Walk: Corniglia to Vernazza, via San Bernardino

If you’re looking for a more spectacular and less well trodden alternative to the SVA between Corniglia to Vernazza, this is the one for you.

From Corniglia railway station, head westward up the colossal flight of stone steps that is the Scalinata Lardarina towards the village centre. At the top, cross the Via alla Stazione onto pathway, and almost immediately take a right onto the 587 trail, signed to Cigoletta (rather than the SVA to Vernazza).

From here you soon leave houses behind, and it’s a fairly long ascent to the main mountain ridge, but the gradient isn’t too bad, and much of the trail is amongst shady forest. Watch out for the junction of the 587 and 586 trails along the way - make sure to take the 587. Views across to San Bernadino open up gradually as you ascend. The trail reaches the crest of the ridge near Prato del Monte and from here there is a short, welcome section of level walking to the pass at Cigoletta.

The descent soon begins, initially on track and then cutting twice across a road as it zig-zags its way down the hillside (watch carefully here for waymarking, which becomes scarce). Soon you’ll reach the church and village of San Bernardino - the church is worth a visit, as is the cafe in the village. A bus stop here could also be used to avoid the descent to Vernazza.

From San Bernardino the descent becomes particularly steep, and occasionally a little exposed. Waymarking is sparse so pay close attention to your map. You’ll begin to pass houses as you approach Vernazza, as well as a park checkpoint.