Sástó–Kékes circular hike

Itinerary

• From Sástó cross road 24 and start on the S+ trail heading east, then southeast all the way to the Rákóczi spring and beyond. From here the S+ marking runs together with the P● marking for a while.
• At Máriácska, a forest shrine of Mary, cross the stream and turn left, i.e. northward along the P marking, from which the K◼ mark branches off immediately to the right. Follow this in a south-southeastern direction until it merges with the K+ and K▲ markings!
• Although the latter also leads directly to Kékestető, now choose the K+ marking! Walking left, i.e. north, we pass by Benevár. From here the path persistently takes us uphill.
• Well further up, after the Remete cave, the P+ joins from the left, then K▲ from the right. We can still follow the K+ marking, which from here cuts across the paved road several times heading toward Kékestető, passing the Jávros spring.
• At the top of the ski slope, we join the K marking. Following this uphill at first, we immediately reach the Kékestető summit, but after resting we have to descend along it next to the ski slope, passing Mátraháza,
• At Mátraháza, on reaching and crossing road 24, turn left onto the S▲ marking and after leaving the parking lot towards the forest follow it southwest. When the S+ joins from the left, continue on it without changing direction, i.e. still southwest. The S+ will take us back directly to Sástó, passing the Farkas spring.

Detailed description of the hike

It is worth starting our hike by climbing the 50-meter high Sástó lookout tower, resurrected from a former drilling tower, which offers a stunning panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and the town of Gyöngyös below. The iron staircase leading upward becomes increasingly narrow and is not recommended for those uncomfortable with exposed spots; in spring or summer, it is better to row a boat on the barely 1-meter deep Sás Lake, fed by rainwater, which originally was a marshy area developed into its present form in the 1960s.

After replenishing our supplies at the buffet, cross road 24 and set out on the S+ marking west-southwest. We descend for now, and the first sight on our way is the Rákóczi spring, known for its unique water. Somewhat lower along the stream we soon reach the charming Máriácska, a 300-year-old forest shrine where we find a crucifix and statues of Mary and Saint Christopher. Saint Christopher is considered the protector of travelers, so he would surely watch over us if he weren’t locked behind a battered iron grate carrying the child on his shoulders...

Máriácska offers a good opportunity to gather strength in quiet reflection for the challenge ahead. From here we turn onto the K◼ marking, which leads us to the K+ marking that signals the start of the long ascent. Heading uphill we soon reach the ruins of Benevár. This structure, likely built at the end of the 13th century and first documented in 1301, was probably a private castle with no major historical significance. Today only a few walls remain, and a wooden well-house has been built over the presumed location of the cistern. The castle was mentioned as a ruin as early as 1497. From the walls we can still glimpse the top of the Sástó lookout.

Following the K+ marking, we persistently climb along the Benevár ridge, conquering the remaining elevation to Kékestető. On the KΩ marking a 90-meter detour allows us to rest at the Remete cave, where in winter large icicles often hang from the cliff. At this time, without foliage in the forest, it is easier to spot wild animals; a mother mouflon and her lamb accompanied us for a long time. Continuing along the K+ marking we reach the unfortunately quite depressed state of the Ménescsapás pine forest, behind which rises an imposing gray block beech forest, signaling the high altitude.

We are now 850 meters above sea level, so the ascent nears its end. Soon from the left the P+ marking joins, then from the right the K▲ marking, which from here continues together with K+ to Kékestető. At the Jávros spring, one of the highest springs in our country, we can fill our water bottles with potable water and even rest in the nearby stone-built rain shelter. Indeed, the goal is close: the Kékestető parking and the national-color stone indicating the 1014-meter point are just a few hundred meters away.

At the top we can rest, and at the old summit ski slope's Tető Restaurant (open from 9 am to 4 pm throughout the holidays except December 24) we can replenish calories with warm food, even with steamed dumplings fitting the mountain environment. If tempted, it’s worth taking the lift up to the transmission tower which also serves as a lookout — after all, there is no higher viewpoint in Hungary.

From here our path leads entirely downhill. First, follow the K marking, part of the National Blue Trail, along the right side of the new ski slope: we lose significant elevation in a short distance — 260 meters in just 2 km — before arriving at picturesque Mátraháza, where eight different markings intersect. After crossing road 24, turn left onto the S▲ marking, which leads through the parking lot and into the forest.

A little further down the S+ joins from the left. Now switch to this, but not left, continuing downhill. Along the path known as the Little Rákóczi tourist trail, we soon reach the Farkas spring at the base of Farkas rock, hidden in the shade of beech woods. This spring, with a modest water output, has its water flow determined by precipitation due to the low permeability of the andesite bedrock, similar to other springs in the Mátra. On the opposite bank of the stream a small wooden footbridge leads to a wooden rain shelter.