Börzsöny discovery route between Kismaros and Nagymaros

Itinerary

• We leave the Csattogó Valley campsite heading west following the signs of the Gyöngyök útja trail.

• Arriving in Kismaros, we join the Z trail at the main road. We continuously climb up the ridge towering over Kismaros. After a steep ascent, a wide dirt road runs along the ridge, lined with small gardens.

• On the Z▲ trail, we can take a short detour to the panoramic Nagy-kőszikla viewpoint. We can enjoy the stunning views of the Danube Bend multiple times along the route, each time from a different angle.

• We follow the Z trail all the way to the P+ trail, turning onto it and after one kilometer reaching the P trail and Pusztatorony.
• From there, we follow the P signs all the way to Köves-mező, passing the Törökmező tourist house. After long comfortable paths, we climb the Gubacsi-hálás – from where we also get a nice view – before exiting the forest to the meadow above Nagymaros.
• From Köves-mező, following the K+ signs from the panoramic hillside, we descend to the train station and the Danube shore.

Detailed description

Starting from Csattogó Valley, nestled at the foot of the Börzsöny Mountains, we set out on a wide dirt road for a not too strenuous 18 km distance. Heading west towards Kismaros, we follow the unique yellow signs of the Gyöngyök útja (Pilgrim’s Way), stylized as a rosary, until we reach the main road of the settlement leading to Szokolya. Parallel to this runs the Királyréti Forest Railway tracks and the Morgó stream, and for a short distance, the Z hiking trail which we follow on our route. We don't have to stay on pavement long: at the base of Nagy-Morgó, the signs lead into the hillside, and this marks the beginning of our first significant climb, initially through a weekend cottage area, then along a clearing for a power line. After the steeper section, the ascent continues gently along the ridge. The gardens and small houses here create a mixed atmosphere; some maintained, while others are ruined and mar the landscape.

On Kilátó út, on the left side, we notice the Z▲ signs. They lead us on a 400-meter detour to the Nagy-kőszikla lookout, well worth the extra effort to experience one of the lesser-known panoramas of the Danube Bend.

With or without detour, we continue following the Z trail on the wide dirt road, practically unnoticed passing over the 377-meter peak of Gál Hill. On this stretch, the elevation change is so slight that only a geodetic marker indicates the highest point of the ridge. From here, we gradually descend through an area where the famous African hunter and researcher, Kálmán Kittenberger, also hunted. To the northwest, on our left in the forest, one of his hunting stands still stands, built over 60 years ago. A plaque here commemorates it. Nearby is the Rózsa Hut where Kittenberger spent long days with his best friend, the famous writer István Fekete, retreating from the world. We follow the Z and then P+ trails without visiting these places, but those familiar with Fekete István’s hunting stories will recognize the Börzsöny setting.

The P+ trail leads to the bypassed Toronyalja fishing pond and joins the P trail, which leads us to Bibervár. This former fortress, barely worthy of the name, was more of a watchtower than a castle. Little is known about its name and history. Bibervár – also called Pusztatorony – probably already existed by the late 12th century. Based on archaeological finds here, the small stronghold consisted of a residential tower and a small adjoining courtyard, with a nearby settlement presumably called Toronyalja. The destruction of this site is only assumed, possibly in the early 14th century during the anarchic times following the extinction of the Árpád dynasty in 1301, likely damaged during an attack. To reach the remaining ruins, we need only make a short detour of a few meters from the P trail before reaching the Kóspallag main road by a short but steep descent.

The Toronyalja Pauline Monastery

Crossing the asphalt road southwards, initially along a wide cart track, then on a path through tall grass, before reaching the wild streambed, on our right we can observe a small steep elevation: the site of the former Pauline monastery of Toronyalja, where today only scattered stones and a well commemorate the monks who once prayed and lived here.

The Saint Michael Pauline monastery belonging to the vicariate of Márianosztra was presumably founded at the turn of the 14th and 15th centuries, probably using stones from the already ruined Pusztatorony. Its first written mention is from 1437, although some sources mention the church and its patron saint as early as 1381. Research indicates the monastery's first church was an octagonal sanctuary with three sides and buttresses, later expanded. The monastery building was connected to the north side of the church but today only traces of its walls can be seen in the dense undergrowth. The monastery also had a mill and a fishpond. Many artifacts were found in its 20-meter deep well: wooden-handled knives, sickles, wagon parts, a lock, two iron shackles, a can, and more. Its destruction and the depopulation of the surrounding area are likely attributed to the Turkish occupation period, directly after the fall of Buda and Esztergom. From the P marked hiking trail, only a 50-100 meter detour is needed to reach the forgotten ruins, ideal if your exploring spirit is content with modestly impressive historical relics.

Following the steep valley wall and winding stream, sometimes struggling with fallen trees and dense vegetation, we reach the Békás meadow. The widened open space suddenly opens a gentle, idyllic environment before us, with northern views of the higher ridges of the Börzsöny. Crossing the meadow, we reach the asphalt road leading to Törökmező. Turning right here, we walk a few meters and then continue parallel in the forest.

We reached Törökmező, where we find a long-standing tourist house. Here we can not only refresh ourselves! In recent years, the tourist center evolved into an adventure park, mainly targeting school groups, but its pleasant environment is refreshing for anyone seeking a rest during a hike.

We continue following the P trail on comfortable, almost flat terrain. Walking under shady trees, near a forestry road, winding up to the southern Börzsöny heights. At the asphalted car park, we change from the P trail to the Z▲ marks going right. On this rocky and sometimes slippery path, we climb the 360-meter Gubacsi-hálás, from where we can admire, without detours this time, the magnificent Danube Bend, the ranges of Visegrád Mountains opposite, and, of course, the famous fortress.

Another viewpoint from Köves-mező

We meander along the steep ridge hidden by trees; unfortunately, the view appears only occasionally between the foliage. But there is no reason to be discouraged, as we will still have panoramic views on the way, but first, we must reach Köves-mező. Before that, the National Blue Trail from the heart of the mountain range joins our route from the right. From here, together with the K marks, we head south, that is, left, crossing a wide meadow. After a few hundred meters, we reach Köves-mező, then shortly the K▲ marks lead to a panoramic rest area. This natural viewpoint with benches offers another angle to see one of our country’s most beautiful regions. It is worth stopping here for a few minutes before we take the last steps of our hike down to Nagymaros below.

The K+ sign undoubtedly leads us down to the settlement the fastest way, but it must be mentioned that it is far from the most beautiful route. The deep path, illegally used as a landfill by locals, is littered with household waste, rubble, and tires, which the runoff rainfall turns into trash islands. During rainy weather, traffic on this few hundred meter section is not recommended; instead, it is advisable to take a parallel path.

Once we arrive at Nagymaros, it is entirely up to us how we finish our tour. The Danube bank is accessible in every season via the concurrently running K and P trails. Needless to say, life buzzes especially in summer, and we’re greeted with refreshing water. Bathing, restaurants, and buffets can close the day with a perfect discovery trip. The excellent local public transport ensures getting home. Trains go hourly from the Nagymaros-Visegrád railway stop to Budapest, or we can take a ferry to the Visegrád side, from where buses provide further connections.