Sacred forests and Methuselah trees route in Gerecse

Itinerary

• From Tardos, start following the P+ trail towards Gorba-tető.
• On the mountain, switch from the P+ trail to the left-branching red chapel trail, which leads to the Panenka Maria Chapel, then continue until you return to the P+ trail.
• Turn left and follow the P+ trail across Gorba-tető.
• A short unmarked path on the southern side of the mountain leads out to the panoramic paragliding launch site.
• Follow the P+ trail across Gorba-nyereg, under Öreg-Kovács, through Gála forest westward, to the edge of the forest.
• At the border of Agostyán, turn left onto an unmarked path at the forest edge, which we follow to the Baj Szőlőhegy, where we meet the P+ trail again.
• Turn left onto the P+ trail on Szőlőhegy and follow it to the next hiking trail junction.
• At the edge of Szőlőhegy, at the junction after the bus stop, switch left to the S trail, which leads through Reim-hegy to the Kovácsi church ruins.
• From the Kovácsi church ruins, follow the P trail eastward (straight) along the side of Öreg-Kovács up to Gorba-nyereg.
• From Gorba-nyereg, follow the P◼ trail on asphalt all the way back to Tardos.

Detailed tour description

Starting from Tardos

Tardos, situated at the western foot of Nagy-Gerecse, is an excellent start and end point for a hike for many reasons, as the organized settlement offers everything for our comfort. It is worth starting from the Church square: begin following the P+ trail westward, in the clear direction toward Gorba-tető. You immediately start ascending, then at the end of Alkotmány Street, you climb up the mountain ridge covered with ancient forest. Methuselah trees theoretically await us there, but even along the ascent, you can notice a few older beeches which evoke the wilderness with their unusual shapes beyond their size.

Sacred forest at Gorba-tető

On the way up, to the left branches the red chapel trail, which leads to the small sanctuary of the Panenka Maria Chapel. According to tradition, in spring 1938 three children experienced a great brightness above a rotting tree while picking snowdrops here, and they saw the apparition of the Virgin Mary. Since then, the chapel standing on the spot has been a pilgrimage site, visited by hundreds annually. Nearby, a German soldiers’ grave recalls the events of World War II here.

The red chapel trail reconnects with the P+ trail now running along the ridge, where turning left we find ourselves in the grove of Gorba-tető. Among the scattered older forest fragments in Gerecse, this is the largest, about 65 hectares. In the middle of the summit lies a forest patch with an interesting “holey” shape: the Gorba Cave was cut out in a small part, and another ancient forest patch stretches on the steep hillside. Gorba-tető is a protected Natura 2000 area, where traditional logging is not allowed. Mainly turkey oaks and hornbeam-oak forests grow here, some over 160 years old, and along the path, old broad beeches can also be seen. (Source: László Gálhidy / WWF Hungary.)

The deadwood in the forest also shows the relative undisturbed state of the environment. Rotten trunks are key to maintaining forest health and biodiversity, as they provide many creatures with food and habitat, increase biodiversity, and supply nutrients to the soil.

View of Nagy-Gerecse

Our wide path comfortably leads across the plateau, and before descending on the southern side, it is worth a small detour to visit the mountain’s fabulous panorama site, which also serves as a paragliders’ launch site. From here, the mountain-valley basin of Tardos opens before us like a tabletop model, surrounded by arranged strips of arable land. We can see the central, highest block of the area, the elongated, towered hump of Nagy-Gerecse – where two more sacred forests can be found: the Bánya Hill and the Gerecse-side; on its western side, a huge landscape wound tells the tale of long-standing “red marble mining.” The well-worked red limestone quarried here decorates many buildings, including the Buda Castle.

On the descent, we also pass a smaller, now disused quarry before crossing the highway at Gorba-nyereg. Following this, our forest walk has another episode at the northern foot of 554 m high Öreg-Kovács. After passing the dry spring of Hideg-kút, we proceed through a shrubby clearing toward Agostyán, still following the P+ trail. The famous Agostyán Arboretum, where towering pines, cypresses, giant ferns, and horsetails await visitors, is not visited. It is not far in distance but requires a large detour in time – everyone should plan this on the 18-kilometer loop according to their own discretion and strength.

For a while, we walk through a monotonous tunnel of shrubby clearing, then soon wind into the scenic beech forest of Gála on our right. Twisting through the gray columns of tree trunks, meters fly by quickly, and finally, in oak forest, we reach the border of Agostyán and Baj. If you do not want to enter Agostyán, you can cut the P+ detour on a deep unmarked path and immediately continue south along the wine cellars of Baj, reconnecting with the regular P+ trail among the houses.

Along the vineyards of Baj

Following the trail, we pass the legendary old linden tree of Tojás Hill in Baj, more precisely its memorial site. The story goes that once a cart driver, drunkenly sitting on the driver’s seat, slipped off on the steep hillside and only thanks to the younger "brother" of the old linden standing here did not fall into the depths. The life-saving tree broke at the waist from the collision, but the driver, grateful to divine providence, erected a memorial column on the spot, hanging a framed image of Saint Christopher on it. Next to the old linden, you can still find a holy picture and a bench serving as a resting place for travelers.

We traverse the Baj Szőlőhegy across gardens and wine cellars, initially with views of the western end of Gerecse, Baj at the foothills, and the distant Tata. The trail leads along impressive sunken paths until we arrive at the old plane tree by the bus loop. Looking at the tree’s impressive size, it has been “watching” the traffic on Szőlőhegy for several hundred years.

Along the Calvary to Reim-hegy

Just steps from the picturesque old plane tree, we continue on the S trail past an Esterházy family building crucial to the local wine culture, the Kútház, then start climbing among old and beautifully renovated wine presses and residences. Now intertwined with the St. James Way, we approach Baj Calvary, then entering the steep gorge accompanied by stations. In the basin framed by Kecske and Reim hills, resembling wilderness, expect rocky terrain and fallen trees. At the saddle, the environment is much milder, but older trees can be noticed again.

In the old forest of Reim-hegy, gigantic beech specimens appear at first, but on closer inspection, other tree species are also present among the elders. The Natura 2000 site includes turkey oaks and downy oaks older than 150 years. Their trunk size and broad crowns often amaze visitors, but some inspired "tree giants" to create art, using their bark as message walls by carving into it.

Heading toward the mountain center, beech woods frame the Calvary for a stretch, then clear-cut areas, meadows, and legacy trees surround the wide cart path – this section also has its charm. On one clearing, a robust linden creates an idyllic sight, with a bench inviting observers to rest.

Around Öreg-Kovács

Finally, the S trail arrives at the ruins of the Árpád-era parish church of Kovácsi village, destroyed during the Turkish era, originally consecrated to Saint Peter. The approximately 800-year-old round church ruins and the surrounding area hidden in the shade of beeches today constitute a popular, easily accessible resting place with benches and tables providing a comfortable picnic opportunity.

From the S trail, we switch back to the P trail and again pass through wonderfully impressive beech forests heading east along the western side of Öreg-Kovács. The stand here already visibly shows signs of forest management. However, the wind forest still promises a peaceful, intimate walk before descending from the mountain and once again crossing Gorba-nyereg highway. From here, we tread about one and a half kilometers to the finish along the asphalt leading to Tardos, following the P◼ trail.

At the route's end, our forest-walk accustomed spirit may not desire such a busy closing chord, but at least at the village border the space opens around us again, and in the distance, we can once more scan the beautiful and tranquil surroundings, including the eye-catching Gorba-tető and the Nagy-Gerecse ridge, as well as the terminal station of Tardos.