From Miskolc above the valleys of Szinva and Garadna

Itinerary

• We hike along the P trail from Majális park to the Szeleta-tető junction, touching the Molnár Rock.
• To the left, we visit the Szeleta Cave following the PΩ signs.
• We stroll along the KΩ trail to the junction of the tourist path leading to the Zsófia viewpoint.
• Turning right, we climb to the Zsófia viewpoint on the K▲ trail.
• On the P▲ trail, we head to the summit level of Dolka Hill.
• Left on the P trail, we march to the Lencsés saddle.
• At the saddle, we turn right onto the Z sign and walk to the beginning of Forrás valley.
• We follow the P+ signs along the base of Forrás valley, passing the Upper Spring and then the Kecske Hole.
• At the King’s Well drip, we turn right and follow the signs of the heart-shaped PT educational trail.
• From the entrance of the pharmaceutical factory, the P+ signs will guide us.
• Upon reaching the Miskolc road, we return to Majális park on the already known P signs.

Route description

On the way to Molnár Rock

Our hike starts at the bus turnaround in Majális park on the western edge of Miskolc. Here you find the iconic Panda café where you can recharge with refreshments before setting out and after returning.

Following the P signs, we leave the asphalt and turn onto a path along the dam of the Szinva stream. This significant watercourse in Bükk nurtures an alder grove, in which willows and ash trees have grown. On our right lies the Herman Ottó Memorial Park which has seen better days. The former exhibition site, now heavily deteriorated, marks the Miskolc gateway of the Bükk National Park; its renovation is still awaited. For the next kilometers, our path runs alongside the Szinva environmental study trail, whose stations offer interesting facts about the area's wildlife, geography, and history.

Soon we arrive beside the road leading to Lillafüred and cross the tracks of the mahócai narrow-gauge railway. Here we cross the road and start ascending into the forest. We walk beneath oaks, passing remnants of the pine plantations established at the end of the 19th century by Albert Bedő, a prominent figure in Hungarian forestry. A peak in the Bükk is named after this forest master, which we soon cross. We climb higher above the Szinva and shortly turn left onto a rocky grassland. Below us, about 100 meters down, lies the valley of the creek, in which sit the houses of the former ironworks village Alsóhámor. On a stone, we notice a large wooden cross—the legendary crucifix of Molnár Rock. This tower-like protruding ridge is linked to several sad stories. The most famous from the 1932 Bükk guide says: "A wooden cross guards the site of a tragic love story. Beneath the rock in the Szinva valley is the Hámor mill. Legend has it the miller’s daughter fell in love with the miller’s apprentice. The young lovers could not be together due to the strict miller's cold-heartedness, so they chose death instead. They climbed up the rock and from where the cross stands, embracing one another, they threw themselves into the depths." Unfortunately, over the years, others have also jumped from here…

On the rock edge to Szeleta Cave

Continuing onward, another viewpoint opens from where we can see Molnár Rock from afar, with the cityscape of Miskolc and the city’s symbol, the Avasi lookout tower, in the background. Right opposite, one of the viaducts of the Lillafüred narrow-gauge railway emerges from the forest on the side of Puskaporos Hill. Upon reaching the summit of Bedő Albert Hill, another outlook opens, after which the panorama disappears for a while.

We descend to Dolka saddle and then, after a small ascent, turn onto the branching PΩ path. Along the edge of the Kis-fennsík here, multiple adjacent bowl-shaped depressions and dolines are found, formed by water dissolving the karstic rock. At the bottom of one is a chasm: the entrance of Szeleta pit cave. The pit is a vertical shaft cave; here the opening descends 102 meters deep into the mountain’s interior. Its natural sinkhole now only sometimes channels precipitation to the lower cave system; the springs feeding the Szinva bring it back to the surface as karst water. Such shaft caves are only traversable with special equipment and trained cavers.

A little further descent through a forest dotted with limestone rocks leads us to a directional sign on a tree trunk, which points, with a 40-meter detour, to King Matthias’s footprint. The name refers to a shoe sole–shaped depression dissolved in the limestone. Careful hands built a resting bench beside it, so we can sit and enjoy the magnificent viewpoint from the rock edge. Immediately attracting our gaze is the building of Palotaszálló, a mountain palace-castle style hotel erected at the meeting of Szinva and Garadna valleys. Opened in 1930 in a historicist style and surrounded by hanging gardens, it overlooks the houses of Felsőhámor at the foot of Saint Stephen Hill, fitting majestically into its surroundings.

Returning to the trail, after a few steps we reach a resting spot offering a view similar to the previous one. Descending via rock-carved stairs, we reach the large opening of Szeleta Cave. The cave entrance welcomes with a cool breath; inside awaits a huge hall with an 8-meter-high dome-shaped vault. Due to the size of the entrance, outside light penetrates deep inside, so lamps are only needed further in.

In the footsteps of ancient man

Szeleta, formed about 230 million years ago in Triassic limestone, impresses visitors not only with its size but also plays a significant role in paleontology and archaeology. The first excavation was led by Ottokár Kadić from Slavonia, who, beginning in 1906, uncovered numerous Ice Age animal bones and Paleolithic stone tools. Summarizing the results, it was established that the cave was a habitat of ancient man during the Pleistocene.

The initiator of Hungarian Paleolithic research is Herman Ottó, who in 1891 discovered tools during the foundation excavations of the Bársony house in Miskolc, which he identified as made and used by ancient humans. At the time, it was not widely accepted that Stone Age communities and cultures existed in the Carpathian Basin. Many domestic and European archaeologists doubted his announcement. His encouragement spurred research that ended the debate, as Kadić found more worked stone tools in Szeleta Cave. Following these findings, the Szeleta culture was named and distinguished, recognized in international literature. Over the following years, excavations in several Bükk caves produced further evidence of ancient human habitation and activities here. These pioneering studies confirmed the presence of Stone Age communities in Hungary. The last polymath Herman Ottó rests in the cemetery of Felsőhámor beneath us.

Adventurous way back to the plateau

We leave behind Szeleta Cave on the KΩ trail and descend back to the edge resting place, from where we continue west. From another point, a view unfolds where we can clearly see the waterfall next to Palotaszálló as well. When building the hotel, an artificial cascade was created on the Szinva. Flowing over formerly deposited travertine with a height of 20 meters, it is considered the largest in Hungary. After a short ascent, we trek downhill beneath young mixed forest trees, the hillside deeply furrowed by rills formed by runoff water flowing toward the valley.

Reaching a resting bench on the right, we turn onto the K▲ trail and ascend the steep hillside on a serpentine path to the renovated Zsófia viewpoint. This path was revived in the early 2020s after more than half a century of neglect. Due to a military signal receiver building at the hilltop, tourist traffic was banned under the communist regime, although in the first half of the 20th century, many people ascended the zigzagging path to the lookout built on the Dolka hill slope. In 2022 both the path and the viewpoint were renovated and reopened, making this long-favored local tourist destination accessible again. Occasionally, we pass old legacy trees that witnessed the noble visitors here.

Heading toward the summit, we soon reach a small clearing on the plateau edge where the historically restored tower of Zsófia viewpoint welcomes us. The original two-story tower was erected in 1900 by the Miskolc Bükk Association but became truly popular after Palotaszálló was built, visited by many resort guests during their stay. The structure was demolished in the 1950s and replaced by a military radio antenna connected to an air defense command post in the mountain and the mysterious Rock. From the tower’s top floor, we have superb views of the meeting of the Szinva and Garadna valleys, the surroundings of Palotaszálló, and the Hámori lake boat dock. Opposite, densely wooded hills rise nearly within arm’s reach up to the Bükk plateau, allowing a good panoramic sweep over the forests above Lillafüred and Hámori lake.

We climb a wide path to the top of Dolka hill where we join the P marked hiking trail. From the junction, with a short detour, we can visit the ruins of the military radio base where antennas once stood.

Ravaszlyuk, underground stream, and spring cave

Going left, we continue on a forestry road through the oak woods of Lencsés slope. Occasionally, we glimpse the deep hollow of Garadna valley hiding Hámori lake, and beyond that, the edge of the Nagy-fennsík. Our marking joins the ridge line and, walking through growing young beech forest, we reach the Lencsés saddle junction.

Turning right on the Z marking, we descend through a colonnade of gray trunks. After a few minutes, if we step left on an unmarked path, we can see two karst features. The Lilla cave opening in the rock is a now inactive sinkhole that has been sealed. This passage is only accessible with permission and is highly protected due to its special mineral deposits and stalactite formations. Slightly lower, we can study the still active Kaszás-réti backflow. It is an unusual sight as the winding stream suddenly disappears underground. Known in Bükk as backflow or "ravaszlyuk," this unique shape forms because its source emerges not from karstic rock but from elsewhere, so the valley forms, but once the stream reaches the limestone surface, it is swallowed at the rock boundary. Walking along the short stream, we find the water outlet that disappears at the end of the backflow valley. Most of this water reemerges at the next stop, the Upper spring.

Through splendid oak woods, we reach the junction of the P+ sign leading into Forrás valley, onto which we turn right. Before descending into the gorge, it is worth visiting the Upper spring cave on an unmarked path branching right. This 4-meter-high opening of the inactive spring cave surfaces in several places. These chimneys were once channels of the Kaszás-réti backflow sinkhole, but due to the mountain's elevation, erosion, and changes in the karst water level, it now discharges through the lower Upper spring. Because of the cave's size and openings, we can enter the passages carved by the torrential water even with basic hiking equipment. Stone tools and Ice Age animal bone remains were also found in this cave.

In the wilderness of Forrás valley

Over the next 3 km, we hike through a long, sometimes gorge-like valley of the Bükk plateau, passing several active springs and now inactive spring caves. Limestone formations rarely have long streams because water quickly seeps deep underground. However, where there are non-karstified rock blocks, valley formations exist. Here in Forrás valley, the stream has cut mainly into clay shale and marl, widening its gorge in places.

Descending a short but very steep stretch through beech forest, we reach the basin-shaped valley head of the Upper spring. The fenced spring house was built in the 1920s, leading the abundant water of the underground stream into Miskolc’s water network. Only a little water is let into the streambed through a pipe, increasing temporarily after snowmelt or heavy rains. At the overflow, we can refill our bottles.

Exiting to a small idyllic clearing, there is a fire pit and covered resting place where we can take a break.

We cross a small bridge over the mostly dry streambed, then wind on through dense gorge forest, following the valley floor’s curve. Stepaside giants and fallen or rotting trunks line the path; the cool, moist microclimate provides good habitat for maple, ash, linden, beech, and oak species. There is a significant accumulation of organic matter, with scattered deadwood slowly "merging" into the soil, sustaining the forest floor’s wildlife. During wet periods, spotted salamanders often appear, photogenic amphibians enjoying the deep Bükk valleys.

The wild ambiance intensifies as we reach a series of tufa formations. Most streams in Bükk carry tufa-depositing water, where dissolved lime precipitates and forms tufa steps with gurgling cascades and waterfalls. Freshwater limestone dams even envelop fallen branches and leaves. Unfortunately, due to water abstraction, these small cascades in Forrás valley can now only be seen occasionally.

We cross the streambed and are accompanied by a rock wall; then we reach the widening part of the valley where an open area awaits. The right-branching P● signs lead through the marshy, reed-covered meadow to the opposite alder grove, where we can detour to the occupied Flóra spring with a resting place.

On the other side of the clearing, we enter the forest again and continue on a forestry cart road.

After the widening, another narrowing valley section follows, where the right branching P◼, then PΩ signs lead to the inactive Büdös-pest spring cave, opening 42 meters above the valley floor. Besides its geological interest, it is an important site for archaeologists. Excavations from the early 20th century brought to the surface numerous Stone Age tools and bones of animals and human Neolithic remains.

Last cave and final spring: back to civilization

Descending further in the gorge, after the bend on the left we spot the triangular entrance of Kecske Hole. The spring cave opening beside our path occasionally operates, producing a small stream after snowmelt or heavy rains which flows into Forrás valley. From the large entrance chamber, a 460-meter-long passage rich in stalactite formations extends deep into the mountain, with important wildlife. Herman Ottó and Ottokár Kadić were among the first to study this cavity, from which Stone Age finds also surfaced.

After exploring the cave, we cross the lowest part of the gorge we have faithfully followed so far. The rock-covered slopes soon open up, and we find ourselves on the wide floodplain of the stream. To the right, the King’s Well spring enclosure and resting area invites a seat, a welcome break before the final section of our hike. The name of the karst water rise commemorates King Matthias, who may have seen the dripping source in its original state. In the 20th century, however, like at the Upper spring, water abstraction works were built here, too, enabling residents of Miskolc to enjoy fresh karst water right at home from their taps.

Leaving the outlet spring at the base of old trees, we continue along the heart-shaped red pictograms of the PT educational trail. This unique marked tourist path emphasizes the importance of the human blood circulation symbol and movement in nature, information about which is displayed on the informational board. We cross a meadow, then bridge the stream that has guided us since the valley head, and walk along a railing-protected path winding above the streambed.

We reach a spacious meadow from which we glimpse the buildings of the former Krypton Factory, now operating as a pharmaceutical plant. To our right, the hillside serves as a practice area for Miskolc youths, offering toboggan and ski slopes seasonally. At the meadow’s end, we step onto asphalt and, turning right at the factory gate to the P+ signs, enter Csanyik valley, named after a medieval settlement with a similar name.

We cross the mahócai narrow-gauge tracks again and, turning right before the parking lot, trudge to the Miskolc-Lillafüred road junction. Crossing it, we arrive back at Majális park along the P trail following the Szinva stream.