Chania Trails - APO 04 - The Cypress Villages

Walking the trail that connects Vafes, Tzitzifes, Fres and Nipos, we are introduced to these historical villages, to noteworthy traditional buildings and also to the activities keeping the local economy going and the real way of life of the area’s residents.

A walk around the narrow streets of Vafes, a village that has been listed for protection, we see the evolution of different architectural styles: from the latter period of Venetian rule to the early Ottoman occupation and the second half of the 19th century. A stop at the nearby Kryonerida Cave, meanwhile, transports us to the 1821 War of Independence.

Moving on, the village of Tzitzife is named after the “tzitzifia” wild olive tree, which thrives in this area and also grows around the village’s traditional water fountain. There, under the cool shade of massive, leafy plane trees, we drink from the chilled waters of the Lefka Ori mountains. The village is also known for an essential oil of wild bay known as Karabasi, which is believed to have all sorts of healing properties and is still made in the traditional manner.

In neighboring Fre, the path traverses the village’s main square. Its old-school kafeneia and shops, the overall atmosphere of a bygone era, create an instant sense of familiarity for the visitor: This square is often featured in movies, TV shows and ads, making it one of Crete’s most recognizable settings.

The final stretch of our trek takes us past springs, vineyards and copses of cypress trees, as it winds around and through the village of Nipos, offering us a most generous view of the White Mountains and Psiloritis in the distance.