On the panoramic edge of Szent Mihály Hill

Itinerary

• From Zebegény train station, start on the S+ trail.
• After the Dobozi-orom, after a few hundred meters, turn right onto the KΩ trail, which we follow to the Hermit Cave.
• From the Hermit Lake, continue on the SΩ trail.
• Eventually, you reach the S trail, where you turn right.
• To the Gánt rest area, a detour must be taken on the S⩍ trail.
• From the lookout point, the S trail leads into Nagymaros.
• In Szamaras Street, we now follow the S◼ signs to the train station.

Detailed description of the route

On atmospheric paths

We start from Zebegény train station on the S+ trail, passing Árpád Street which also touches the Seven-Hole Bridge, then leave Zebegény in the Naphegy neighborhood with a view of the Dőry Castle. After crossing the Ernő stream, we follow the trail called Kittenberger path among the trees. Kálmán Kittenberger, famous African explorer, zoologist, hunter, and natural scientist writer spent his last years in Nagymaros and often visited the Szent Mihály Hill, as well as many places in the Börzsöny region. We do not know whether it was his hunting passion or the marvelous view of the Danube Bend that attracted the famous hunter here, but it is certain that you can still meet many mouflons here today.

Rock terrace views

Initially, the climb is gentle, then more intense, but the effort pays off quickly. With a few short detours, we can visit splendid viewpoints such as Borostyán Rock or Dobozi-orom rocky outcrops. From these terraces, we mainly see the Danube beneath us, the opposite Pilismarót plain, and the Visegrád Mountain Range.

Our climb is accompanied by a scrubby and stunted oak forest, and in spring, a colorful abundance of hollow violets. Shortly after Dobozi-orom, we leave the S+ trail and turn right onto the KΩ trail, where we begin, in places, a steep and slippery descent. On the wild, final section, the path is difficult and requires holding onto trees, leading soon to the legendary rock caves of Szent Mihály Hill, which served as hermits' homes in the 12th century.

The Hermit Cave

On the southern side of Szent Mihály Hill, at an altitude of 220–230 meters, we find a partly artificially created group of caves, the largest of which, called the Rock Church, is commonly referred to as the Hermit Cave. It is only 29 meters long with a width and height of merely 3 meters, but the rock cavity serves as a screaming throat on the bare hillside and is clearly visible from the opposite side of the Danube.

The cave legend

In the 1800s, a hermit lived here, often visited by villagers for advice. He had a donkey that went down to the Danube daily and transported water in buckets on its back independently, along with gifts from villagers to the monk. According to the legend, the donkey once drowned, and when the hermit waited in vain, he himself died.

From the rock ledge in front of the cave entrance, we enjoy a magnificent panorama of the Danube stretching below and the Visegrád Mountains on the opposite bank. We stand at the steepest and narrowest part of the uniquely beautiful Danube gorge, where volcanic rocks appear dramatically in a spectacular cliff. This dark brown rock (andesite, dacite, and dacite tuff) tells of a geological period when, before the appearance of the Danube, Szent Mihály Hill formed a unit with the mountain range on the opposite bank. Presumably, a giant landslide later allowed water to carve its way slowly between the rising mountains, splitting the unified structure.

From the cave, we mostly continue on the SΩ trail at an even level along the boulder-strewn and sometimes fallen tree-covered hillside. It is important to know that the narrow, sideways sloping path is difficult to walk, especially in wetter periods: directly after heavy rains, it can be impassable or hazardous due to the muddy terrain.

New panoramic outcrops

Our next viewpoint is the southern outcrop of Szent Mihály Hill, the 300-meter high Ördög Hill. Shortly after, we join the S trail, from which branches the S⩍ trail — a short detour on this path takes us to the Gánt lookout. At this site, commemorating the Danube Gorge enthusiast (Dr. Tibor Gánti), an unforgettable view awaits: climbing the steep hillside through a sparse mix of hornbeam and oak, we chiefly admire the northern part of the Visegrád riverside and the ridge chain rising above it.

Returning to the S trail, we descend toward Nagymaros. Following the straight S◼ signs, we pass along the village gardens towards the center, which is our terminal point. Panorama Road and Szamaras Street lead into the town center, then on Vasút Street, we pass beside the statue of Szent Erzsébet Árpádházi and on Dózsa György Street, we visit the impressive church of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross. Nagymaros offers many attractions for hikers (e.g., the Kittenberger Kálmán Memorial House), and we can also choose among various restaurants for refreshment. However, the true closing chord of a tour with Danube Bend views can be the waterfront itself, especially during summer.