In the footsteps of csevices at the northeastern foot of Mátra

Itinerary:

•  We reach the Tót-berki-csevice via the S● marking from the bell tower of Parádóhuta, and return the same way.
• We continue on the S marking passing by the Klarissza-csevice to the apiary forester's lodge.
• We continue on the S+ marking crossing the Szőke-víz stream and the Pál-Bükk stream to the Pál-Bükk saddle.
• From the saddle, we continue again on the S marking passing the Szent István-csevicekút to Parádfürdő.
• At the very beginning of Parádfürdő, at the fork we turn right on the S+ marking, which leads to Mátraderecske.
• At Mátraderecske, we take a short detour to the Büdös-kút or, depending on our mood and strength, to Kanázsvár following the SL marking.

Detailed description of the route:

Around Parádóhuta

The tour starts from the center of Parádóhuta, from the bell tower. First, heading southwest on the S● marking along Széchenyi and Wesselényi streets, we make a detour to the Tót-berki-csevice spring at the edge of the village. We enter the narrow valley through quiet village streets, passing a gate on the left, and sidling over the stream among ancient beeches, then after a few hundred meters, the marking changes into the stream bed and leads to the rocks of a small side valley. The sheet clay slate at the bottom of the cut is coated by a reddish layer where the high mineral-content water breaks through small cracks to the surface. Locals have long used the water from the csevice spring, protected with a covered well pipe for easier access. Lifting the cover, with the measuring cup beside the wells, we can also taste the carbonated, slightly sulfurous mineral water. At the confluence of the small side valley with the stream bed, a few rusty spots can be seen between the stones; these too are mineral water upwellings, although here they mix with the stream water.

We return to the village center on the S● marking, then leave the village on the S marking heading southeast on Clarissa Street. At the meeting point of houses and forest, we find a nicely built, covered spring enclosure. At the foot of the staircase leading there, we can taste the carbonated water of the Klarissza-csevice in pleasant coolness. This spring has low sulfate content, no hydrogen sulfide taste, but due to its high iron content, it resembles rusty well water. Around the constructed spring, we can sit at benches on the edge of a small clearing, enjoying the breath of the Mátra forests. From here, we leave the village and head towards the inner parts of the mountains.

In Ilona Valley

We continue on the S marking, which bypasses the apiary forester's lodge. On the other side of the building, we proceed eastwards on the S+ marking along a bulldozer road, which at the apiary fork turns into the Pál-Bükk stream valley. We walk beside a clearing in the densely overgrown stream valley, where fallen trees and collapsing slopes occasionally make the path unclear. We follow the valley upwards, from which a marking branches off in young forest in a cut and leads to the Pál-Bükk saddle. On the other side, the descending S marking passes along a stream bed edge, here in much older and denser forest. The valley called Macska-lyuk is very steep in its middle section, but it is the most straightforward passage between Parádóhuta and Ilona Valley. If you fear steep mountain paths, this section can be bypassed from the apiary fork on the P+ marking towards Sándorrét along an asphalt bulldozer road, comfortably with minimal elevation change reaching Ilona Valley and the Szent-István csevice; however, note that this route is twice as long.

On the original route, after Macska-lyuk, we reach an asphalt road running through Ilona Valley at the edge of a pleasant clearing. Across the meadow, a semicircle of planted forest reflects the sound echo-like, as the nature trail sign calls our attention to. We can walk in the shade along a centuries-old chestnut tree row thanks to the Károlyi family, who owned the area in the early 19th-20th centuries, enriching the forests around Parádd with many buildings, promenades, and chestnut rows. Near the lower end of the clearing, crossing a small bridge over the stream, we reach the Szent István-csevice path. We must pull water from nearly 10 meters deep with a handle-operated, twist-type well if we want to taste the csevice here. The bucket can be used to fill the small tin container by the well’s edge, from which the water trickles like a spring. The carbonated, sulfurous-smelling water was used by locals against stomach troubles and hangovers. Next to the well, a neatly organized resting place offers excellent picnic opportunities, including designated fire pits, benches, tables, and even a shelter. It is worth resting here, reflecting on the atmosphere of Mátra in the shady clearing lined with old trees.

From here, the road leads outward from the mountains, although pleasant meadows and chestnut rows accompany our way. We can inspect geological nature trail stations in Ilona Valley with a small detour, such as the alum mine before Sándorrét or the mining tunnels at the valley entrance. Approaching Parádfürdő, we pass a decorated shrine at the base of a huge oak tree. The Maria image column here is a significant tradition; in various locations on the mountain, we find similar venerable memorials on settlement edges, reflecting locals' piety.

At the classic resort village of Parádfürdő

At the end of Ilona Valley, we cross under a Székely gate with symbolic meaning. Here, we enter the resort village developed under the Károlyi family in the 19th century. To boost resort life, beautiful classicist buildings were erected to utilize the discovered medicinal waters. Guests’ healing was complemented with time spent in nature, the forest's healing power, and the joy of movement. For this purpose, many walking paths were built around Parádfürdő, most of which have largely been reclaimed by the forest or covered with asphalt today.

On such an asphalt road, we pass the resort village. Next to the spa hospital park, at the fork, we turn right on Peres Street following S+ marking. We bypass a mountain ridge over the Parád-Tarna stream with minimal elevation gain. In the mountain’s central part, the alum deposit was found, which was the basis for local mining and provided natural alum water, on which the spa culture was also built. After cresting the ridge and descending through the oak forest, we leave the resort village behind and follow the Baláta stream valley to the Lahóca mountain, discovered in the 20th century for its valuable mineral wealth including copper ore and precious metals, even more valuable than the previous mountain.

In the shadow of Lahóca mountain

The heavily eroded Oligocene andesite block between Recsk and Parád was the basis for copper production in Hungary, with extensive mining tunnels almost networked through the entire mountain by deepening shafts. With galleries reaching nearly one kilometer deep, they mined a copper deposit once considered the largest known worldwide. The significant ore deposit also contained gold as a byproduct. Mines were closed due to unprofitable extraction and the rise of overseas ore mining. Today, only the ghostly remains of heavily vegetated former mine entrances and service facilities are visible.

The hiking trail follows the mainly unused asphalt road upward along the flow of Baláta stream. We can estimate former heavy vehicle traffic from road meter marks. Leaving the marshy stream valley, we turn off the asphalt at a meadow, heading east on a bulldozer road crossing the meadow towards Mátraderecske. From the highland clearing, we have a good view back to the Mátra and can see opposite the last tower ruins of Kanázsvár dominating the village outskirts.

Through sparse forest, we arrive at Mátraderecske’s Tóvölgy district, descending among charming weekend houses into the Balla stream valley between the brick factory and the former Kincses Thermal Bath. Unfortunately, the well supplying thermal water for the bath has silted up, and the thermal bath has been closed for years.

On the opposite side of the stream, we make a small detour on the Kanázsvár street following SL marking, which leads to the Büdös-kút near the village edge and the neighboring Kanázsvár. It is worth walking this few hundred meters through an otherwise depressingly rundown village part, as after the houses in a concrete basin, the truly nose-wrinkling water of Büdös-kút springs. With high sulfate content, it emits a strong sulfurous rotten egg smell. Despite the strange smell, the local mineral water with medicinal effects is recommended against stomach ailments.

If we still have energy and desire, the SL marking leads to nearby Kanázsvár, circling the village hill and turning onto the steep mountainside at the old dried poplar tree in the neighboring valley. Surprisingly tough to reach, the fortress was deliberately built here. The fortress was probably constructed in the Árpád era by a family of the Aba clan that ruled the area. It did not play a significant role in history but possibly served as an outpost fortress for Sirok. From the heights, there is an excellent view over the valley below and the northeastern side of Mátra. The only remaining part of the fortress is a surrealistically slim and tall tower fragment rising above the surroundings as a rallying symbol.

After the adventures, we return the way we came to the village, reconnecting with the S+ marking and reaching the village center, the market square next to the church.