Cycling experience tour among the Somogy hills

Itinerary:

• We cycle from Balatonföldvár on the cycle path to Szántód.
• Before the ferry entrance, we turn right towards Szántódpuszta, following the 168 A sign.
• We arrive at Jabapuszta along a long forest road, where we briefly switch to the 164 A sign.
• From the Ali-rét hunting lodge follow the 166 A sign along dirt roads to the Töreki fishponds.
• We reach Balatonszéplak-alsó on a low-traffic main road, from where we roll back to our starting point, Balatonföldvár, by rejoining the cycling path.

Detailed description of the route:

Földvár, the "Fairy Garden of Balaton"

We start our route from the cycling center in Balatonföldvár, opened in 2022. The Balaton cycle path passes right in front of the building, so we immediately get on it. Cycling next to the rails is made easy to forget by the row of plane trees on the other side, but perhaps even more interesting is to cast a glance at the lakeside buildings. The bathing life of Balatonföldvár developed at the end of the 19th century on the estate of Count Viktor Széchényi. The count built a hotel, a bathing place, and a park, and soon orderly streets, parceled plots, holiday homes, and resorts grew from the ground. By the early 20th century, the settlement featured a pier, a bathhouse, then-modern street lighting, a row of bazaars, a boat harbor, and even a casino. Földvár became famous for its lively bathing and social life; the press regularly reported on local sports and cultural events. Many famous respected personalities stayed here, including Frigyes Korányi, the renowned pulmonologist, Dr. Géza Kresz, the founder of Hungary's organized ambulance service, and Gizi Bajor, the diva of the theatrical life. Later, the town also appeared in the works of Lőrinc Szabó, László Németh, and Ferenc Móra. Returning from the daydream to the cycle path, passing some buildings left from the lakeside villa row, we can imagine the aristocracy of the early century strolling here—perhaps under the same plane trees.

We quickly reach Szántód, where before the crossroads of the ferry landing, we leave the cycle path and turn slightly back to the right into Kazinczy Street opposite. Follow the signs to Szántódpuszta and from here the route number and letter sign, 168 A!

Farm and lookout – detours from the route

Leaving the houses, the cycle path continues across the shrubby plain of the Szántód grove. In the distance rises the tower of the Saint Christopher chapel of Szántódpuszta on a small hill. We cross Highway 71 at a traffic light junction, but before continuing through the parking lot, take a detour to the right to the former abbey estate. Szántódpuszta is mentioned in the first Hungarian language relic, the founding charter of the Tihany Abbey from 1055, from which we know that King Andrew I donated the area along with other estates and stud farms to the Tihany Abbey. The plain was continuously inhabited until the Turkish occupation; its current form dates from the late 18th and early 19th centuries, when the buildings were erected. The farm monument complex includes restored and exhibition-equipped buildings such as a manor house, servant's house, residential house, granary, and pony stable; it also includes the chapel already mentioned.

Continuing our way along the edges of agricultural areas, another sight may urge hikers fond of Balaton panorama to stop. On the left, a yellow stripe tourist sign on a small gravel-sandy dirt road, Roman Road, leads to the Kőhegyi Lookout. At the end, we can climb up the vineyard hill on a steep asphalted street, but it is worth it for the view. Such a panorama is rare on the southern shore with few lookouts, as the tower built on the site of the former abbey press house stands directly opposite the Tihany Peninsula, providing a perfect view of the twin-towered abbey church rising from the green environment. A spiral staircase leaning against a column leads up to the circular roofed lookout. Below, houses of lakeside settlements line up, while looking farther, we can unobstructedly view Lake Balaton from its eastern tip to the distant Badacsony. The most spectacular is the Tihany Peninsula stretching into the lake in front of the Balaton Uplands ridges, backed by the Füred Bay.

Forest experience cycling

Returning to our original route, we first cross groves and meadows, then arrive at the edge of the Öreg-forest, which clearly marks the beginning of the next section of our route. The approximately 12 km before us is an excellent quality forestry road winding through the forest with ups and downs. Hobbies cyclists used to lakeside or urban bike paths will definitely find this section a great experience since they don't have to deal with any traffic or noise, only the rustling of trees. More sportive cyclists will find great training opportunities with climbs followed naturally by descents, while e-bike tourists can cycle both at a pace and effort level they find pleasant.

Occasionally, the magic of the forest is broken by built elements, such as the nearby Csikász Valley Bridge, the younger sibling of the Kőröshegyi valley bridge, under whose large pillars we pass. Not long after, we arrive at Tótokilak, an outlying part of Balatonendréd, where a few agricultural buildings and a covered cyclist rest stop with benches and tool kits await hikers. It is worthwhile to catch your breath before tackling the biggest climb of the route. Clear signs at the junctions help with orientation, so really all we need to do is enjoy this wonderful forest bike path.

After some sharp turns and a descent, we leave the forest and arrive at Jabapuszta, a one-street settlement belonging to Lulla. The route marking and signposting BalatonBringa365 partner operates a surprising specialty café and buffet a few tens of meters from our route, where cyclists receive distinguished attention.

Dirt road over the sandy ridge

Leaving “civilization” again, we now follow the 164A signs along the edge of a wide meadow beside the Jaba stream. Sign installations indicate that to the right, we can climb up Flora Hill on a mountain bike route (green D), where a geodetic tower stands. Although climbing the tower is forbidden and life-threatening, a nice view opens from beside it to the hills of Outer Somogy covered with forest.

A charming pond and rest place mark the location of our direction change, where we also change numbers and follow the 166A sign all the way to Balaton. Here the bike path winds with the hiking trail, so let's be careful when encountering walkers. Arriving at Ali-rét, an alpine atmosphere hunting lodge appears, with an artificial lake reflecting the white walls in front of it.

From here, the route leads for about 5 km on dirt road, sandy, sometimes unpleasantly rutted and uneven. It is not recommended to cycle here during and for a few days after rainy periods, as you have to climb up a hill on deep track where little sunlight penetrates. We rest a bit on a roughly level path, then reach the other side of the plateau with a technical descent. Soon we arrive at a spacious rest area built on the bank of Cinege stream, from where an educational trail around the Töreki lakes also starts. In the valley protected since 1994, along the pedestrian route, we can learn about wet habitats, various forests, and meadows, while passing a birdwatching tower and a bee-eater colony.

We continue cycling along the stream, occasionally with a narrow view of the dammed ponds. At Töreki, we reach the highway, which we approach with a 3 km glide to the shore of Lake Balaton, then join back to the cycle path at Balatonszéplak-alsó, belonging to Siófok. We continue towards Zamárdi, although the southern shore settlements have merged to such an extent that cycling on their endlessly long streets, it is hard to tell where you are. Whether you come here in summer or off-season, it is worth detouring to one of the many beaches, either for a swim after the long route or to enjoy the beautiful view. Returning to Szántód, we reach our starting point Balatonföldvár via the familiar road.