On Zemplén rocks

Those whose landscape's regularly cone-shaped mountains remind them of volcanoes are partly right: the entire mountain range owes its existence to volcanism that formed the innermost arc of the Carpathians. However, what we mostly see on the surface are not the original shapes but forms transformed over millions of years. The most important historical relics of the mountains can be found on the bold cliffs of hard volcanic rocks that have weathered better than their surroundings: the castles of Füzér, Boldogkő, and Regéc. The whole mountainous region is called the Eperjes-Tokaji Mountains (its domestic part is often also referred to as the Tokaji Mountains), with its higher parts peaking slightly above 1000 meters located in Slovakia. We find a similar landform repertoire as in our other low volcanic mid-mountain ranges here as well. Its uniqueness mainly lies in its extensive ridges densely cut by valleys and its distinct rock towers. 

The northwestern parts of the mountain range are exciting destinations for hikers mainly due to the lookout terraces of Sólyom-kő and Amadé Rock. Between Hejce and Telkibánya or Gönc, or in the opposite direction, there is an opportunity for a pleasant hike of about 15 kilometers at a comfortable pace. Starting from Hejce, the elevation difference can be overcome faster on a shorter section, while in the opposite direction, a long climb should be expected.

After leaving the village, we first look back over the flat valley of the Hernád River, then the dense pine forest, resounding with the sound of flowing water, embraces us (red cross mark). We ascend on a wide forestry road through the pine valley of the Szerencs stream, and after about an hour's walk, we reach the Fehérkút hunting lodge. Unfortunately, accommodation options are scarce deep in the Zemplén Mountains; key and tourist houses are almost entirely missing in this relatively rarely visited mountain range, and this cabin does not expand this offer either. Yet it is a very pleasant place: in front of the building a spring bubbles and a clearing stretches out, and above its end, the plain of Hernád and the distant Cserehát peek out. Next to the spring, there are benches and tables in case we want to rest.

Along the northward trail (red mark), rock towers surrounded by boulder skirts appear. At first, only a tiny but ominously dark spot among the trees, then, as we approach, the rock formation that seemed insignificant from the trail slowly unfolds – Sólyom-kő standing sentinel at 700 meters. Its mossy, cracked rock bastion formed similarly to other Zemplén fellows, such as Sólyom-bérc, Amadé Rock, or Pengő-kő: during the ice ages, the temperature here fluctuated around the freezing point. Water freezing and thawing in the rock cracks widened the fissures and shattered, fragmented the rock. The detached rock pieces lie around the rock towers and walls, but what has remained intact standing out from its environment, we climb on top of and enjoy the panorama around.

The wide, flat Hernád valley distinctly separates from the heights of Zemplén: the boundary of the forest marks their meeting; beneath us, the area's tiny villages and the surrounding arable fields sprawl, and the rolling hills of Cserehát form the background. Opposite rises the peak of Gergely Hill at 734 meters, one of the "twins" defining the appearance of the western mountain edge, together with Magoska. It precisely blocks the view of Regéc Castle but above its eastern saddle the next ridge breaks through.

After inspecting the panorama from the top of all towers, we can continue toward the interior of the mountain. At the Borsó Hill junction, the red cross sign turns to the airplane accident memorial; we turn right on the red trail. The path bends onto a meadow, dotted with pines and occasionally bordered by birches, reminiscent of a high-mountain landscape. The strictly protected, marshy Cicés meadow is an exact replica of the clearings of the Bükk Plateau, only lacking depressions.

Cutting through a dense, green pine forest, we pass another clearing, then enter a wilderness beech forest with old, crooked trees. Here we encounter forest clearing for the first and last time on our route, for which we might be somewhat grateful for the outlook opening towards Kassa.

On the increasingly narrowing ridge, andesite rocks on the right and left mark that we are approaching the main attraction of our hike, the Amadé Rock. A breathtaking and unusually varied panorama unfolds before us: to the north, we can observe the mountain range up to the Nagy-Milic group rising on the state border, but the meadows above Telkibánya also shine at the forest edge. Below us, in the valley floor of astonishing depth relative to the elevation of the mountain range, the Gönci stream rushes hidden by dense forest. Above the valley, 700-meter peaks rise.

It is no coincidence that, unlike other parts of Zemplén, we see almost no trace of deforestation here: the Nagy-Sertéshegy Forest Reserve stretches out opposite, southeast. The purpose of the Forest Reserve Program is to ensure the undisturbed natural processes of forests in designated areas for scientific observation. Reports in recent years indicate that wolves and lynx have found a home in these inner corners of the mountain range.

Stumbling in the grip of tree Methuselahs cracking and weaving the rocks with their gnarled roots, we can barely spot the last wall remains of the Amadé Castle that once stood here. Surprisingly few compared to the fact that once Aba Amádé, the palatine and former "little king" of Northeast Hungary, hid the future Polish king, Władysław I, behind these walls.

The hiking trail descends beside the Kis stream, closely accompanying it. Following a meadow furnished with a wildlife feeder and a hunting blind, we enter a narrow valley. The combination of mossy stone runs covering the steep mountainside and the small waterfalls of the rapidly flowing stream on rock steps creates an improbably beautiful valley. The view would still be bearable for a long time, but soon we move away from the stream a bit to make a detour to the ruins of the Palos monastery in Gönc. It is somewhat surprising how small the former building could have been – at least judging by the three still standing walls.

A bit lower, after crossing a stream, we pass another richly historical, now somewhat faded building, the Potács House. On the small forest site, potash used in glass production was made long ago, which is not so surprising, considering the surrounding massive beech forests that provided the raw material. Continuing further, we enter a beech sapling forest; the forestry road rises moderately, then begins to descend.

In the sunny glade of the former ski slope above Telkibánya, the rows of solar panels of a nearby hotel now indicate the settlement's proximity. The beautifully situated village, nestled among mountains, once owed its treasure to the earth, today seemingly to tourism. The tidy, pleasant village and the accommodation options testify that this gold also shines relatively nicely.