Csóványos with extras – on the side ridges of Börzsöny wilderness

Itinerary

• From Diósjenő railway station (or from the bus stop), follow the Z trail through the village and then head into the mountains.
• After Csehvár, on the Red Stone slope, switch to the PX trail, which is a ski trail. Follow this to Fultán Cross.
• From Fultán Cross, take the K trail to reach Csóványos.
• From Csóványos, descend along the Z trail to Varsa Peak.
• Follow the P▲ markers along the Pogányvár ridge.
• In the valley, join the P trail, which leads to the vicinity of Királyháza.
• Ascend to Dobogó Peak via the right-turning K◼ trail and follow it along the ridge.
• At Hárombarát Saddle, turn left onto the Z trail, which takes you back to Diósjenő.

Detailed description of the hike

Below Csehvár

Leaving the railway station, which has seen better days, turn right, then left at the first intersection to begin a long village walk through Diósjenő. The low, forested hills rising above the rooftops do not yet reveal the true heights and complex forests of Börzsöny. After some winding, we enter the trees and soon find ourselves on an asphalt road.

We quickly leave the timber transport road on the left and enter a sunny oak grove. After a short climb, we cross another forestry road and then are forced onto a steep ascent along the side of the Dugóhúzó valley. Approaching the end, the path becomes increasingly strenuous, climbing along the valley bottom. Steps help at the final meters, mainly useful in rainy, muddy, or snowy conditions.

On the way to High Börzsöny

One of Börzsöny's strengths was a fortress on Csehvár’s peak to our left. Now only trench remnants remain; the view is overtaken by forest. Our path bends right; shortly, we cross the ridge of the eastern Börzsöny subrange and continue on the PX ski trail along the rear side. Mostly in young forests, we walk beside the Kemence stream but far enough that the water’s roar is not heard here. The Verebes Scythe clearing breaks the forest — at this resting place is the memorial post of forest engineer Géza Sándor.

The hike’s character changes significantly: we continue in an old beech forest mixed with pine. This marks arrival into the High Börzsöny area. Notice the red pines: though not native, they have been present since the early 18th century in the northeastern (and partly northern) part of the range. The Esterházys, owners of the Diósjenő forest estate since 1715, created new forest management hierarchies and brought in settlers (Prussian, Moravian, and German), who introduced modern forestry methods of their time. They brought the first red pines, which were highly demanded for logs sold by the forest district. The extent of needed timber is reflected by the timber rafting system built to the Danube riverbank at Verőce, unparalleled in Hungary’s mid-mountain ranges (this method was common in the Carpathian high mountains).

The trail soon leaves the wide road, crosses a rocky streambed, and continues on a path. In the dark hall-like forest of huge beeches, cooler winds blow than in lower stretches. Returning to a dozer road, we wind out from unceasingly beautiful forest to the Fultán Cross clearing.

Below Csóványos

János Fultán, a former forest ranger, once hid under nearby foliage waiting for two wood thieves who eventually killed him on a stormy night — many locals gathered from Diósjenő at the memorial's inauguration. The resting place meadow marks the last section of the path leading to Csóványos. We climb up to the distinctive Három-hárs ridge: to the right, massive old beeches cast shadows, to the left, golden drying grasses sway, and views open to Szén Stream valley. From one point, Szokolya and the hills on the far side of the Danube Bend are visible. The panorama helps realize the height gained compared to surrounding areas.

The forest soon closes overhead again, and in silvery-barked, usually wind-swept montane beech forest, we tackle the Csóványos. The trail leaves the straight section of the Fultán route (whichever we choose, parallel paths), and after about 10-15 minutes of climbing, we reach the lookout base. From the upper balcony of the tower adding 20 meters to the 938-meter peak, a splendid panoramic view unfolds. Standing in the range’s center, we see into the valleys of the caldera, the green-covered Börzsöny’s nearly complete structure spreads before us — only the northern ridges of our next destination are hidden. The Bükk is visible only in exceptionally clear weather, but normally from the Mátra to Gerecse we can sweep our gaze across the Pannonian plains. Northward, the mountains of the Felvidék region appear: from the Tribeč through the Madaras, Selmec Hills to the Poľana range, their undulations can be traced; on rare (mainly winter) days, distant High Tatras rocky spires peek out behind the Low Tatras alpine meadows.

A mini replica of Vadálló stones

Our descent begins eastward through another beech clearing — the Z trail meanders a few meters below the broad pasture. Shortly, we reach Varsa Peak, which connects the Pogányvár ridge to the Csóványos side branch. Here, we turn left onto the P▲ trail. Again, the Börzsöny magic happens: with a light change of direction, it’s as if stepping into a new landscape. We switch onto a stony ridge section narrowing to just a few meters, covered with diverse-aged, imposing ancient trees cloaked by dark beech forest, the ground enriched by a carpet of fallen, twisted branches.

This hardly trodden wilderness is rare in Hungary; similarly narrow, steep ridge trails are seldom found elsewhere. The brooks from two neighboring valleys sometimes echo, while our narrow path avoids rugged, mossy andesite rocks — sometimes giving the impression of seeing a miniature, forest-covered replica of Vadálló stones. This occasionally eerie, abandoned forest reserve is the highest level of protection for wilderness and beautiful scenery, as forestry interventions do not take place here, and nature is guided by nearly undisturbed ecological processes.

On the land of former inhabitants

After a small clearing, a short but steep climb under gnarled old beeches brings us to the 823-meter-high Pogányvár. The well-defended fortress built there has left nothing but the trench (which our path follows) — yet it is a fascinating witness of old times. Bronze Age Kyjatice culture pottery fragments were found here, as well as around many other Börzsöny fort ruins. The humid climate then likely powered more springs in High Börzsöny than today, so tribes built on the most defendable, steep cliff mountains. Probably, they formed confederations against external threats, and their cities were similar: except one, they lack internal division, indicating little social stratification. They likely grazed animals on the range’s peripheral pastures, as no room existed on the rugged, steep peaks. Their fate is unknown; later, other tribes inhabited their settlements, sometimes ambushing Roman troops during raids.

Following a natural disaster

The trail describes a loop following the gentler slope, then is forced onto a steep, crumbly path. The most beautiful forest section of the hike is only broken by the Pogányvári mowing meadow. We narrowly glimpse the neighboring Jelesfa ridge, which we are heading towards. Gradually, not only the ridge but unfortunately the forest also thins, bordered by huge fallen trees. The ice damage of December 2014 practically wiped out the forest of the upper Pogányvári stream valley; the trail marking disappeared, and impassable conditions still prevail — this also applies to the adjoining Rózsa valley. Forestry cleared the path from Királyháza with superhuman effort — upon reaching the valley bottom, we will notice the difficulty: young, branchy vegetation reaching overhead must be forced through. Storms and ice damage are parts of natural forest life; their role is to kill older tree groups, allowing life opportunities before regrowth — thus rejuvenating the woodland. However, centuries of harvesting have created large areas of same-age, single-species stands which are equally vulnerable or resistant to natural disasters. In northern Börzsöny, extensive same-age beech stands covered slopes, which became victims of the December 2014 frozen rain ice damage. In a natural forest, different-aged and species trees (due to varying resistance) generally only see smaller groups fall to storms or winter ice shells. Hopefully, such forests will start growing again here, with their survival ensured by increased protection.

The valley bottom paints a park-like picture due to missing forest patches. It’s hard to imagine now that a narrow-gauge railway once rattled along the stream. About 1 km in, the P trail joins from the left — we must continue straight. The abundant Rózsás stream is diverted by a small cliff wall, but the water has carved the rock base deeper continuously, so the emerging Tűzköves spring drips like a delicate veil. Above it, a marble plaque commemorates István Bársony, a hunter-writer. Shortly below, the K◼ path branches right, leading us to the Dobogó Peak ridge. (With a short detour, we can visit Királyháza forest settlement, where accommodation can be booked with prior notice.)

View of the Carpathian wilderness

We walk in a sunny oak forest, slowly colored by cooler-loving species, finally populated by beech woodland. The ridge is mostly so sharp that the forest cannot completely cover it; tall grass grows below, gilded by the setting sun’s rays. To the left, the Jelesfa stream valley with dark forests falls sharply down the shaded mountain side. Rocks occasionally protrude from the ground. After a steeper peak, we finally arrive at the Jelesfa sparsely wooded grass ridge section. The panorama opens right: behind the forested heights carrying the Pogányvár and Nagy-Mána ridges stands the cliff-like main ridge of Csóványos-Magosfa. The view behind a decayed tree stump lying in the grass reveals a dense Carpathian forest wilderness rarely found elsewhere in Hungary.

Out of the mountains

Moving on, the terrain first turns into rocky mountain slope, then wide mountain land inhabited by wind-beech forest. We enter a dozer road and within 15 minutes return to the Z trail on the side of Málna Hill. A hunting lodge once stood here, the trail then follows left and downhill along Ételhordó road, which served an old birch meadow hunting castle supply. We proceed through forest thinned naturally and artificially; the microclimate slowly changes beech to oak, finally descending into the rocky valley of Kemence stream. Crossing the watercourse, we set off at Gál meadow towards the eastern mountain range of Börzsöny. Before Csehvár, we meet the PX trail recorded some hours earlier, and begin descending again. This time we can move faster along Dugóhúzó and only have to follow Diósjenő streets downhill to leave the Börzsöny settlement by public transport or car.