Säuleck via ferrata D-E

Approach:
From the Arthur-von-Schmid-Haus northwards towards Säuleck, steeply uphill over a slope (initially block terrain, observe markings!), then over beautiful terraces with embedded small ponds up to below a prominent rock band. Diagonally left over a ramp higher to the junction to the via ferrata, about 2600 m, signpost. Following red dots and cairns to the left, initially flat, then briefly through steep scree to the start sign at the beginning of a steep, narrow slab ramp, 2680 m. 1 ½ hrs.

Via ferrata:

With more or less skillful friction stepping technique, possibly complicated by wet rock, to the end of the steep ramp (D). Left out onto a much larger ramp, cross this (scree, red markings, no protections) and higher along its left edge. Then left over a steep little wall and to a diverging crack (steel cable helps little, climbing grade 3). It continues repeatedly over smooth and powerful steep ascents. Then a very airy traverse with a tough finale (D-E). The terrain gradually becomes more ridge-like and somewhat easier (C-D) and the view improves progressively. After short unsecured sections, you reach the via ferrata logbook. Initially a bit easier again, then over a ridge out to the west ridge, 2990 m. 1 ¾ hrs.

Over the maximally exposed ridge teeth (mostly B-C, sections up to C-D) towards the summit cross. As close as the cross may seem, the transition with its ups and downs stretches out until finally the cross and shortly thereafter the highest point are reached. ¾ hr.

Descent:

Initially southwards over block terrain, then into a hollow (mostly old snow) to the junction to the Mallnitzer Scharte. On trail no. 534, right curve under a rock ridge and back to the junction to the via ferrata. 1 hr.

Continue as on the approach back to the Arthur-von-Schmid-Haus, ¾ hr.

> Alternative descent from Säuleck over the block glacier here.