To the Stones of the Kis-fennsík from Mályinka through the Gorges

Itinerary

• From Mályinka, we climb towards the Maria Spring along the K+ markings in the Csondró Valley.
• Turning left at the S marking, we ascend to the junction below Örvény-kő.
• We visit the rock of Örvény-kő along the S▲ path and then return the same way.
• Following the S+ markings, we stroll to the fork at Arany Steps.
• Keeping right along the P markings, we walk to the turnoff for Köpüs Spring.
• At the P● marking, we turn to the resting place of Köpüs Spring and then return the same way.
• We migrate towards Szentlélek along the P markings.
• Along the K+ path, passing the Látó-kövek, we walk back to the Maria Spring.
• We descend along the S path to the entrance of Vár Valley.
• We return to Mályinka along the K markings.
• We reach the starting point of the route via the K+ markings.

Route Description

Mályinka

Stone age tools have been found at the border of Mályinka, established in the Árpád era, indicating that the northern slopes of the Bükk have long attracted settlers. Fortifications were built in the Bronze and Iron Ages along the boundary between Bükkhát and Északi-Bükk, and in the 13th century, the Dédes fortress was constructed, which included Mályinka in its possession. During the Turkish era, the reduced population was supplemented with Slovaks from Gömör, who assimilated after several generations. For many inhabitants, the forest provided their livelihood; they engaged in wood and charcoal burning and excelled in viticulture and fruit growing (mainly apples and plums). The local pálinka remains famous today. The villagers converted early to Protestantism; the most valuable monument is the Reformed Church and the adjacent wooden bell tower. The latter has national significance as it was built without metal nails at the end of the 18th century.

Introduction to the Csondró Valley

We leave the bus turnaround and village, our starting point, following the K+ markings. We ascend towards the forest; looking back, we get a good view of the surroundings of Mályinka. Entering the woods, we continue in the protected area of the Bükk National Park, in a grove mixed with black pine. Turning at the slope of Kemesnye Hill, the valley of the Csondró creek appears beneath our path; from here, we follow it to its source. The gray-silver trunks of the beech trees dominate as we proceed, and suddenly we stand at the gorge's entrance.

The narrow valley opening ahead is one of Bükk’s natural gates for millennia, through which ancestors could enter the core of the mountain range. Similar passes were mostly developed and widened over time—see for example the narrow gorge of the Szinva, Hór, and Barát valleys—or augmented from the 20th century with roads winding in the hillsides alongside the conventional creek valley routes.

In the Csondró Valley, nature still rules today, allowing us to roughly experience what traveling to the inner parts of the Bükk was like in old times. The gorge and its wider surroundings are strictly protected — human interventions are minimized — therefore, due to climate change, increasingly frequent violent lightning floods sometimes render the path difficult to pass. Fallen trees and the transformative work of water can make the already adventurous crossing even more exciting. After more significant treefalls, forest management clears the path again.

The long, winding gorges of Északi-Bükk are characterized by a cooler microclimate. Closed and deep valleys get little sunlight, warm up slowly, and snow remains longer. Special flora can be found in the less disturbed canyons. Relict associations are typical in several valleys; species such as mountain chervil, woodland violet, mountain aster, or white helleborine also flourish here. The moist, humid environment is vital for mosses, fungi, and ferns. The tree stand is enriched by maple, ash, elm, and lime alongside beech. Several protected snail species and the striking spotted salamander also inhabit the Csondró narrow stretches. This brightly dressed amphibian occurs throughout most of the mountain range, with its most significant populations in the valleys of Északi-Bükk. Individuals emerging from larvae leave the water at 4-5 months and transition to terrestrial life forms. By this time, their very photogenic, distinctive yellowish or orange-red camouflage colors appear, helping them blend well in the wet leaf litter. They primarily live nocturnal lives but may venture into the forest floor even during daytime in gloomy, rainy weather. The salamander, also known as “tűzgyík” or “targyík” in Székely Land, was formerly associated with many beliefs unfavorable to it. One said its cold, wet skin was fireproof, leading to some specimens being thrown into flames as tests, and alchemists also experimented with it. Today, the salamander is protected: when encountered during hikes, do not disturb it, especially do not touch it, as its skin secretions irritate human mucous membranes.

Through the Gorge to the Spring

Entering the valley, the environment closes in, and we begin to ascend parallel to the streambed. Even at this lower section, we notice the dense ground vegetation and the multitude of fallen trees and branches brought down by water, which intensify further upwards. The steep slopes are dotted with fallen trunks and rock outcrops.

Our path narrows to the murmuring creek as we arrive under the huge wall of Odvas-kő. Here, it is possible to take a detour on an unmarked path branching left to the Odvas-kő cave lodge and further up to the cliff viewpoint, from which the valley and its surroundings can be seen from above.

A few dozen steps further, we can rest and sip water at the Ámor Spring enclosure. The wildest section of the valley starts here. Under an overhanging, undercut rock wall, we are forced into the streambed (particularly thrilling when water levels are high), then crossing debris trees and fallen trunks, we continue along the hillside. Underneath, waterfalls and small cascades alternate on the creek. The Csondró is a so-called travertine-depositing water: the karst-area creek occasionally precipitates dissolved lime content, forming travertine steps on which miniature waterfalls cascade.

After cutting through the rocky gorge, we tread on a wider valley part, crossing multiple times the gentler aspect of the gorge. Through beautiful old-growth beech forests, we reach the narrowing by the limestone cliffs of Cakó-kő. Heading in the direction of the K+ markings above the creek, we move towards the source, the Maria Spring. Near the Kelemen forester’s lodge, one of the mountain range's richly flowing drips originates; it is replenished from the plateau above. According to tradition, this and the nearby Silvia and Ágnes Springs were named after a forester’s three daughters. At the rest stop equipped with benches and tables, we can gather strength for the onward journey.

Path of the Ironworkers

Our current route is part of a long-distance hike, the Path of the Ironworkers. The name dates from when Northern Hungary was the industrial bastion of the country. This has radically changed as the old iron and steel factories have closed. When they were all operational, the idea arose to establish a hiking movement to familiarize visitors with the ironworking towns and the natural attractions along the way. Thus, a 130 km route was created linking the region’s largest industrial centers (Miskolc, Ózd, Salgótarján). As a tribute to the beginnings of iron production in Borsod, the path also connects Lower and Upper Hámor and the ancient furnace of Újmassa. The route is still available today, which can be traveled independently or within organized conditions, commemorating the region’s over 250-year ironworking past.

“The nobles call that peak ‘Pagan Altar,’ the peasants call it Örvény-kő.” (Mór Jókai)

Leaving Maria Spring on the S marking, we hike on ascending terrain to the fork below Örvény-kő, reaching the edge of the Bükk Plateau. The remaining section to the summit is along the S▲ trail, winding among old beech trees and rock outcrops. After a few minutes' walk, we spot the snow-white limestone rock. Here, on a well-trodden but unmarked side path, we can make a detour to examine the wall favored by climbers from below. Örvény-kő is one of the northern escarpments of the Kis-fennsík, with a grooved, devil-plough-shaped crest. The growing forest limits the view from the summit, but still, we can enjoy a prime panorama to the north. We see the Uppony Mountains, the sparkling Lázbérci Reservoir waters at its foot, and beyond that, the valley of Sajó. The view is framed by the high ranges of the Northwestern Carpathians.

At the summit, a stone obelisk commemorates Mór Jókai, who hid in the mountain foothills of Tardona after the suppression of the 1849 War of Independence. The writer frequently roamed the surrounding mountains and visited Örvény-kő several times. Later, he stated that from here, the view opens to eight counties: “This was usually the goal of my wanderings. Half a day there, half a day back, building a fire at noon from brushwood on the rock ledge, feasting royally with toasted bread and bacon, then sitting on the dizzying rock shelf, struggling with the impossible (for me, impossible) painterly task. Beneath my feet, in the foreground, the darkness formed from the crowns of the beeches, and where that ends, a smiling nook, in the middle the little village of Tardona with smoking chimneys and scattered cottages, surrounded by yellowing vineyard plots, streaks of green crops, and hills, above which smoky-green mountains of the Bükk arise, beyond them the group of Gömör mountains stretching out; their shadows turn purplish, but also dominated by the chain of the Trencsén, Turóc mountains; that is sky-blue and rises above like a fata morgana, the majestic line of the Spis Carpathians...”

Let's sit down a bit, listen to nature, admire the landscape!

The Call of Szentlélek

Bidding farewell to the view, we return on the S▲ markings to the fork, and from here, we follow the S+ markings for a while. We cross the Miskolc highway and descend to the valley crossing called Arany Steps. Turning right to the P marking, we take the contour trail on the side of Köpüs Hill. Walking through beautiful beech forests, we approach the fork leading to the spring under the summit along the P● marking, then turn left to visit Köpüs Spring, where we find a rain shelter and fireplace. The artistic spring enclosure and the rest area were built thanks to the MVSC nature hikers. The resting place's name (Kiszela rest) recalls one of their members. We can sit on the benches in the small clearing and refill our flasks with fresh karst water.

Returning to the P markings, we continue through a pine forest towards Szentlélek. Reaching the edge of Nyírjes Meadow, the landscape suddenly opens. The clearing was formerly the garden of the Szentlélek monastery; nearby, the monks also dammed a fishpond. Today, two old, decaying buildings attract our attention.

After circumventing the meadow, we arrive in Szentlélek. The most important landmark of this beautifully situated mountain resort is the ruins of the medieval Pauline monastery. The order received the area in 1313, but hermits and their monastery here are mentioned even in the previous century. After a long period of operation, the small cloister was deserted by the early Turkish era and started to decay. Since it was built away from settlements, its stones were not scattered, so significant parts remain today. It is worth walking under the Gothic walls and imagining what life was like for the monks who lived removed from the world in the then truly wild forest.

Szentlélek became a hub early in the tourism phase. The first tourist route from Diósgyőr led here, and in 1932 a hostel was built, later named after the polymath Ottó Herman. The building now operates as the Szentlélek Inn guesthouse. Its restaurant is periodically available to hikers.

Near the Látó-kövek

From the resort, we go uphill on the K+ marking along a paved road, switch to a path at the sharp left turn. Crossing the Bánkút asphalt road, we enter the woods again past two entwined beech trees and descend to the Látó-kövek at the plateau edge. Climbing onto the rocky peak, we enjoy a magnificent view. Below us are the foothill villages and the hills of the Uppony Mountains, with the Lázbérci Reservoir visible. The deep incision of the Csondró Valley can be clearly seen below the rock peaks of Odvas and Kemesnye. Beyond the Sajó valley rises the Gömör-Torna karst, and to the horizon rolls the wave-like mountain range of the Carpathians. In clear weather, the jagged ridge of the High Tatras is also visible.

We arrive back at the previously visited fork below Örvény-kő via beautiful beech forest, then shortly find ourselves again at Maria Spring. Changing to the S marking, we leave the two former forestry lodges and continue comfortably on a cart track along Csikorgó Meadow. Looking back, we can see the previously visited rock of Látó-kövek; opposite rises Kerek Hill. Crossing the asphalt road of Mályinka (where a right fork leads onto the S▲ marking to the Kemesnye-kő viewpoint), our path starts a steep descent on the opposite side. In the hillside, blown-over trees and larger branches are avoided as we proceed.

Descending the Baróc Creek Gorge

We soon reach the valley head and turn into the increasingly deep Recem Valley. Below us, the Baróc Creek babbles in an idyllic environment; for a good stretch, we walk along the watercourse. In one section, we pass through another fallen forest area — dense underbrush complicates progress alongside the tree trunks. Cutting through the hospitable area, we continue directly beside the creek on a forestry transport road. We pass the base of the limestone rock Mártus-kő, which extends above the trees, then arrive at the entrance of Vár Valley. From the junction, the branching K● markings lead to the nearby Vár Spring to refill our flasks.

We switch to the K marking in the valley, named for this section after the castle of Dédes. The ruins of an ancient mountain eagle's nest are found on the peak towering above us. Our path winds around the wall of Pirító-kő, which acts as a bastion obstacle. Here we can step onto the creek bank to admire in full splendor the sizable rock formation carved by decay.

Shortly, we bid the watercourse farewell since we ascend above the valley floor walking along the gorge side. Reaching a pine patch mixed in a beech forest, we can take a detour on an unmarked path branching left to the Szőlő-kő viewpoint. From the side of Sasbérc, we can look at the Dédes Castle Mountains and the Baróc Creek Gorge.

Following the markings, which continue parallel to the Mályinka main road, we soon step onto solid pavement. From the next bend, we see the wooden tower of the Begyeleg lookout built over Mályinka village. Climbing to the top, a panorama opens over the village surroundings and the elevations of the Uppony Mountains, while the horizon is lined with the long range of the Gömör-Szepesi ore mountains.

Following the K markings, we descend to the edge of Mályinka. We pass the pond dammed by the trout farm, then enter the village center through the streets, where we can wash the dust off the path in the classic presszó combined with a mixed shop. The K+ markings lead back to the bus stop.