The seemingly separate individuals are clones that communicate directly through water and nutrient transport. The small shrub with a million tiny spines has a Latin name meaning the prickliest rose. Another protected species preferring similar habitats, also known from gardens, is the pink-flowered dwarf almond. It is most often encountered on irregularly cross-sectioned stone piles carried to the edges of the former vineyard plots, locally called obalák.

In the vineyards abandoned for more than a hundred years, further protected species have settled, such as the Pannonian-Carpathian endemic Hungarian meadow grass, feather grass of the steppe, meadow clover, red snake's-head fritillary, ash-leaved fleabane, or, in more open areas, Janka's lungwort. These grassy habitats provide homes for the highly protected steppe butterfly, the argus-eyed longhorn beetle developing in mole cricket species, and the silky shrub longhorn beetle associated with the painted lady butterfly. It's worth paying attention to the soaring birds of prey above, as the area may host honey buzzards or wasp buzzards. The steppe eagle and marsh harrier, sometimes searching for food from the Mátra Mountains, also appear in the sky.

Up to the Hilltop

From the saddle, a short climb leads to the Cseplye Hill's panoramic summit. Imre Szerencsés (1922–1994), a pharmacist and botanist from Gyöngyös, studied the plant life of Sár Hill. From his memorial pillar, we can look down from almost bird's-eye view to the houses of Gyöngyös. To the east, the chimneys of the Mátra Power Plant attract attention. This is the largest coal-fired power plant in Hungary, with a built-in capacity of 950 MW. Slightly northward, the Markazi reservoir is visible. The most beautiful view is offered by the Mátra ridge. From here, Galyatető, the Kékes massif, and in the foreground, the 53-m-high Sástó lookout tower, originally intended as an oil drilling tower for Algyő, are clearly visible. The area is a popular paragliding launch site, from which just 100 meters away lies the Sár Hill peak adorned with antennas, reached by a short climb after the grassy saddle.

Down to the Saint Anna Chapel

From the wide cart road, after the turn, we take a narrow path right and descend along the northeastern ridge of the hill among hawthorn, blackthorn, and rose shrubs. About 400 m later, we reach a small clearing: on the left, hornbeam-oak forest, and on the right, the Eastern Mátra, as well as Abasár, Markaz, and Visonta are visible. Continuing downhill for about 600 m, the charming wooden tower and tiled roof of Saint Anna chapel appear from the forest edge. The chapel, named after the patron saint of coopers, in the village of Abasár, was founded by Baron Gáspár Bossányi in the mid-18th century. In 1797, Pope Pius VI allowed the holding of a pilgrimage here. Locals have regularly come out since then on July 26 for penance. At the northern base of the small hill lies the Remete cave, which is not an artificially excavated cavity.

Behind the chapel is the Szent Anna lake, surrounded by reeds and in an advanced state of filling-in. Its bed formed under still unclear circumstances. The most accepted theory suggests it is an erosion depression filled with rainwater. The lake is the most significant spawning place on the hill for amphibians, like the crested newt, and many other animal groups. Among its plants, the common bladderwort is noteworthy, a submerged aquatic plant without roots. On its underwater leaves, snap-traps are located, which suck in small animals, such as crustaceans, in a fraction of a second. The captured prey is ultimately digested by proteolytic enzymes. Protected plants around the lake are the Banat sedge and the globeflower.

Foothill Descent with Game Park and Airfield

From the lake, we continue northwest on the S sign. We leave the meadow by a rest area, then after black pines, turn right at the fork. From the Szálasi well, the former forester’s house converted into the Szálas tourist lodge is already visible.

For a while, we walk alongside a high game fence through warm-loving oak forest, then come to the southern end of the Pipis Hill gliding airfield. From here, Galyatető, Kékes, and the Sástó lookout can also be seen. The area became property of the Mátra Motorless Flight Division in 1931. They built the first Hungarian motorless performance glider, the Gyöngyös 33, in 1932. The airfield’s heyday was between 1938 and 1939, when several hundred pilots were trained here. During World War II, it was used for military purposes, then closed after 1956. In the 1960s, the Hungarian Defence Forces used it as a warehouse and military resort. The reactivation of the airfield began in 1979 under the leadership of Vilmos Kóré by a volunteer team. Currently, the Flying Club Gyöngyös, which has gliding and motorized sections, uses the area within the Hungarian Defence League framework. The Hungarian Defence Forces currently use it for training purposes. The airfield also hosts events such as the Gyöngyös flying days and served as the venue for the 2003 Gyöngyös EFOTT festival.

Turning right, we enter the forest, where we continue along the track of the former industrial railway in a pleasant hornbeam-oak forest. The rails connected the walnut factory built in 1951 with Mátrafüred. At the far end of the wildlife park of the Mátra Forestry, Agricultural and Wildlife Management Vocational School and College, we turn right and can already see the ecumenical forest worship area with a replica of the Holy Crown at the bottom of the Mátrafüred sledding slopes. The "M"-shaped altar refers to the unity of Hungary, Mátra, and Mary. Along the wide path leading to the altar, where the school provides free access for believers, a Calvary can also be found. From spring to autumn, church events, weddings, and baptisms are held here.

Turning left beside the sports field at the triple fork, we cross the Mátravasút rails and then the main road 24. The tour endpoint, the Mátrafüred, Erdész utca bus stop, is just over 100 m to the right, opposite which is the train station. The sidewalk is also a busy bike path!