Chania Trails - APO 06 - At the Outskirts of the Historic Capital of Apokoronas

Walking along the narrow, cobbled streets of Vamos – be they bustling thoroughfares or quieter residential roads – we cross paths with sundry locals, visitors and Europeans who chose to make Apokoronas their second home. Elegant public buildings with neoclassical elements, well-maintained or restored residences, and a wealth of cultural activities serve as a reminder that Vamos still is Apokoronas’ historic capital.

Our route takes us on to Douliana, where we are welcomed by a traditional kafeneio run by a cooperative, old cobbled alleys and restored village houses that carry on the local vernacular architecture. It then leads onto what is one of Crete’s most beautiful nature trails, with the Church of Agios Ioannis – which also lends its name to the small leafy gorge we cross along the way – to our right. 

Our next stop is Gavalochori, without doubt one of the island’s most charming villages and a successful example of that tricky combination of tourism development and sustainable cultural

management. You may catch a gathering of local women knitting with the traditional kopaneli technique on the main square, while the nearby Museum of Folk Art is, in every respect, a jewel in Apokoronas’ crown and a delight for anyone passing through.

Passing the village’s renowned wells – 30 survive today, hewn into the rock during the Byzantine period – we continue our journey towards Xirosterni. The village is best known for its remarkable contribution to traditional Cretan music, having given us one of its most beautiful verses, a song inspired by its water and beautiful maidens.

The last part of the trail crosses the beautifully preserved village of Litsarda; the paths surrounding it also serve the purpose of protecting and showcasing the area’s biodiversity.