Circular hike along Naszály from Csattogó Valley

Itinerary 

•  We leave the Csattogó Valley campsite following the signs of the Gyöngyök útja (Path of Pearls) eastward.
• After reaching the P mark on the wide dirt road, turn left. On this road, we wind north through a weekend house settlement, then upon reaching an intersection and the K ◼ mark,
• Turn right onto the K ◼ marked path, and take the asphalt strip leading from Magyarkút towards the forest.
• After passing the Irma Spring, we follow the National Blue Trail K mark on our northward route. The wide dirt road in the valley passes the Aranyos Spring and the Holy Trinity Chapel before we enter the houses of Szendehely. Crossing the settlement, we continue following the K marks until Katalinpuszta.
• From the excursion center, we proceed along the P mark. On the way, we pass the Rockenbauer Pál memorial post and the Czettler manor, which has seen better days. Exiting onto the main road, we continue to follow the P mark that leads us up to Fenyves Hill.
• At the summit, a short detour on the P▲ mark offers a spectacular panorama. On a rocky, gravelly, and occasionally muddy cart track, we descend from Verőce's weekend house area to the village center. The P mark practically guides us back to our starting point. We return along the same road in the Csattogó Valley as we started our hike.

Detailed description

From Csattogó Valley at the foot of Börzsöny, we set off on a wide dirt road for a not too difficult hike of nearly 20 km with 334 meters of elevation gain. Heading east towards Magyarkút, we follow the unique yellow signs stylized as a rosary of the Gyöngyök útja (pilgrimage path) until we reach a hiking trail marked P leading out from Verőce. Turning left here, we continue north through a weekend house area, then after about two kilometers, turn left onto the K ◼ mark. We cross a stone bridge over the Gimpli brook and soon reach the famous cooling water source, Irma Spring, also known as Magyar-kút. The spring's enclosure was built in 1889, and its water is still drinkable today. Its quality is reflected by the fact that many owners of nearby holiday homes source their drinking water from here, not only during summer heatwaves. Refreshment is not only provided by the spring water; at the nearby tavern called "Kocsma a pipáshoz," you can find every earthly good whether hungry or thirsty.

Leaving Irma Spring behind, we follow the National Blue Trail K marks northwards. We continue straight through the shaded valley on a wide forest road to the also refreshing Aranyos Spring. From the atmospheric forest rest area, we still have to cover more than 3 km to Szendehely, crossing its tidy streets. We approach the village from the west, along a panoramic meadow, passing a small chapel at its edge.

Szendehely and surroundings

The area was originally called Szenthely - likely after the landowner bishopric - but the name changed to Szendehely over time. The Germans who settled here came in 1717 from the Franconian region of Bavaria, initially founding a village near Berkenye, but in 1753, due to overpopulation, part of the population moved here along the road leading to Vác and Nagymaros ferry. Traditionally, locals were mainly engaged in forestry and viticulture. Even today, extensive vineyards cultivate the local tradition of winemaking on the surrounding slopes.

The village once belonged to the estate of the Bishop of Vác, probably donated by Saint Stephen to the church. During the 1848 revolution, a fire devastated the settlement, and almost half the houses were consumed by flames. Fortunately, many old residential houses survived, some still preserving the characteristic red-painted folk furniture made from pine wood, decorated with “fláderos” painting. Beside the arched bridge of the old village, a stone statue of Saint John of Nepomuk carved in 1830 stands as a monument; our route passes this monument following the K marks.

Just after leaving Szendehely through the forest, a few hundred meters later, we come out to Katalinpuszta, commonly called the gateway to Börzsöny. The excursion center here serves both as a forest rest place and a program point for hiking families and groups of friends. From the forest school and modern accommodation, the spectacular Gyadai nature trail starts, a favorite of children: the Ant Railway, and among other attractions, a cozy pond and buffet can be found. Hikers of the Blue Trail begin or end the Börzsöny section here after stamping their certificates.

We leave Katalinpuszta on the P path, climbing up the side of Naszály. Our initially steep ascent is soon replaced by a zigzagging trail, and later we need not fear climbing the 652-meter-high mountain. Our roller coaster-like narrow trail passes by a memorial post dedicated to Pál Rockenbauer, one of the icons of domestic hiking.

About Pál Rockenbauer and his memory

Few hikers don’t know who Pál Rockenbauer was or are unfamiliar with his country tour series titled “One and a Half Million Steps in Hungary.” Hearing the symbolic main theme (“Start on one road, I start on another...”) even those not particularly interested in nature or documentary shows recall that certain group of cycle-pushing wanderers. Undoubtedly, this was Rockenbauer’s and his team's most famous and impactful film, which, over 14 episodes, showcased Hungary’s landscapes and its people and attracted a broad enthusiastic audience beyond its usual viewers.

However, Rockenbauer’s unique work is embodied not only in this valuable multi-faceted creation. From the 1960s, he filmed many successful movies of global journeys, giving television viewers insight into rarely seen icy worlds of the South Pole, the beauty and challenges of high-altitude hiking, and the colorful aquatic life of Cuban waters. The spirit and message of Pál Rockenbauer remain a valuable legacy for those who love to discover, understand, and experience things.

After the memorial, the P marked path passes by the Czettler manor, which has seen better days, then descends on an overgrown trail to the main road No. 2. Fortunately, we only have to cover a few meters along the roadside on this busy road, but we do not leave the asphalt even afterward. After an intersection, we continue the red trail on the main road leading to Verőce, then after only 500 meters, turn back into the forest. The left-branching trail continuously climbs and takes us up to the 294-meter-high Fenyves Hill in nearly 2 kilometers. On the P▲ mark, we only need a few meters detour to admire the inexhaustible panorama of the Danube Bend.

A lesser-known but unparalleled panorama

From the Fenyves Hill lookout, we have a perfect view of the opposite Visegrád Mountains, the Szentendre Island, the characteristic mountains of the southern Börzsöny region, and, of course, the Danube itself, to name only the main sights. After enjoying this unmatched view, we continue following the P mark towards Verőce. We descend on a gently sloping ridge on a gravel road to the settlement. We cover this approximately 2.5 km route winding through small gardens and weekend cottages, sometimes with views towards Naszály or the Danube Bend.

After descending into Verőce, the P mark takes us back to the entrance of Csattogó Valley, from where we return on the familiar gravel road to the starting point of our hike, the Csattogó Valley campsite.