Börzsöny wilderness walk with Nagybörzsöny experiences

Itinerary

• From Nagybörzsöny, Hunyadi Square we follow the Börzsönyi Blue Trail K marking to the branching K◼ sign at the edge of the settlement.
• We climb up to Rustok Hill on the K◼ marking.
• On the K▲ marking, we take a detour to the hill's scenic viewpoint.
• We continue following the K◼ marking to the junction in the saddle.
• We turn right onto the K+ marking, which leads to Kereszt Valley.
• In Kereszt Valley we start following the K● marking to Fagyos Source (János Spring).
• From the spring we join the S◼ marking via a short section of the S● marking, turning right.
• On the way, we take a detour on an unmarked path to the Zálog-bérc viewpoint (marked on a tree to the left).
• Returning to the S◼ marking, we descend into Kollár Valley.
• In Kollár Valley, we switch to the S+ marked route, which leads down to Kisirtáspuszta.
• At Kisirtáspuszta, we join the S marking, which leads all the way back to Nagybörzsöny.

Detailed description of the hike

The starting point of our hike is Nagybörzsöny, located at the western foothills of the Börzsöny Mountains, a town once privileged due to its gold mines. The picturesque settlement’s history dates back to the founding of the state: King Saint Stephen himself gifted the village to the church, so it's no surprise that on its western edge a Romanesque-style church shining brightly was consecrated in his honor. The impressive building still hosts ceremonies today, and can be admired from the inside on request. Aside from the church and numerous sights, the narrow-gauge railway also offers a fantastic program, but before exploring or trying any of these, it is definitely worth taking a circular route showcasing the area.

Up to the panoramic Rustok Hill

Many hiking trails pass through Nagybörzsöny: we start on the Börzsönyi Blue Trail K marking, which also passes through the village center, then begin climbing at the branching K◼ marking into the hornbeam-oak forest of Tilalmas Wood. The wide dirt road used by forestry climbs up onto the long forested ridge of Rustok Hill. A short detour on the K▲ marking leads to the summit's fabulous viewpoint, offering one of the most beautiful panoramas in Börzsöny over the mountain-divided landscape, enclosed valley basins, and the expansive forest.

Rustok Hill mainly overlooks the steep cone of the neighboring Hegyes Hill summit and the deeply lying Kereszt Valley below us. However, the eye is drawn to the summits of Central Börzsöny on the left, seen farther away with steep valley walls reminiscent of the distant forested landscape of the Carpathians. Observant hikers may spot the Csóványos lookout, regarded as the crown of Börzsöny, near the Nagy-Hideg Hill massif; also, it's worth looking down because Rustok Hill's protected rocky grassland side hosts special plants. Be careful not to step on them!

Earthworks on the hill

Many Bronze Age sites and fortifications can be found on the heights of High Börzsöny. Rustok Hill is no exception: a settlement several hundred meters wide, once part of the Kyjatice culture (circa 1100–700 BCE), was protected by ramparts still visible today. Excavations in 1973 revealed that the settlement was surrounded by a wooden-beamed, compartmentalized, earth-filled defense structure destroyed by fire; its fill was burned red by the flames.

Comfortable walk through the mountain saddle

After enjoying the magnificent panorama of the 483-meter-high Rustok Hill, we return to the K◼ marking, which now proceeds without ascent along the forestry works towards the mountain range center. A long ridge once had a railway, traces of which are marked only on the map today. From the comfortable path, we turn steeply right down into the Kereszt Valley. The K+ and then K● markings lead to a great resting spot where the abundant Fagyos Spring (János Spring) wells up.

Camp idyll at Fagyos Spring

Next to the quiet environment enclosed in the valley gorge with the babbling Fagyos Spring once stood a cozy forest cabin with attic bivouac. At the site of the burned-down hut, only a sad emptiness remains, but the perfect spot for pitching tents still offers a fire pit, bench, and table. The cool spring water rarely dries up in summer. Although the hut’s absence cannot be compensated, the Fagyos Spring surrounded by beech-covered slopes is still an excellent resting place.

On the Zálog-bérc ridge meadow

From the spring, a short climb on the S● marking leads to the S◼ sign, where we turn right on its wide dirt road. We continue level, soon turning onto an unmarked path where on the left a tree trunk shows the Zálog-bérc inscription. With about a 2x10 minute detour, we reach a captivating, steep, partially barren, rocky, grassy ridge. The panoramic view over the closed forested valley stretches in one direction to Nagy-János Peak and Nagy-Inóc, and also waves long towards South Börzsöny. The origin of the name Zálog-bérc is linked to an event when a forest ranger caught a thief and took his axe and saw as a pledge to prove the theft.

We return to the S◼ marking, turn left, and follow the hiking trail further through the steep gorge covered with wind-beech, wedged between Száraz-fa-bérc and Zálog-bérc, accompanying the babbling stream to Kollár Valley. From here, we follow the S+ marking downhill to the Kisirtáspuszta basin.

Kisirtáspuszta and the narrow-gauge railway

Kisirtáspuszta's role has changed significantly over time. Few know that the center of the Nagybörzsöny narrow-gauge railway was for a long time not in the village but in Kisirtáspuszta. Where the current tourist accommodations stand was once a dispatcher office, heating house, and the car repair workshop from which several tracks branched out, including the engineering marvel Kammerhof line with two viaducts and 14 passing loops.

Of the Nagybörzsöny lines, the first built in 1908 connected to the Ipolypásztó railway station. Afterwards, the railway extended to Börzsönyirtás-puszta (now Kisirtáspuszta) with several branch lines running down the steep mountainsides. The operation of this network became impossible due to the Treaty of Trianon since transshipment at Ipolypásztó, which belonged to Czechoslovakia, was no longer available. The severed cord pushed engineers to design new solutions, including a steep side of Tolmács Hill and overcoming the steep Bezina Valley head with many curves to finally connect to the existing 760 mm track section between Szob and the Márianosztra quarry. This was completed by 1924, and ever since the Transbörzsöny narrow-gauge railway has been running on this route (with the restoration of the Bezina Valley track).

In the pleasant mountain basin, besides the narrow-gauge station and the country’s only remaining passing loop, three tourist accommodations are available (all requiring prior booking). Here you are guaranteed to rest without mobile signal; the silence of the forest and the trails starting here promise an excellent hiking vacation.

From Kisirtáspuszta, we can return to Nagybörzsöny even by the weekend-running narrow-gauge railway. If we continue on foot, we follow the S marking along the railway track and stream into the forest of Hosszú Valley. It is basically a comfortable walk on a wide, not too steep dirt road, but heavy rains can make crossing the swollen dry creek difficult. For most of the year, the creek crossing the path changes course several times, gently babbling and adding charm to the hike rather than being a frustrating obstacle.

Points of interest in Nagybörzsöny

Passing a youth camp and then the narrow-gauge railway’s reception building, we reach Nagybörzsöny. Few steps further along the S marking, past neat homesteads, we arrive in the village center. Beyond the beautiful surroundings, many landmarks proclaim Nagybörzsöny’s uniqueness. Historic, homely houses, the water mill and folk house, the miners’ church and fish pond, and the narrow-gauge railway — all are unique treasures to the village, which is gaining growing popularity. Since the second half of the 2010s, increasing numbers of restaurants have begun operating in Nagybörzsöny, making local flavors a significant attraction. At the end of our circular route, it’s up to us how we enrich our excursion with Nagybörzsöny experiences.