Lookouts of Mátrafüred

Itinerary

• Let's start from the Mátrafüred, bus station bus stop heading west on the Z, S▲ marked hiking trail.
• At the junction, turn left and follow the S▲, Z+ signs.
• At the junction, turn right and follow the S▲ sign.
• At the junction, turn right onto the Z marked hiking trail.
• From the center of Mátrafüred, proceed on the S marked hiking trail.
• At the junction, turn right onto the S+, P● marked path.
• Stay on the S+ marked hiking trail all the way, which leads back to Mátrafüred.

Detailed description of the hike

There was no settlement in the area of Mátrafüred until the end of the 19th century; the village of Bene, located a few kilometers further north, is not considered its direct predecessor. Mátrafüred developed from the growing Mátra tourism, largely thanks to the Hungarian Carpathian Association's Mátra Department (the Mátra Association), founded in 1887. Its name was given following its high-Tatra "twin": after its cold water bath, it was named Mátrafüred in 1893 following the model of Ótátrafüred.

You can reach Mátrafüred by train from Gyöngyös for more than 100 years. Train service started on the Gyöngyös State Forest Railway’s Mátrafüred branch on June 5, 1923, and the latest full renovation was completed by spring 2024. The 6.5-kilometer route is much more enjoyable by narrow-gauge railway than by bus, but there is also a bike path running continuously between Gyöngyös and Mátrafüred.

A lookout named after one of the founders of Mátrafüred

Our hike starts from the center of Mátrafüred. First, we climb up to the Kozmáry Lookout along the S▲ marked hiking trail starting from the street opposite the railway station. The little fairy-tale-like building at 370 m elevation took its current form after the 1939 reconstruction of the original lookout built in 1900. The tower is named after János Kozmáry, a Gyöngyös merchant and caretaker of the Mátra Association, who helped launch tourism in Mátrafüred. The building was left untouched for a long time but was renovated in 2010 to remain safely accessible. It was worth it; the panorama is stunning: only a few tall pine trees interfere with the view, which otherwise offers a thorough look at Gyöngyös, Sár-hegy, and the Visonta power plant. Turning to the northern side, Kékes dominates the view, and if the color doesn't help you identify it, the 180 m tall TV tower at the top will. Looking west, the Mátra mountains fade away, and you can enjoy the gentler hills of the Cserhát Mountains.

Our route is built from two smaller loops. One leads to the Kozmáry Lookout, so now instead of returning the way we came, we head back via the 398 m high Dobogó hill, then turn right on the Z marked hiking trail to reach the starting point. But we are far from done; the second loop follows! From the center, follow the main road and the S sign toward Mátraháza, and don’t be tempted to turn off at any of the branches until the third one, at Kalló Street! Here turn right to climb steadily and leave Mátrafüred behind.

Small lookout, modest castle ruins, tasty water

You must conquer the 484 m high Muzsla hill: at the peak of our route, there is a somewhat neglected resting spot and a lookout offering roughly one-third of the panorama. Here, we can rest; no more elevation awaits us on the hike. Meanwhile, look around from the Muzsla Lookout: among the trees, the northern side of the 500 m high Sár-hegy above Gyöngyös is most visible. But don't just stare into the distance, as we are at a site of an Árpád-era fort. There is hardly any information about the castle; no written records mention it, but it is assumed to have been destroyed by 1400, and its remains were used by the Turks in the conquest and by defenders in World War II. The faint traces carry little excitement for the untrained eye.

After resting, continue on the S marked path through an airy oak forest reminiscent of karst scrub forests. About 500 meters ahead, we reach another highlight, the Rákóczi spring and the excellent rest area built around it. The flowing water is one of Mátra's freshest and healthiest waters; tasting and filling bottles are highly recommended! Originally called the 'Near Well' referring to its short walk from Mátrafüred. According to legend, Ferenc II Rákóczi also liked to rest around here, so it was later renamed the Rákóczi spring. On the stonework, the relief of the Kuruc warrior was replaced with his portrait. The rest area has tables and benches with a covered shelter nearby, but you can also sit on the spring’s stonework.

The romantic rock chapel of Máriácska

From the spring, we continue on the S+ marked hiking trail. At the junction, do not turn off onto the P● marked path, stay on the cross mark and after some descent and about 400 meters reach the pilgrimage site called Máriácska in a denser and noticeably cooler forest than before. The chapel was built by the people of Bene in gratitude for sparing their village from the 1713 plague epidemic. The old Máriácska pilgrimage site was formed from a cave chapel whose forecourt also serves as a rest area – a serene destination hidden among creeks running through the dense forest. Approaching from the chapel’s rooftop side you first see the stone cross, then descending the steps the building opens before you. The designers also thought about travelers: a statue of Saint Christopher watching over them is present. Máriácska was a pilgrimage site between 1713 and 1947: the procession started early from Gyöngyös, arriving here after the 10 a.m. mass in Mátrafüred. At 3 p.m., the Loretto litany was recited, and the pilgrims returned to Gyöngyös. The communist regime banned the ceremony, and the tradition did not revive anymore.

We flow with the water along the canal of the Kalló mills

We conclude our hike following the S+ sign along the Bene stream and the parallel, artificial channel of the mill stream. On the Benevár ridge east of us stood the former Benevár castle, and south of it, on Kőporos hill, was the village of Bene. The first written mention of the settlement, also called Beneváraalja and Benepuszta, dates back to 1301. Until the 19th century, before the spread of industrial revolution machines, a series of fulling mills powered by water operated on the Bene stream. Not only there: 20 such mills also operated in the town of Gyöngyös! The mills’ productivity was nowhere near that of steam engines, so the industry in Bene declined and the settlement was eventually completely depopulated. Apart from the pilgrimage site of Máriácska and the remains of Benevár, only a nameless mill stream flowing toward Mátrafüred recalls the textile industry.

We descend on an extremely atmospheric promenade along the straight-flowing stream, and looking left, the valley floor sinks ever deeper. Near the youth camp line, we approach the K+ marked hiking trail, beside which stands a beautiful forest resting place next to the Bene stream. We can descend on a few unmarked paths but be careful as the hillside is extremely steep!

Following the original planned route, we return safely to the center of Mátrafüred.