Through forest roads in the most beautiful landscapes of Zemplén

Itinerary

• Start on the bike path in front of the narrow-gauge railway terminus, heading west, parallel to the narrow-gauge railway track, following the bike path around the mill building until its end.
• At the end of the bike path, turn left, then after leaving the last houses of Pálháza, take the first junction left again, towards Kishuta/Nagyhuta.
• At Kishuta take the first junction left towards Kőkapu; follow the asphalt road all the way to Rostalló, the narrow-gauge railway terminus. This is the first junction after the castle; turn right here and follow the forestry road upwards in the Rostalló stream valley.
• Where the S tourist sign turns left at a fork, continue the road by turning right onto the forestry road – from here, your job is to follow the well-traveled, wide road (at one point you must turn sharply back right).
• After reaching an old loading site, the forestry road runs into an asphalt road – continue the tour on this asphalt road until you reach the road connecting Pálháza and Telkibánya. Turn left here and cycle about 2 kilometers on this subordinate road, closed by a barrier, then turn right.
• After bypassing the barrier, follow the forestry road uphill until it joins an asphalt road – turn right here, and continue the climb. Where the asphalt road turns left, continue straight ahead, and do the same at the next junction. You will reach Hollóháza on this continuously descending forestry road.
• Upon arriving at Hollóháza, immediately turn left on the first street (Rákóczi Ferenc street), and cycle along it. Upon reaching the bus turning circle, turn right (Szent László road) and cycle along this road to Füzérkomlós (you can cycle a short section on the bike path).
• Arriving at Füzérkomlós, turn right at the first opportunity (Ady Endre street), then at the bike path (second junction), turn left. Follow the bike path to the end, then cycle along Rakodó lane, at the end of which turn right, then at the next opportunity left – this road leads straight to Füzér.
• Arriving at Füzér, turn left at the church, then again left, then right at the next opportunity, then left again towards the castle. This road leads to the castle parking lot, from where you can climb to the castle gate by bike.
• From the castle parking lot, cycle back all the way down Szabadság street to the village, turn right at the end of the street, then left at the next opportunity. Continue straight to the end of this road, then turn towards Sátoraljaújhely (left) – from here, just keep going straight to the Pálháza narrow-gauge railway terminus.

Detailed description of the tour

We start the hike in Pálháza – Hungary’s northernmost city – beside the new station building of the narrow-gauge railway. (By the way, the bike path leading here from Sátoraljaújhely was built on the route of the once largest Hegyközi Narrow-Gauge Railway – the railway will be mentioned later.) Immediately in the parking lot, we can discover an interesting attraction, the Perlite Museum. But what is perlite, and why does Pálháza have a museum for it?

The narrow-gauge railway leading from the perlite mine through the glassworks to the castle

Pálháza – although not apparent from afar, and its history does not necessarily predestine it for this – has functioned as a kind of local industrial center since the late 19th century. The village, which once belonged to the Füzér estate, was depopulated at least twice during the storms of history: first during the Turkish occupation, second during the 1711 plague epidemic. Both times it was resettled, so it is possible that in 1875 the sawmill (predecessor of today’s sawmill) opened, and in 1888 Hungary’s first forest railway was built in the Kemence stream valley, which still operates today. The perlite mine was opened in 1958 in the village border, and surface mining has been ongoing since then.

Hungary’s only perlite mine has thus been operating for over sixty years on the border of Pálháza. Perlite is a volcanic rock with relatively high water content, basically a variant of rhyolite. The high water content is important because if the mineral is crushed and then heated to a high temperature (850-900 degrees Celsius), the water inside boils and escapes through the capillaries, while the material expands to 7-16 times its original volume – in fact, a process somewhat like making popcorn occurs. The resulting lightweight, airy material is used in large quantities in construction for insulation, and in agriculture for soil improvement by loosening soil mixtures. Furthermore, Hungary occupies a prestigious position in the world's perlite production, ranking 5th-6th in quantity. It is no wonder that there is a museum in Pálháza for this particular mineral considered special from this point of view.

Starting from Pálháza, we also roll past the Perlite Museum, then bypass a beautifully renovated former mill building, now operating as a restaurant – an ideal destination at the end of the tour. Turning off the bike path, there is also the opportunity to visit another mill: the Pálháza Water Mill awaits visitors by a small lake (with prior appointment).

Leaving the settlement behind, we travel in the Kemence stream valley parallel to the Pálháza narrow-gauge railway track into the core of Zemplén. Count István Károlyi built the 7-kilometer track, initially operating on a 700 mm gauge (today the rails are 6 cm farther apart), for transporting timber harvested from the Zemplén forests, from Kőkapu to Pálháza. The tunnel enabling a 4-kilometer extension of the line was constructed only decades later; trains have passed through it since the early 1900s under the hunting castle in a picturesque environment. The initially horse-drawn, roller rail operated railway was connected to the Hegyközi Narrow-Gauge Railway built in 1924, forming a huge network. The Hegyközi Narrow-Gauge Railway traffic ceased in 1980, but the forest railway track remained, and today small trains still clatter over eight kilometers between Pálháza and Rostalló.

The narrow-gauge railway track disappears from sight for a while and reappears near Kishuta border. The settlement fits into the series of Zemplén glassworks (Nagyhuta, Óhuta, Középhuta, Újhuta), its name is descriptive: it was established in the 18th century as a settlement of Slovak nationality glassworks workers, under the name Nova Huta (meaning New Glassworks). The glassworks is a workshop producing and processing glass – since the process requires high heat, it is no coincidence that the glassworks were set up in large forested areas where the wood supply provided fuel for the melting furnace operation.

Leaving Kishuta, we continue in the Kemence stream valley on a very good quality, gently ascending asphalt road. Passing some houses of Kemencepatak, we cross the narrow-gauge railway track and soon reach Áfonyás lake next to Kőkapu. The lake was created by damming five streams; it is worth resting here for a bit and enjoying the sight of Kőkapu and the castle on top. The building on the rock was first built in the late 1880s by Count László Károlyi, and at the turn of the century, another lower building next to the tunnel of the narrow-gauge railway was built, initially providing accommodation for hunters (notables such as Miklós Horthy, István Bethlen, and Mátyás Rákosi also visited), now operating as a hotel. There is also an excellent restaurant here, though it is not recommended to eat too much before the first serious climb coming up. Alongside the Hétvezér and Vèrondszerdés statue groups, one can admire great figures of Hungarian history depicted in wood here.

After Kőkapu, you only need to go a few hundred meters to Rostalló, where at the narrow-gauge railway terminus we turn right – finally, the forestry road begins. Nearby is RÖNK, the Rostalló Eco-conscious Educational Center providing forest school and accommodation services along with interactive environmental education. It can be a great relaxation to stay literally in the middle of the forest. We now embark on the path of active relaxation and start the first steeper climb in the Rostalló stream valley, on a forestry road. We stop at the Dérföldi spring to refill fresh water, then continue the ascent until a saddle point where a large log stacking area serves forestry purposes. From here begins a multi-kilometer ride on sometimes better, sometimes worse quality asphalt, requiring care due to its varying condition.

Gold, silver, porcelain

Entering the valley of the Bózsva stream, we pass through a larger pasture and then reach the road connecting Telkibánya and Pálháza, where we turn left. Compared to the zero traffic so far, this may seem a busy road, but partly it is only an appearance, and secondly, we only need to travel two kilometers towards Telkibánya, then turn right onto a barrier-closed forestry road. At the settlement border, we start the ascent towards Kánya Hill, soon passing the Fehér Hill quarry. As its name suggests, the rock is indeed quite light-colored, being rhyolite, a rock with high silica content. Rhyolite and rhyolitic tuff are the most common rock types around Telkibánya. Along the road, near the mine, an information board, part of the Gold Miners’ Trail, provides extensive information about these two rock types; for example, the route’s name is no accident, as Telkibánya was one of the best-known gold mining settlements in the late Middle Ages. The first mention of gold mining dates back to 1341, the year King Louis the Great raised the settlement to mining town status. As the gold veins were depleted, mining declined and stopped for almost 200 years. Gold mining restarted in the era of Maria Theresa, and the local gold and silver mines certainly operated into the early 19th century. It is also worth making a detour to the village to see the unique kopjafa cemetery and the medieval hospital ruins beside the St. Catherine chapel, both unique attractions.

Leaving the Fehér Hill quarry, the road continues to ascend and reaches the asphalt road leading to the summit of Kánya Hill – turn right and continue the climb on the asphalt. At the summit is a NATO communication station; it is not worth climbing up because the strictly guarded military facility can only be observed from afar beyond the fence, monitored by an armed security guard’s piercing gaze. So where the asphalt road turns sharply left, continue straight on the dirt road through the pines. Soon we reach a junction (Adorján-tető), where we go straight on – the pleasant forestry road descends all the way to Hollóháza. It is not a too technical descent, but continuous attention is needed because one can roll at relatively high speed, while the road is not uniformly smooth, with ruts and potholes caused by forestry machines making some sections exciting.

Arriving at Hollóháza, we first turn towards the Saint László church. The truly special building was elevated in 1967 after the village’s old baroque-style church was demolished during the porcelain factory expansion. The Ybl Award-winning architect László Csaba designed this church, which consists of three large, interconnected tent-like concrete triangles. The light refractions in the interior create a unique atmosphere, complemented by Margit Kovács’s ceramic sculptures (the stations of the cross). The three-bodied building is worth walking around and observing from every direction. From here, it is only a few meters to the memorial marking the eastern endpoint of the National Blue Trail, located on a small green island in the middle of a bus turnaround. Unfortunately, no section of the National Bicycle Blue Trail is now passable, but it is worth taking a photo at the endpoint rock together with the bike, or perhaps the modestly positioned milestone nearby.

After leaving the bus turning circle, we continue towards the Hollóháza Porcelain Factory. The factory began operating in 1777 under the name Hollóházi Porcelain Manufactory on the estates of the Károlyis. Hand-painted roses, wildflowers, and colorful bouquets decorated the products, and it can be said that Hollóháza supplied the rural population of Hungary with household objects until the end of the 19th century, even exporting in the second half of the century. After World War II, the factory was nationalized and, for a time, only manufactured porcelain insulators here. Nowadays, it mainly produces tableware and decorative objects, with a shop and a museum in Hollóháza, where visitors can even try porcelain painting in the visitor creativity center.

Narrow-gauge railway memorial with the castle in the background

Towards Füzérkomlós, we can continue cycling on an excellent quality bike path for a section, then continue on the road. Upon entering the settlement, we do not take the shortest route: at the first opportunity, turn right, then turn left at the bike path. After a right and a sharp left turn, we arrive at a wider area – the white castle of Füzér gleams in the background, while a red locomotive stands deserted on the right side of the bike path, seemingly completely purposeless. However, if we know that Füzérkomlós was once the northernmost terminus of a narrow-gauge railway network stretching from Nyíregyháza to Zemplén, the displayed engine immediately makes sense: no trains have run here since 1980, but at the former station, a diesel locomotive preserves the memory of a successful history.

The Hegyközi Narrow-Gauge Railway connecting Sátoraljaújhely and Füzérkomlós was built in 1924, then connected to the Bodrogközi Narrow-Gauge Railway three years later, and three years after that, also to the Nyírvidéki narrow-gauge with the construction of the Tisza bridge between Balsa and Kenézlő. At its prime, the narrow-gauge railway connected Zemplén with Nyírség, and during World War II, one could also get to Királyhelmec on the network; fast railcars ran between Nyíregyháza and Sátoraljaújhely, reaching speeds of up to 60 km/h across the Alföld sections. (Between Nyíregyháza and Sóstó, uniquely, the narrow-gauge railway also operated as an electric tram, similar to a historical tram-train system.) However, the Tisza bridge was short-lived; it was blown up by the Germans in 1944 and never rebuilt, and traffic on the Hegyközi narrow-gauge railway ceased in 1980.

After recalling the more recent past, we turn towards Füzér to travel back centuries in time. Of course, we still have a few kilometers to fight through, and between the two settlements, a smaller but also a bigger climb on the road leading up to the castle, which is worth it. On the road from Füzérkomlós to Füzér, only cyclists can travel on the excellent quality asphalt – if we didn’t know where we were, Austria and Slovenia could be the first two guesses based on the infrastructure and the landscape. During the tour, the landscape truly opens up for the first time, dominated naturally by the castle of Füzér standing on the rock, with the peaks of Zemplén waving in the background. At the highest point of this stretch, under a large tree beside a cross, a table and two benches await the tired cyclist tourist.

Arriving at Füzér, it is worth spending a few minutes at the local Roman Catholic church before the castle assault, which fortunately is right on the way. Originally built in Romanesque style in the 13th century, it was Baroque-ized in 1808 with the addition of a tower; however, the southern gate's frame remained Romanesque and can be viewed even if the building is closed.

From the church, we head towards the castle – the asphalt road leading to the parking lot already ascends continuously, but the real challenge is the climb from the parking lot to the castle gate, which will be tough for those who want to cycle up. Beyond the castle gate, cycling further is not allowed; from here, 50 meters of elevation must be covered on stairs and rocky paths to the hilltop where the castle stands. The castle hill formed 13 million years ago thanks to a series of lava flows; it is basically the remains of a volcanic vent, the rock material also taking on a characteristic columnar structure thanks to gradual cooling. The rocky grasslands formed on the hill host many rare and protected plant species, as well as species such as the European adder, black woodpecker, greenish warbler, and black stork.

The castle itself – or rather its predecessor – may have existed already in the early Árpád era as the stronghold of the Aba clan. It is certain that the castle stood in the early 13th century and was likely one of the first privately owned stone castles in Hungary, which changed hands countless times over the centuries until in 1676, Imperial troops rendered the castle uninhabitable, having lost its military importance. The best-known owner was the Perényi family, who owned the castle for six generations between 1387 and 1567. After the Battle of Mohács, Peter Perényi, as crown guard, brought the crown not to Visegrád but to Füzér and hid it here for at least a year until handing it over to Ferdinand of Habsburg. Under the Perényis, the castle’s perhaps most impressive part, the castle chapel, was built recently reconstructed, along with several other parts that can be freely explored. The furnishings in the rooms are more illustrative to help imagine the treasury (i.e., the castle’s treasury), the shops (the vaulted rooms), the kitchen, or even a shadow throne. Regarding the Füzér castle, it must be mentioned that its reconstruction triggered serious controversies, as it is essentially an imagined reconstruction – the window tracery, for instance, was made based on the Miskolc Avas church, the altar is not an authentic copy in the chapel, and many similar problems can be noted. The fact is that this way, the (imagined) medieval atmosphere is better experienced (and in the end, everyone can decide for themselves how to evaluate the sight), and the view is certainly the same as in the time of the Perényis – just for this reason, it is worth climbing the volcanic peak.

Rolling down from the castle, in Füzér we can visit the local folk house, recalling the folk architecture typical of Hegyköz from the 19th century, where inside the visitor can learn about peasant life through tulip chests, mirrored pictures, painted armed chests, cradles, holy images, and hand-painted plates. A few corners away, one can visit the Nagy-Milic Nature Park Visitor Center before setting out on the last ten-kilometer mostly downhill section. Upon reaching Pálháza, there are several options to have a soda or a good meal; it is advisable to plan the end of the tour accordingly.