Around the valley of Ördög-árok

Itinerary

• We leave the bus turnaround on the asphalt heading into the forest, following the thematic signs of the Gyöngyök útja.
• We turn right onto the Z marking.
• A few meters later, we turn left onto the Z↺ marking.
• At the Határ-nyereg we turn left onto the K marking, which we follow until Hűvösvölgy.
• We leave the Hűvösvölgy station on the stairs, following the S marking, climbing along the side of Hárs-hegy.
• We take a left detour from the S marking on the S▲ signs to the Little Hárs-hegy lookout.
• We return to the junction and climb up to the Hárs-hegy summit on the S marking.
• We descend to Szépjuhászné on the S marking.
• Before Budakeszi road we turn left onto the purple ᵯ marking.
• We make a to-and-fro detour to the ruins of the Pálos monastery to the right on the purple L marking.
• We turn right on the purple ᵯ signs and reach a crossroad under the railway station.
• Again we turn right onto the PT marking.
• After a forest resting place we turn right onto an unmarked path that leads to the Z marking.
• We head left on the Z marking; this leads to the Apáthy rock, then almost all the way to the end of the route (the last few known meters are completed on the Gyöngyök útja marking).

Detailed description of the route

Back to the city, facing the green

Our hike starts with our back to the city, facing the forest on the symbolic signs of the Gyöngyök útja – staying on Görgényi street for a few more meters. Further ahead, we enter the forest on the Z markings to the right, then almost immediately turn left onto the Z↺ markings. After the initial orientation task, a peaceful forest walk awaits us; we traverse the middle segment of the slopes of Hármashatár-hegy. Thanks to the tangled, mixed forest, we can only sense from the sounds that we are close to inhabited areas, but we won’t see them. The path bends left and reaches the “bear playground,” a landmark known for decades, named after a carved bear statue. We stay on the right-turning marking and walk on a wide, gravel road with picnic and resting places on both sides. The slope gently rises until we reach the Határ-nyereg with some tight bends. As the boundary stones point out, this was once the border between Budapest and the still independent Hidegkút region.

Nearby is also the monument of King Mátyás’s game reserve – a low, elongated mound beside a path, the remains of an old natural stone wall that surrounded the king’s favored hunting ground, an area with clearings interrupted by groves about 6 km long, according to contemporary descriptions. At the junction, we can notice one of the many military graves in the vicinity – these, together with nearby ammunition bunkers, are mementos of the fierce fights at the end of World War II. (It is worth climbing up the small Homok hill, from whose edge the next important location of our hike, the airport and its surroundings, unfolds.)

Airport in the embrace of the mountains

We turn left and switch to the National Blue Trail K marking. Soon a huge, bright clearing appears on the right, hidden among the row of trees; we have arrived at the grassy runway of the Hármashatár-hegy airport. The vast meadow, framed by hills and Újlaki-hegy (the former field of Hidegkút residents), is the base of gliders, over which paragliders often circle. Its predecessor became the site of domestic aviation’s rebirth after the opening between the two World Wars and later evolved into a historically significant and unavoidable venue. The airport is operated by the Technical University Sport Flying Association, which tested many of its own designed aircraft here for the first time (including the inventions of Ernő Rubik). The beginnings were difficult: the authorities declared the Hármashatár-hegy area unfit for flying, until the famous designer-pilot Lajos Rotter first flew over it proving the assessment wrong. The dominantly northwest winds twisted by the mountains create a “lift” that can remarkably hold the aircraft and paragliders “to the sky” for a prolonged time, but nearly any wind creates distinct upward currents. (For example, Rotter Lajos started here and reached an altitude of 1300 meters, soaring all the way to Szanda Castle in Nógrád.) As technology evolved, the airport also changed: initially, planes were “shot out” from the hilltop with rubber ropes, but as winching and towing became common, the base and grass field moved into the valley. The opposite, bushy-sided Vöröskő-vár hill was the initial landing ground.

At the end of the ’60s, it was also the venue for the pentathlon world championship; after a few years’ break, it still fulfills its original purpose today. Its splendid setting is also popular for excursions, plus it enjoys protection as the ground is inhabited by marmots – pleasing to the various bird species that prey on them and the very rare ominous grass snakes. The tourist trail with the K marking takes a left turn near a border stone and crosses an old forest with broad paths on the side of Vadaskerti-hegy. The walkway is named after Ferenc Glück, a hotel owner who lived at the turn of 19th-20th century and was an enthusiastic patron of tourist facilities in Buda, making his mark in the history of Hungarian nature tourism. He is connected to the initiation and support of the János-hegy and Árpád lookouts – no wonder the walkway winding from the latter until here bears his name. Descending slowly, overcoming a few slippery, rocky slopes, we approach Ördög-árok alongside a stream, which we eventually cross.

People in the valley

The Ördög-árok brook is a specialist in navigating the clods of Buda, finding its way to the Danube through several ridges despite its modest size. Its valleys and gorges designated important transportation corridors for the growing number of settlers. A similar narrowing deepened in the Hűvös valley, where the flat valley opening toward the Danube and the Hidegkút basin embraced by mountains connect. On this important traffic artery, a tavern was established by the late 18th century, later an inn called Balázs after the operating family, which functioned until the early 21st century when it was closed and demolished. The site likely got its name from the cold air trapped in the narrow, deep area and its earlier German name, Kühlental (Cool Valley), is a literal translation.

We cross the busy road and arrive opposite to the bus and tram terminus. The historic-looking, timber-framed buildings date from the 19th century, though during renovation at the end of the 1990s, they were rebuilt slightly away from their original location. We climb the stairs and before the Children’s Railway terminus, we turn left onto the S marking. The last built stop is completely different from the rest on the line: the reinforced concrete structure from the ’50s recalls the main railway stations. Below, a buffet provides opportunities to rest – which is welcome before tackling the Hárs-hegy ascent. Walking between tracks (children’s railway on the right and tram tracks on the left below) we pass under the shade of old trees before turning right and crossing Nagykovácsi road.

Along the side of Hárs-hegy

We cross the section called “Tótasszony út” amid oaks and beeches, whose name doesn’t have a definite explanation. Folklore tells of a German woman found dead by nearby Swabians, which resulted in the word “todt” (dead) turning into “tótta,” while another story claims a Slovak [Tót] woman gave birth here. An early 19th-century Turisták Lapja mentions a Slovak wife killed out of jealousy.

With moderate climbing, we storm Hárs-hegy among emerging limestone nodules – bypassing the railway station of the same name. Again, we join the tracks (this time from below) as the railway returns with a large curve on the hillside, where it had to be tunneled due to the big loop. The tunnel played a special role during the construction of the Pioneer Railway, as the 2nd phase of the three-section laid track was handed over, and the works were to stop for months. But since only a little was left to fully drill through the hill, after a few weeks’ break the full construction was decided to be finished (up to Hűvösvölgy).

We cross a former sledding slope – a reminder of the early 20th century when winters were still snowy enough for serious winter sports infrastructure in the Buda Hills. At a crossing, we step over the tracks and start climbing by stairs. Charming promenades weave through the mysteriously dense oak forest, which we will soon overlook. On the left-branching S▲ mark, we climb up to the summit of Little Hárs-hegy, where the renowned Makovecz lookout tower named after its designer since 1977 spirals upward. Its two spiral stairs were originally made of sleepers from the children’s railway but were replaced during later renovation. From the upper floor (where caution is needed due to low railings and narrow space), we can overlook the green side of Budapest: our next station, János-hegy, appears in green nearby, but one can also see Széchenyi, Gellért, and Vár hills as well as members of the forest-dominant Hármashatár-hegy group. Beyond the Hárs-hegy summit hide the outer parts of the Buda Hills, and giants like Pilis-tető and Dobogó-kő shine blue in the background.

The hermit of the mine and the Máriaremete lookout

Near the lookout was originally the station of the children’s railway, but steep slopes caused serious difficulties for climbing trains, so the station was closed. Our hike, however, heads in the opposite direction, toward Nagy-Hárs-hegy. Returning to the junction, we keep a straight course and start the summit attack on the S marking. Initially, we stumble on an extremely rocky, ankle-twisting path, then climb steeper on a gravel-covered path. After a sharp right turn, the path momentarily smooths out, and gloomy rocks appear in a dark nook on the hillside. At the end of a short rock corridor, an iron door covers the entrance of Bátori cave, which formed in limestone below the sandstone cap of Hárs-hegy, created by thermal waters emerging along structural fractures, similar to many other caves in Buda. Interestingly, it was naturally open, so the Neolithic people also discovered it, making it an archaeologically significant site. Ore mining occurred in some parts during the Middle Ages, with chisel marks and steps carved in stone found in the 360 m long cave. The cave is named after the hermit (László Bátori) who lived here for 20 years, choosing this place to work quietly and undisturbed. He accomplished the great feat of translating the Bible and also a book about the lives of saints. The hermit life weakened him, so he later returned ill to the Pálos monastery in Budaszentlőrinc in the saddle of the hill, where he soon died. In his honor, a small marble altar was erected in the cave, opened to tourists at the beginning of the 20th century, but it is no longer present.

The cave’s exploration began in the ’50s, and another entrance was opened to remove clay with a cart on the children’s railway track. We cross an upper bridge over the lower entrance ditch, and now aim for the summit on a rocky, difficult path. After a few hairpin turns, we arrive at a lookout tower standing on a sandstone base among large sandstone blocks, made from timber beams. It is named after Károly Kaán, a forest engineer known for afforestation in the Great Plain, who also played an important role in drafting Hungary's first nature protection law and was president of the Hungarian Tourist Association. The upper level of the tower offers one of the most captivating views in the Buda Hills; we watch from a central point among the clodded terrain. In front, János-hegy and Széchenyi-hegy rise steeply over the capital; to the left, the massive forest block of Hármashatár-hegy forms a sharp shape. On clear days, Mátra can be seen in the background, while the Pilis and Visegrád Hills are always visible. Beyond Máriaremete, the outer parts of the Buda Hills line up and the basin of Budakeszi deepens. The alternating city and forest dominate the landscape, which is worth noting as the rest of our hike is characterized by this alternating pattern. (On the side of Hármashatár-hegy, one can easily recognize our destination, the imposing ridge of Apáthy rock.)

Pálos monks in the saddle

Once we’ve had enough of the panorama, continue following the winding, rocky S marking on the narrow path! The trail passes a nicely arranged resting place with a fire pit and views (Csanádi rest), then leads left, descending from the hill. Below, the dense, opaque forest hides the huge quarry from our view, but from the path’s soil protrudes the Hárs-hegyi sandstone. Due to tectonic forces, the fragmented blocks of the Buda Hills forced thermal waters from the deep karst to bubble up, permeating the shallow sea-origin sandstone – their silica content cemented the rock very resistant. Due to its hardness, Hárs-hegyi sandstone was favored in construction and was quarried in several places.

A few benches line the picturesque path, and the cars’ increasing noise and the squeaking of the Children’s Railway wheels announce our approach to Szépjuhászné. This busy saddle point owes its name to an inn that attracted city people from the late 18th to early 20th century, luring visitors while also benefiting from the traffic of the road connecting Budapest and Budakeszi. Looking further back, legend says King Mátyás often visited an attractive shepherd’s wife here, but Queen Beatrix, suspecting the affair, disguised herself to discover and end the liaison – thus the inn got its name. Around the station, a basin park was created during the construction of the Pioneer Railway, and now buffets provide the possibility of a refreshing break with food and drink.

Before Budakeszi road, turn left onto the ᵯ markings of Mária út! The purple L markings branching right lead to the ruins of the Pálos monastery in Budaszentlőrinc. The imposing building was erected after the Tartar invasion on the site of an earlier chapel, longer than 70 meters, connected to a three-nave church. By the 15th century, it was the main monastery of the order and due to later additions became the largest monastery in the kingdom (15,000 square meters) – until it was razed to the ground by the Turks in 1526. Afterwards, it served only as a quarry for nearby constructions, but thanks to 20th-century excavations, the foundations are clearly visible in the small clearing.

Hunting castle around the corner

On the purple ᵯ marking, we walk right under the railway station, then turn right again onto the PT signs. We don’t stay long on the spacious forest walkway’s slope because we take a right onto a gravel, unmarked path joining from the right, then step left onto the Z marking. From here the hike changes character: we walk on the border of inhabited area and forest for some time. Meanwhile, we steadily descend toward the wide valley of Ördög-árok, completely lined with a garden suburb. We avoid a dry ditch filled with trash, which reveals the landforms that the city has otherwise fully covered and smoothed. Later, at the end of a pleasant forest section, we reach houses and walk a long way along the gently bending streets – at one point a huge toothless plot appears on the right, with a wooded and weedy area behind the fence. The overgrown vegetation hides from view an important archaeological find: the ruins of Nyék hunting castle. Although expanded into a real castle in King Mátyás’s time, even Sigismund built smaller hunting lodges here. A building with a loggia and long shape with a view of the animal-filled forest was sought by an amateur historian based on the court historian Bonfini’s notes – his success was due to literally interpreting the instructions unlike others. His precise measurements brought him to private property, where owners believed a castle once occupied the site. When a gardener and a day laborer also told him about old stone wall ruins, he realized his goal. Excavations began afterwards – and although the foundations are nicely outlined in aerial photos, unfortunately the ruin group is in a neglected state.

Ridges and rock arch at the edge of the city

The site of the former Nyék village has long been overgrown by Budapest, whose busy road we cross when approaching the valley bottom. We reach the tram line; from the elevated station, the pointed ridge of Apáthy rock is already visible. For the second time during the hike, we cross Ördög-árok – here the stream flows between stone walls, then is forced into the depths just below to reach the Danube under the city. From here, the road becomes exhausting: we climb steep streets, overcoming stairs, ascending behind the rock. The Z marking turns left, and we walk out to the protruding ridge on a path squeezed between the broken hillside and a fence. From the ridge, a splendid panorama unfolds: opposite are the masses of János-hegy and Széchenyi-hegy dominating the urban landscape, on the right rises Hárs-hegy, between them a topographic corridor opens to the downtown. The iron pillar on the hard dolomite rock was once used for geodetic measurements, and the formation was named after former owners of the area. The tourist trail skirts the cliff on a railing-secured, scenic walkway. A World War II bunker at the top indicates that in other historical situations the view had different utility. Turning back, we can admire the protruding rock ridge from the side, left by structural movements and by solutions rising from the depths that cemented the rock hard.

The path then turns into the forest and reveals a series of geological specialties on the side of Vaskapu-hegy. At one point, the Kőkapu rock arch rises above us: the striking rock passage may have revealed a section of the oldest cave in the Buda Hills, which was earlier filled with kaolinitized volcanic debris (tufa). (The purplish-purple color comes from kaolinite and iron-containing hematite.) The colorful rock gate is often crowded with children as its material offers excellent climbing possibilities. From here, the marking climbs up a somewhat littered forest path past decaying resting places back to Görgényi street, where turning right on the Gyöngyök útja marking, we reach the end point of the hike at our earlier starting place within minutes.