At the foot of the witness hills in the Balaton Uplands

Itinerary

• Starting from the Tapolca train station, take the first exit to the right at the roundabout. From here, you don’t need to turn off in any direction until you reach road 71.
• When you reach road 71, turn right and continue the tour on the Balaton lakeside bike path until the junction at Szigliget – turn left here.
• In Szigliget, turn left by the castle (small square in front of it) onto Kossuth Street. (You can reach the castle by turning left onto Kisfaludy Street.)
• Follow Kossuth Street, then Réhely Street to the ruins of the Avasi church (small detour), from which Iharos Road leads towards Badacsonytördemic.
• At the border of Badacsonytördemic, cross road 71 and enter the village straight ahead, then turn right upon reaching Hősök Street (the village’s main street).
• From here, continue straight along the Roman Road to the church in Badacsonytomaj.
• At the church, turn right then, upon reaching road 71, turn left – the Balaton lakeside bike path continues opposite in Vasút Street, but if you don’t want to jump onto the sidewalk, you can also take the bike path a bit further on the entrance road of the train station.
• Follow the lakeside bike path to Ábrahámhegy, then upon reaching the Ábrahámhegy railway stop, turn left, cross the tracks, then immediately turn right (road 71), and at the next opportunity turn left onto Patak Street leading to Salföld (if you don’t want to turn left from road 71 due to traffic, you can push your bike across, or cross straight from the parking lot to the other side).
• Upon reaching Salföld, turn left onto the road leading into the village. If you want to make a detour to the Pauline monastery, turn left at the first opportunity onto the dirt road leading to the cemetery and follow this road to the ruins.
• Returning to Salföld, continue through the village’s main street, then turn left upon reaching the main road.
• At the Kékkút junction, turn right; to reach the Theodora spring, cross the village and go a few hundred meters further toward Kővágóörs. Return along the same road to the Kékkút junction and continue toward Tapolca.
• At the next junction, turn left (toward Tapolca), then at the Káptalantóti junction, turn right onto a wide country road – this leads straight to Diszel under Csobánc.
• In Diszel, you don’t need to turn off in any direction from the street you entered; Miklós Street and Szabó Ervin Street lead straight to the Tapolca bike path.
• Arriving in Tapolca, take the first exit at the roundabout (“Centrum”), then follow the road through the city center (Kossuth Lajos Street, then Hősök Square) to the junction with Dózsa György Street, which leads to the train station (turn left at this intersection toward Veszprém/Szigliget). Short detours of a few hundred meters are needed in the downtown for the cave or Malom Lake.

Detailed tour description

From Tapolca, a town a little farther from the lake, we start the tour at its train station, covering the lakeshore and the Káli Basin. We will only enter the town at the end of the tour, but fortunately, there is an unusual sight already at the station: the nose of a diesel locomotive protrudes from the water tower. (The water tower was essentially a smaller water tower vital in the steam era for servicing locomotives.) This requires some explanation since usually steam engines are displayed. Although no longer visible, Tapolca was once an important hub with a locomotive depot (traction headquarters), primarily serving the northern Balaton railway line and the line toward Celldömölk. The displayed sculpture locomotive belonged to the M61 type: produced by the Swedish NoHAB factory for MÁV, of 20 locomotives, many enjoyed a cult status among rail enthusiasts, serving until the late 1990s, with their last station being Tapolca.

After this small railway history detour, we head toward Lake Balaton and the first witness hill! Although everyone knows the typical geological formations of the Balaton Uplands, it’s perhaps worth defining what these formations are and how they were created millions of years ago. Once the Pannonian Sea rocked in the Carpathian Basin, and the layers deposited on its sediments were hardened basalt and basalt tufa layers formed by a series of volcanic eruptions 3 to 8 million years ago. Thanks to long and persistent natural work, the marine sediment gradually eroded, but neither wind nor water could wear away the basalt, so it remained, bearing witness to the original elevation of the terrain.

Besides long-term basalt quarrying in the area for road base or crushed stone for railway trackbeds, the soil formed on it is particularly good for the vineyards and the wines made from them here. There is no proper witness hill in the area without tended vineyards, charming wine cellars, renowned wineries, and legends explaining the hill’s formation.

The story of Saint George Hill is connected to the Dragon’s Lair, an ice cave (or rather a chilly cave). In the chamber formed among the fallen basalt organs, winter cold gets trapped, which the summer heat cannot displace, so cool air flows from inside the hill even on hot days. Legend says the cave was once inhabited by a dragon slain by Saint George himself. Another story tells how the dragon regularly kidnapped girls from the nearby village; once it fell ill, villagers cared for it, and thereafter they coexisted peacefully. The dragon eventually grew old, and its last breath turned the cave into an ice cave.

The route bypasses the hill from the west, touching Raposka and passing through Hegymagas. After leaving the village, it is worth making a short detour among the southern foothill vineyards: on the hillside stand the Lengyel Chapel and Tarányi Wine Cellar side by side. Both buildings, attracting attention with their yellowish color from afar, were built around 1760 by the Lengyel family of Tót. The church-sized baroque chapel is notable for its carved wooden baroque-rococo altar just as much as the statues of saints standing in its stone niches on the tower. The carvings decorating the facade of the neighboring wine cellar depict Bacchus riding a barrel, Ceres, Diana, and Flora alongside the coat of arms of the Lengyel family. Even if only for the view, it’s definitely worth making a detour here, overcoming ascents occasionally reaching 10 percent slopes.

We continue toward the lake on the usually not too busy road leading from Tapolca to the shore, then upon reaching road 71, continue on the Balaton bike path. Szigliget is the next settlement, now on the lakeshore, best known for its castle, but before climbing inside the walls, we ride past Eszterházy Castle. The castle was built in the 1830s and came into the ownership of Count Pál Esterházy in the 1910s, when it gained its current form. The noble residence is most noted for having operated as a literary retreat since 1952, also visited by painters, sculptors, artisans, photographers, and composers.

The “Castle of Balaton” has stood on the hilltop since the 13th century (the first buildings and walls were built by the Benedictines of Pannonhalma between 1260-62), changing owners several times until the Turkish era. In the 16th century, it belonged to the aforementioned Lengyel family and successfully resisted Turkish raids. The fortification, which had lost its military significance over time, met its fate by lightning striking and exploding gunpowder stored in a tower, and Emperor Leopold I had the ruins demolished. Today, the castle is not only a fantastic lookout point but also houses a baroque kitchen, weapon exhibition, castle history exhibit, and a reconstructed castle chapel. Many programs await visitors from autumn to spring, including falconry shows, musical evenings, squire inaugurations, and entertaining knights.

In the old village below the castle, among winding streets and white reed-roofed houses, we continue toward Badacsony, passing the ruins of the Avasi church. The ruins are probably of a parish church of the old village destroyed during the Turkish era and never restored after Ottoman rule. There may have been a building here in Roman times as well, evidenced by several finds, and a legend is connected to the church: "In front of the church, there used to be a stone goat. Children used to play and ride on it…One Sunday, a soldier came and split the stone goat in two with a big axe. It was full of gold coins. The Turks left the stone goat here. The soldier was also Turkish, so he knew what the stone goat contained. The soldier took the money, and later the children broke apart the goat.”

From Szigliget, we head toward the skirt of Badacsony, first passing through Badacsonytördemic, then rolling along the Roman road (also part of the Balaton cycling circuit) toward Badacsonytomaj. This road indeed may have originated in Roman times, connecting villa farms and village-like settlements several hundred meters to 1-3 kilometers from the lake shore (when the water level of the lake fluctuated significantly).

On the southern slopes of Badacsony, vineyards appear with small and large wine cellars, often quite spacious. Viticulture in this area probably took root in Roman times and remains very popular: the proximity to Lake Balaton and volcanic origin create outstanding Szürkebarát, Kéknyelű, Olaszrizling, and even Vermouth wines, which can be tasted in countless wineries. This applies to any nearby settlements belonging to the Badacsony wine region.

Perhaps the most famous wine cellar in Badacsony belonged to Sándor Kisfaludy, now operating as a restaurant with a wonderful view of Lake Balaton. The Szegedy Róza house (where the poet and his wife lived) is now a memorial museum, as is the house of József Egry, the “painter of Balaton,” which also functions as an exhibition venue.

Badacsony has a harbor; those wanting to go down to the lake can do so at several beaches by the pier in summer. Riding eastward along the Roman road, we first leave behind the Saint Donatus chapel, built from basalt, then reach the Saint Imre Church in Badacsonytomaj, built in 1931-32 in neo-Romanesque style using local materials. Several sources mention it as one of two churches built from basalt in Europe. (A quick English search indeed confirms the uniqueness of the Saint Imre parish church.)

After crossing road 71 at Badacsonytomaj, we leave toward Ábrahámhegy turning onto the bike path by the train station. Near the border of Badacsonyörs, at a cool cyclist resting place, we can replenish lost energy, repair if needed, or make a detour to the nearby Folly Arboretum situated on the hillside, where you can take a little rest before climbing. The botanical garden, mostly showing conifers, forms an integral part of the nursery, vineyard, and winery, with a nature trail guiding visitors through.

From Ábrahámhegy, we head through the Burnót creek valley toward the western edge of the Káli Basin, to Salföld. Before entering Salföld, it is worth visiting the nearby forest ruins of the Pauline monastery (a dirt road leads to the former church, so you need at least a trekking bike or a short walk for this detour). Going deeper into the forest along the cart path, we first arrive at a small clearing, then above it unfolds the surprisingly large ruin – the main nave of the church was 21.6 meters long and 7.9 meters wide, attached to a quadrangular monastery built with a former cloister, where a stone well still stands today. It was probably not the only Hungarian-founded monastic order initially, and the Paulines used it for only two centuries. By the 16th century, it was likely completely deserted; it is practically a miracle that the ruins are still visible today – the main nave’s walls withstood the test of time better while only wall sections up to about knee height remain of the monastery, but with vivid imagination, you can still picture how the building looked.

Salföld is a charming small village at the westernmost corner of the Káli Basin, alongside many old, atmospheric peasant houses. The main attraction is the Balaton Uplands National Park farmstead. In addition to visiting the spice and plant garden, agricultural machinery exhibition, and photo exhibitions in its buildings, horse riding and carriage rides are also available. For those wanting to rest a bit before the remaining kilometers, we recommend either the Pajta Inn and Gallery in the village or relaxing on the sandy shores of the Salföld mining ponds.

The next stop is Kékkút and the Theodora spring beyond the village. The mineral water bottled for over 110 years at Kékkút is well known throughout the country, and some legends say it was the favorite drink of Byzantine Empress Theodora. It is almost certain that the spring water was known and consumed already in Roman times, and a map from the late 18th century even labeled it as “sour water.” Today, the flowing water is accessible to anyone at a neat little spring house.

From Kékkút, we set off back toward Tapolca, but instead of the direct route, we make a small detour at the foot of Csobánc toward Diszel. At the border of Káptalantóti, you must turn right at the famous Liliomkert market onto a wide cart road between fields and vineyards. (If someone completes the route on a road bike, it’s better to continue straight toward Tapolca and skip the Diszel detour.)

Csobánc – like most of the nearby heights – is a witness hill; its flat plateau was found suitable in the 13th century by the Gyulaffy family of the Rátót clan to build a castle (though it is also possible that the nobles of Diszel started the construction). At the end of the 15th century – on the orders of Pál Kinizsi – its strengthening succeeded so well that it continuously resisted Turkish sieges and even played a role during the Rákóczi War of Independence: it was captured by Kurucs in 1705 and held for four years. Subsequently, the imperial forces took no chances and began blasting demolition; by 1722, it’s mentioned only as a ruin. Anyone attempting to conquer the 376-meter-high summit (with a mountain bike, if in good shape, it’s not entirely impossible to climb) will soon understand why it was nearly impossible to capture the castle. The steep hillside offers an unparalleled panorama: all nearby witness hills, the Káli Basin, the Keszthely Mountains, Tapolca, and even the sparkling water of Lake Balaton come into view. If anything, this is certainly worth the effort.

At the northern foot of Csobánc lies Diszel. Numerous mills, grinding flour or cutting planks, were built on the streams feeding the surrounding waters (the most significant of which is the Eger creek) – there were 11 mills in Kapolcs alone, and at least thirty along the entire creek. There were also eight mills and an iron hammer in Diszel’s vicinity, among which the Stankovics (or Fekecs) mill today houses the First Hungarian Museum of Sight. The probably centuries-old grinding site was acquired by György Stankovics in 1905; one of the buildings, previously an oil-pressing mill, was converted into a residence, the other was modernized by removing water wheels and replacing them with a water turbine, additionally installing modern rolling mills, sieves, shelling machines, grinding devices, cleaning machines, and bucket elevators. The two buildings, the mill, and the miller’s house, were connected by a two-story bridge house, with the engine room on the lower floor and the passage between the mill and residence above. This formed today’s building, which started operating as an exhibition place after thorough renovation in 1997. The complex hosts exhibitions, events, lectures, concerts every year, and also has a pipe museum.

The bike path toward Tapolca follows the route of the former mining railway from Diszel’s border. Like almost all nearby witness hills, the Hajagos Hill near Diszel provided excellent raw materials for road and railway construction, and the Balaton Regional Railway Construction Company opened a quarry here in the mid-1910s. From 1926 to 1982, a narrow-gauge railway transported the extracted stone to the Tapolca main railway station; the bike path today follows the former route of this mining railway for kilometers next to the busy main road 77.

Our starting and finishing point is Tapolca, the district seat most famous for its cave lake and lake. The popular cave lake is 3280 meters long, and since several caves are connected forming a common system under the city, it is Hungary’s fourth-longest cave system.

The popular tourist spot was discovered during well digging in 1903, and barely a decade later, electric lighting was installed inside, opening it to the public. At the entrance of the cave, which dried out for long due to bauxite mining in Nyirád, an exhibition at the Balaton Uplands National Park Visitor Center showcases the amazing world of karst areas, while underground the actual work of karst water can be admired, and you can even take a boat ride on the crystal-clear water feeding the Mill Lake.

The next and final destination on the tour is Mill Lake, located in the middle of the town in a special environment. The atmosphere is partly provided by the mill built in the 13th-14th centuries and partly by the buildings surrounding the small lake, slightly transporting the visitor back in time. The tour can be properly closed with a dinner by the lake, accompanied by a glass of Badacsony wine. Returning to Tapolca train station, we can take one last look at Saint George Hill. Károly Eötvös writes about it in his work Traveling around Lake Balaton: “There stands Saint George’s hill. With silent dignity, majestic calm. It is also a cone. It was also a volcano millions of years ago. Muscles bulge on its mighty shoulders. Each muscle bulge is a huge rock ball. Yet the whole hill is round; some wonderful tool carved the creation smooth and rounded. It is not a hill but a relief.”