In the footsteps of the geowonders of the Medves region

Itinerary:

• We start from Salgótarján long-distance bus station. We cross the main road, the Rákóczi road (route 21), which we follow northwards.
• Crossing the tracks, we immediately turn right onto Acélgyári road (here we also follow the S marker).
• The S marker turns right onto Dózsa György road, uphill towards the Szojka Ferenc stadium.
• Before the stadium, the S marker turns right onto a forest service road.
• After the Dolinka Recreation Park, the S marker (Miner's Circuit) enters the forest, where we ascend all the way to Pécs-kő (543 m), which can be climbed via a small detour (S▲ and P▲).
• Returning to the S marker, we descend to the Pécs-kő saddle, where we turn left onto the K marker (Blue Kohász).
• Passing through the former mining settlement of Inászó, we descend to the road between Mátraszele and Zagyvaróna, where we turn right - carefully - and proceed a few hundred meters, then turn left into Kápolna valley on the K marker.
• At the top of the ascent, the well-known S marker (Miner's Circuit) joins, on which we turn left and follow all the way to Szilvás-kő, where numerous small detours allow us to admire this special mountain's sights.
• The S+ marker leads up to Szilvás-kő. Turning right at the Czech soldiers' graves, we can admire the basalt formations of nearby Kis-Szilvás-kő (616 m) on the S▲ marker, then after returning to the graves, continuing on the S+ and S▲ markers leads us to the top of Szilvás-kő (625 m), primarily worth climbing for the special basalt fissures.
• The summit is crossed by the S▲, but it is only worth going to the viewpoint, then descending a few steps back from the fissures, we turn left onto the S+ marker, which leads us to another attraction of the mountain, the impressive basalt columns.
• Continuing to follow the S+ marker, we touch the impressive Bagó-kő mine and finally descend to Rónabánya.
• Crossing the road, we set off on the S marker towards the Medves Plateau, which runs along the eastern side for a long section, still in the forest.
• Finally reaching the plateau, at the intersection, we turn right on the Z marker and follow it all the way to Somoskő, and then to Somoskő castle within it.
• Walking back on the Z marker to the village-edge Bakancsos Buffet, we follow the P+ marker, which leads us through Eresztvény.
• We cross the main road and continue on the opposite asphalt road, soon turning right onto the P marker.
• Following the former railway track on the P marker, we reach its still-standing and impressive tunnel, the Duna tunnel.
• Passing through it, we turn left on the S marker, then shortly after turn right onto the S+ marker.
• After a few hundred meters, we turn left on the Z marker (Medves Green), which leads us to Salgóbánya, the end of our route, but before that from the Salgó pass, we first climb to Salgó castle (623 m) via the PL and P▲ markers (left) with a small detour, or in the other direction from the pass on the PL marker to Kis-Salgó (572 m).
• Returning to the pass, we finish the route on the Z marker at the House of Geowonders in Salgóbánya.

Detailed tour description:

Conquering Pécs-kő

Our short walk in Salgótarján (during which from once a very modern city center we quickly reach the houses evoking the genuine miner-town atmosphere on Acélgyári road, then following the S marker we are two steps inside the forest) shows that this city should not be underestimated: it is worth returning here after the tour. Leaving Dolinka Recreation Park, the path (S marker) finally leads into the mostly mixed forest, heavily disturbed by past mining activities. After the climb, we leave the P▲ marker leading to Hurka-Pécskő and soon reach the short branch leading to Pécs-kő (S▲ - P▲). A steep and slippery rock and boulder “staircase” carved into the rock, secured by a climber’s rope railing, leads to the summit. Peak climbing is not recommended for those afraid of heights, but definitely worthwhile due to the stunning views. From this viewpoint, one of the best panoramas in the area can be seen, overlooking distant mountains and the city climbing up from the valleys below.

Pécs-kő (543 m) is a perfect example of how erosion and human intervention revealed the area's unique geological past. The volcano first erupted 2-3 million years ago, depositing debris: the summit consists of volcanic bombs, lava fragments, and scoria basalt tuff. During the second eruption, the formed crater was broken by lava basalt, from which molten lava continued flowing in multiple directions. One fissure filling rose due to tectonic movements, now known as Hurka-Pécskő. The summit's scoria and debris rocks are unsuitable for building, but the black, dense basalt (lava rock) breaking through this soft layer in the second phase is suitable. The mountain's proximity to the city also likely played a role in the intensive mining. Before the 1930s, five major mines extracted paving stones here, supported by cableways, narrow-gauge railways, and inclines for transporting materials. The mining peak was the 1923 demolition and extraction of the unique-shaped prominence called Hurka-Pécskő. At that time, the stairway carved into the rock leading to Pécs-kő was also built, offering a rare climbing experience in Hungary. The small detour also passes a former mining yard; exploring well helps understand the landscape's developmental history.

Inászó, the lost settlement and the secluded geowonders of Szilvás-kő

On the S marker descending to the Pécs-kő saddle, we turn left onto the K marker, which leads to the symbolic site of the vanished settlement of Inászó. It is hard to believe in the quiet meadow that once stood a market town here, destroyed during the Hussite wars but repopulated after discovering good quality coal deposits leading to coal mining beginning in the 19th century around Salgótarján (the country's third coal mine). A significant mining settlement formed, with over two thousand inhabitants, a school, and even a hospital. The shaft operated between 1888-1909, producing 3 million tons of coal. Although mining ended early, the last residents moved out in the 1970s. Now only a cemetery and memorial, hidden from the tourist path, testify to the past. The Salgótarján Dornyay Béla Museum reveals more interesting details about this initially gray but still defining period - making it worthwhile to explore more around the county seat.

The K marker descends on a forest concrete road to the road between Mátraszele and Zagyvaróna, where we turn right - carefully! - and walk a few hundred meters before the K turns left into the forest. After a significant climb, we turn left at the hilltop onto the S marker. After some time, the wild environment of Kőris-tanya appears; we enter the mountain farms below Szilvás-kő. Opposite, the mined side of Bél-kő in the Bükk mountains almost lights up. From the dozer road leading to the farms, the S marker soon turns left towards the summit, but the double summit is reached by the S+ marker. Right from the Czech soldiers' World War I graves, the S▲ leads to Kis-Szilvás-kő, left (S+ and S▲ markers) to Szilvás-kő, featuring impressive volcanic formations. A nature trail circles Szilvás-kő from the direction of Rónabánya.

Szilvás-kő formed during basalt volcanic activity similar to Salgó fissure volcano. The first stage was characterized by intense explosive pyroclastic eruptions (layers seen in fissures on the summit), while in the second stage basalt lava flows began from Szilvás-kő crater and smaller related (so-called parasitic) craters (Bagó-kő). What we see today on the wilderness-covered peak is essentially a negative imprint: softer volcanic debris and other sedimentary rocks eroded over time due to external forces, whereas the hard basalt cap remains largely intact. The current ridge consists of hard volcanic conduit fillings, with impressive columnar basalt on Szilvás-kő's eastern side. The mountain's biggest sensations are the volcanic fissures and consequence caves formed within, which—whether believed or not—resulted from human intervention. Under the basalt-covered ridge of Szilvás-kő stretched a nearly 5-meter-thick coal seam, most of which was mined between 1912-1919. As a result of mining and collapsing mine workings, cracks formed in the rock above the tunnels, along which layers slipped, creating wide fissures entering the summit level, narrowing as consequence caves. Over ten such rare cave passages have been discovered here.

The summit is crossed by the S▲ marker but is only worth visiting up to the viewpoint. Then, descending a few steps back from the fissures, we turn left onto the S+ marker, leading to other mountain attractions: the spectacular basalt columns. As elsewhere in the region (Somoskő, Szárkő), the quarry on the mountain's eastern side demonstrates hardened rock trapped in the former volcanic conduit. The low-silica, fluid basalt lavas are characterized by columnar jointing. These columns form due to contraction stresses during magma cooling, usually pentagonal or hexagonal in cross-section and often perfectly regular. Basalt columns are also well studied at the Bagó-kő basalt mine, reachable along the S+ marker.

Crossing the Medves plateau

At Rónabánya, crossing the road, we start on the S marker towards the Medves Plateau. The hiking trail runs for a long stretch on its eastern side, still in the forest. In return, fantastic views open up to the Slovakian mountains and the Medvesalja settlements below. The marked Hideg-kút spring beside the path has strongly iron-rich water to quench our thirst before we reach the plateau, after which we follow the Z marker from the intersection to Somoskő castle. Here it becomes clear we are hiking Europe's largest basalt plateau: meadows ripple around us, and the horizon meets the sky. The Medves Plateau, formed by several lava flows, lies at 520-570 meters above sea level, so it is unsurprising that only surrounding higher mountains, chiefly Salgó, nearby Karancs, and the Medves peak (671 m, plateau's highest point, main lava source) interfere with the horizon. The volcanic blanket thickness ranges from 11-107 m and covers 12.8 square km, of which 7.8 km2 lies in Hungary. The plateau extends on the Slovak side up to Abroncsos (Obručná). Walking on the now abandoned layers, it is hard to imagine how many mines on the table mountain's edge, especially the western side, produced cobblestones, interrupted only by narrow-gauge train and incline noise. Leaving former Medvespuszta ruins, we approach Somoskő, with spectacular views. The Z marker follows an old narrow-gauge railway route on an ancient stony road, then winds down towards Somoskő, reaching the very atmospheric Bakancsos buffet.

From Somoskő to Salgó Castle through a tunnel

Perhaps Nógrád county's most beautiful castle, Somoskő is built on a volcanic vent revealed by erosion at the surface: it is truly special how the softer surrounding rock has worn away, exposing lava once pushed into the rock and trapped inside the vent. It is also notable that such a beautiful castle was built on this natural fortress's summit. Be sure to visit the world-renowned basalt columns behind the castle. Returning to Bakancsos buffet, the P+ marker leads through the beautiful and meaningful-named Eresztvény, the gateway to the Medves Plateau. Here we find a modern visitor center and playground—worth a look and a rest! On the far side of the road, we continue on a forest concrete road to the Dornyay hostel ruins, then turn right onto the P marker, following the old stone transport narrow-gauge railway to Dunelig, a nationally significant industrial heritage site.

The history of Medves industrial narrow-gauge railway is complex. Originally built for coal, it was rebuilt in 1910 for basalt transport. It carried stone from the mines at Eresztvény, Somoskő, and Macskalyuk to Somoskőújfalu, where it was transferred to a normal gauge train. There was a traction yard at Eresztvény, connected to the former incline track. From Eresztvény to Somoskőújfalu, the track ran along today’s P marker. Although the former viaduct no longer exists, the tunnel section still stands, traversed by the tourist trail (so it's good to have a flashlight).

Crossing the tunnel, we turn left on the S marker, then shortly right on the S+ marker. After a few hundred meters, we turn left on the Z marker (Medves Green), which leads to Salgóbánya, the tour's endpoint. Before that, from the Salgó pass, we detour briefly up to Salgó Castle (623 m) and Kis-Salgó (572 m) via the PL and P▲ markers.

In the Middle Ages, an important trade route ran along the Zagyva valley separating Karancs and Medves, protected by Salgó castle, which—similarly to Somoskő castle—fared well against the ravages of time in Hungary. Besides the exceptional panorama and basalt formations, we may even find the horseshoe print of Petőfi's horse on a rock! Kis-Salgó, also called Boszorkánykő (Witch's Stone), is interesting due to the oblique basalt strata and offers marvelous views. It is an ideal location for a pilgrimage, likely temporary, as those who discover the Karancs-Medves region's beauty quickly want to return.

We finish the tour in Salgóbánya, the region's iconic settlement, easily reached from the Salgó pass. Salgóbánya was a center of brown coal mining in the area; the former miner's casino hints at this rich mining past. It is also home to the Novohrad-Nógrád Geopark's House of Geowonders visitor center, where a thorough exploration is highly recommended. This center also commemorates the locally born actor Zenthe Ferenc.