From Bánkút to Várkút (Bükk trekking 3.)

Itinerary:

• We head from Bánkút to Tar-kő following the K markers.
• We detour to the rocky viewpoint of the peak via the K▲ marker.
• We descend along the K markers to the Kis-virágos-lápa intersection.
• Turn left on the Z marker and walk to Toldi-kapu.
• Again, turn left onto the K+ markers and march to Tamás-kút.
• Also turning left, we climb along the K marker to the edge of the Gyökeres clearing.
• Turn right onto the Z marker and hike on the Török road to the saddle before Várhegy.
• The P markers will navigate us to the Várkúti tourist house.

Route description:

From Bánkút to the interior of the Nagy-fennsík

Bánkút is situated at the saddle between the Nagy- and Kis-fennsík, near the Bálvány and Borovnyák peaks. It is a well-known mountain resort and sports location in our country. The current Fehér Sas guesthouse building was originally constructed in 1931 as a shelter house by the Hungarian Tourist Association Diósgyőr Department near the ski slopes. For many decades it operated as one of the country's most popular tourist accommodations, but due to lack of proper maintenance and modernization, its condition deteriorated so much that it had to close in 1987. Ten years later, after the regime change, it reopened renovated and rebuilt as a guesthouse, where dining is also available. The namesake Bán-kút spring can be found next to the nearby Bánkúti tourist house.

We start heading south beside the guesthouse fence along the K markers, then cross a power line clearing. If we detour left from the next road intersection, we can view the closed entrance of the 161-meter-deep Diabáz sinkhole. Studies of this periodically active sinkhole formed in Triassic limestone have shown that its water resurfaces at the Garadna spring.

From the Csalános hill deforestation, the top of the Petőfi lookout tower on Bálvány becomes visible (the tower, offering an excellent panoramic view, can be reached from Bánkút on the Z marker), then passing through the now diminished pine forest, we arrive at the long-grass meadow of Faktor-rét. On a large beech tree, we find the bronze image of the Madonna of Faktor-rét, who, according to legends, appeared several times to forest workers and lime and charcoal burners passing by.

Across meadows to Tar-kő

We cross the clearing, then turn left onto a wide gravel road, walking through beech woods. In the saddle between Fodor hill and Füstös-kő-bérc, the forest opens up, and on the small meadow we can clearly observe natural karst depressions formed by water dissolution; these karst formations are characteristic of the Bükk plateau.

Walking again in the forest, we see man-made depressions: the pits of lime-burning kilns used for generations by the villages in Bükk. Loading the kiln, burning the lime, and extracting it took several days under constant supervision.

We cross a spruce forest, then leave the bulldozer road and walk through the Mély-sár-völgy meadow with rows of sinkholes. At its far end, we join the forestry paved road leading to Szilvásvárad. Soon, the K marker turns off this road, and on a path parallel to the asphalt strip, we cross another beautiful hay meadow. We arrive at a rain shelter beside the Kis-sár-völgy mouth, where we turn back to the paved road and walk to the edge of Zsidó-rét. This Carpathian atmosphere clearing formed in the 18th century when local industry cut the forests for timber. The created pasture lands were later used as hayfields and grazing areas. Without tree cover, the system of sinkholes is visible, and crossing the open terrain, we see large karst pits with limestone rock sides. At the beginning of the meadow, there is a forest-edge resting place and a rain shelter.

A branching educational trail offers a closer look at these dissolution depressions, whose distinctive cool, moist microclimate nurtures special plant life. Snow usually remains here until early summer.

At the edge of the plateau

We continue with a gentle ascent across the long grassy Keskeny-rét, where at its upper end we reach the southern edge of the plateau. From a forest edge road junction, there is an opportunity to visit the Három-kő lookout rock via a 400-meter detour on the Z▲ marker.

We climb further through beech woods toward the saddle of Büszkés hill. To the left, a landscape scar caused by the recent logging of an old forest opening a panorama to the Három-kő rocks and the highlights of the Southern Bükk. A few minutes later, we stand at the 949-meter peak of Tar-kő. Following the K▲ markers, we can reach the grassy rocky ledge viewpoint.

We are at the steep cliff of the plateau, along a line of rocks; below our feet, the lower terrain of the Southern Bükk rolls. Our entire further route is visible, including the ridge leading to our final destination before the Great Plain: Várhegy. Below, the houses of Felsőtárkány and Eger appear in the distance, and the depth of the Hór valley is clearly visible. To the west, the prominences of Három-kő tower, while to the east the Mátra is visible. The grassy rocky ledge is a great place to rest, admire the views, and gather strength for the further journey.

Descending into the Southern Bükk

Returning to the K marked path, we descend steeply on a white limestone rock-streaked trail among ash and beech trees to the Kis-Virágos-lápa intersection. Turning left onto the Z marker, we continue the descent to Toldi-kapu. This section is part of the King's road, which runs from Felsőtárkány to Gerennavár; according to tradition, King Louis the Great also used it. The name Toldi-kapu refers to the rocky gate (pass) formed by plateau stones. From here, following the K+ markers left, we walk comfortably along a level path at the base of Tar-kő. If we go the opposite way on the K+ markers, after 700 meters we reach the covered bivouac of Toldi hut, an excellent nomadic overnight place.

From the branch at the Upper-Kiskút-lápa toward the exit of Hór valley and Ódorvár, there is an excellent panorama. The descent continues on the Malom hill side; at the bottom, we step onto a wide transport road, walking to the edge of Hereg meadow. We pass a large rain shelter and come out to a long clearing that for decades hosted nature conservation camps. This site is also suitable for overnight stays, and water can be taken from the nearby Lénárt spring.

From the lower end of the meadow, we walk along the Eger paved road, examining the strongly wrinkled limestone layer folds in its curve. A few minutes later, we stand at the occupied spring of Tamás-kút, where we can quench our thirst. Nearby is the building of Tamás-kúti Guesthouse. Continuing on the K markers, we climb breathlessly along the side of Kis-Som to the Gyökeres clearing, from where we continue following the Z markers to the right.

Walking the Török road

Our further route follows an old medieval path, the Török road, which was marked on the ridge of the mountain range between Felsőtárkány and the Sajó valley during the Turkish occupation. Passing through beech woods, then oak forests, we descend to the muddy saddle between Kolozs hill and Lajos-hegyes on the county border. The ridge's exposed rock changes from the usual limestone to clay shale, which settled on the karst in this region. Soon, we can make a small detour to the fenced mouth of the clay shale shaft near Nádasbérc. The deep vertical cave breaks through the cover layer and ends in limestone.

At the edge of the also marshy Táškás meadow, another saddle follows, then after crossing a forestry paved road, we descend to the Csipkés-kút spring. Exiting onto the Bükkzsérc road, we head to the Völgyfő house. The former forest ranger's residence standing at this important junction now operates as a guesthouse, with a resting place beside it.

Continuing on the Török road, we walk through the oak forest of Barát-erdő with a gentle ascent. Its name refers to the former monastery of Barát valley below. Below Borzlyuk hill, a rewarding view opens before us: we can observe the long ridge edge of the Bükk plateau. The line of rocks from Őr-kő to Három-kő is clearly identifiable, and we can also see our previous position on the rock of Tar-kő.

Continuing winding on the Z marker, the landscape also opens from the sides of Tárkányi-orom and Vasbánya hill, allowing us to admire the view of the wave-like forests of the Southern Bükk. The area is known locally as Ménesakol or Ménes-side, referring to the former large stable of the Turks.

Kövesdi lookout and Várhegy

After the rain shelter and resting place at Vasbánya saddle, we walk through a loose oak forest to the Kövesdi lookout rocks and their resting benches. From this natural viewpoint, there is a panorama of Bükkalja’s gradually flattening hills and villages toward the Great Plain, and also of the Mezőkövesd region. Beneath one tree, we can pay tribute at a memorial site built from stones by two deceased nature walkers.

We continue along the P marker with a final effort descending to the Várkúti tourist house on the side of Várhegy. If we still have the energy, from the saddle junction above the house we can walk on the Z and then Z▲ markers to the peak of Várhegy to explore the ancient castle remains. The Várkúti shelter house, built in 1925 by the Hungarian Tourist Association Egri Bükk Department, has been beautifully renovated and provides comfortable accommodation for the tired traveler. It was originally named after Gyula Isaák, who was the lord lieutenant of Heves county and president of the department at the time of construction. On both sides of the meadow in front of the house, we find a Marian shrine and the abundant spring of Vár-kút.