Nógrád – Katalinpuszta (Day 38 of the OKT Hike)

If you arrive in Nógrád by train, you’ll get off right by a romantic lake. It’s worth taking a stroll around this small pond—dammed up by the waters of the Morgó Stream—even if you’re not participating in the race; it’s a truly charming spot, and the well-maintained, tasteful surroundings offer an inviting view of the Nógrád castle ruins.

You can visit the castle with a detour of about half an hour by following the KL trail markers. Construction of its first version began as early as the 11th century atop the 286-meter-high andesite cone, but the old tower and sections of the wall still visible today were built in the 15th century. The castle, which gave its name to the county, did not enjoy its glory for long: in 1685, lightning struck the gunpowder stored in the courtyard, and the fortress was destroyed. It was partially restored in 1997, and today visitors can explore the open areas of the site free of charge (the area around the old tower is closed off): you can walk out onto the ramparts and up to the observation deck of the northern bastion. The castle is of historical significance, but most hikers visit it primarily as a scenic overlook, as it offers an exceptionally beautiful and rare view of the Magas-Börzsöny range in one direction and the Naszály range in the other. On a clear day, the ridges of the Cserhát and the Mátra are also visible.

The first stamp on our Blue Trail is located on a sign in the parking lot of the Nógrád train station. After stamping our cards, we head west toward the retro, railroad crossing with a retro barrier, then, after crossing the tracks, we can take another short detour by following the “K” markers along Vasút sor to the Nature Conservationists’ Spring, which was claimed in 1985. The Csurgó Spring also flows right next to it, so you’ll likely be able to fill up on fresh water for the journey.

However, it’s time to get back on track for today’s section. At the railroad crossing, follow the K trail markers along Kossuth Street in a southwesterly direction. Leaving Nógrád behind, after the bridge over the Fekete Creek, the Blue Trail turns sharply to the left, where we’ll walk past a pálinka distillery and a couple of farmsteads before reaching a beautiful field after a short climb of a few meters. It’s worth looking back from here, as there’s a beautiful view of Nógrád, especially the castle.

A short forest section follows, where our trail leads over a small hill, adding a total of 50 meters of elevation gain to the hike. On the steep southern slope of the hill, we descend into the valley of the Morgó Stream. An idyllic strip of pasture runs alongside the stream for quite a distance, and the railroad tracks also wind through this area. After carefully crossing the tracks, we arrive at the foot of Nagy-Kő Hill, where we can tackle the only major climb of this section. On the mountain’s shady northern slope, in a dense oak forest, we find ourselves gasping for breath on the short but steep incline; our efforts come to an end at the saddle of Kis-Kő-hegy, where the terrain levels out. We are halfway between the summits of Kis-Kő-hegy and Nagy-Kő-hegy; the Blue Trail continues toward the latter (the elevation difference between the two summits is only 6 m, by the way).

The trail, which is still ascending, soon reaches the 383-meter-high summit of Nagy-Kő-hegy, where the Blue Trail passes by the Lokó rest area. We should make this brief detour for two reasons: first, the next OKT stamp station is located in the tent-roofed rain shelter at the rest area; second, the most beautiful view of the hike opens up from here.

A trail marked K▲, just a few meters long, leads from the Blue Trail to the rest area, but there is also another, unmarked trail that we can follow. From the Lokó rest area, a breathtaking view unfolds before us: a 150-meter-deep chasm yawns beneath the steeply dropping Nagy-Kő-hegy. To the right, we can make out the peaks of the Magas-Börzsöny, and the lookout tower on the summit of Csóványos is clearly visible. Following the Börzsöny mountain range westward, the Danube Bend comes into view with the Danube and Visegrád, while below us, closer by, the hills of the Szokolyai Basin undulate. To the southwest, the Visegrád Mountains, the Pilis, and the Gerecse Mountains come into view.

The uniquely shaped rain shelter was built in 2009; beneath it, we find benches and a table, though the weathered roof structure no longer provides complete protection from the rain. The rain shelter is adorned with several commemorative plaques honoring notable members of the Lokomotív Tourist Association, including Dr. László Vizkelety—known as one of the visionaries behind the National Blue Trail. The section leading toward Magyarkút has been named “László Vizkelety Trail” in his honor.

Lokó Rest Area – Magyarkút

Continuing toward Magyarkút, we find another lookout point on the edge of the mountain, which can be reached via a short, unmarked trail. This is perhaps one of the most spectacular viewpoints on the Börzsöny Ridge; the panorama is similar to that at the Lokó Rest Area, only even more expansive, and below us, a chorus of insects rises from the steep, highly biodiverse grasslands. The viewpoint is also a memorial site: in the vicinity, we find two wooden headstones, a wooden cross, and several painted pebbles, each commemorating a hiker.

Over the next 3.5 kilometers, we begin a gradual descent toward Magyarkút. Following the dusty, rocky forest trails requires some caution; it’s easy to find yourself on a parallel path! The plateau-like ridge of Nagy-Kő-hegy only begins to slope steeply near Magyarkút; here, the Blue Trail also follows a narrow path bordered by dense forest, clear-cut areas, and undergrowth. We descend from the mountain past a lumberyard just as we cross the Keskeny-bükki Stream. The OKT continues by turning left, but we must make a short detour in the opposite direction to get the Magyarkút stamp and visit the Irma Spring. We have to walk just under 300 meters toward Magyarkút, where we find the next OKT stamp location beneath the menu posted outside the restaurant next to the magnificent, stone-enclosed Irma Spring.

The Irma Spring, also known as the Magyar Spring, was built in 1889 by iron manufacturer Ferenc Swadló out of gratitude for the recovery of his daughter, Irma. The spring’s flow isn’t very strong; during dry spells, water may only drip from it, but even then, you can refill your water at the neighboring restaurant. Next to the spring is a forest rest area equipped with numerous benches, tables, a shelter from the rain, a playground, and a fire pit.

Magyarkút – Katalinpuszta

After getting your stamp in Magyarkút, we continue the hike toward Szendehely on a wide gravel road. We follow the Keskeny-Bükki Stream; the Blue Trail diverges from it for only a 150-meter stretch, when it turns onto a picturesque path running parallel to the forest access road. 1.6 km from the Irma Spring, we come across another spring, the Aranyos Spring. Next to the charming, stone-lined spring, wooden tables and benches have been built—the well is lovely, and the rest area is charming.

Bypassing Keskeny-bükk Hill from the north, we follow a meadow path through the widening stream valley, then soon leave the stream behind. Crossing a wooden bridge, a steep climb looms ahead; over the next half kilometer, we must ascend 50 meters toward Szendehely. At the end of the climb, as we emerge from the forest, a superb view opens up of Szendehely and the surrounding hills from the meadow-covered hilltop. The K trail markers lead past the Holy Trinity Chapel, built in the 19th century. We can rest on a few rickety benches in front of this charming building, but upon arriving in Szendehely, we’ll also find a rest area next to the playground equipped with a rain shelter and much better seating. After passing through the village, you’ll find one of the Blue Trail’s stamp stations on the information board in the parking lot of the restaurant across from Main Road 2. To reach the second stamp location, we need to walk to the Katalinpuszta Hiking Center along paved roads, partly using the bike path.

The hiking center includes a forest school, a restaurant, a playground, a miniature train, a rest area, and an observation tower; those wishing to stay overnight will also find lodging for hikers. Several popular nature trails also start from here.